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Old 10-22-2015, 07:54 PM   #41
Mike1357
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This car is in such great condition for the age and milage! I love that you took the time to clean everything before you put the other engine in. There's a special place in my heart for fairly stock super clean Accords.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:55 PM   #42
fleetw00d
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Ruby and Jade in Pensacola last weekend, a quick additional 1,500 miles. They were both white with salt that morning from the trip down even though we managed to route around the snow storm in KY and TN. 7,000 miles now on the new engine, uses virtually no oil, 32+ mpg coming home. Met briefly with SE Girl to deliver some parts, goofed and didn't get a photo with her car.


Last edited by fleetw00d; 08-01-2017 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 06:27 AM   #43
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I didn't even think to get a pic! Maybe next time you come down we can get a photo.
I'm glad I got to see Ruby in person. She's every bit as gorgeous as she is in her photos!

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Ruby and Jade in Pensacola last weekend, a quick additional 1,500 miles. They were both white with salt that morning from the trip down even though we managed to route around the snow storm in KY and TN. 7,000 miles now on the new engine, uses virtually no oil, 32+ mpg coming home. Met briefly with SE Girl to deliver some parts, goofed and didn't get a photo with her car.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #44
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Glad everyone made it down there and back okay. Can't wait until you hit 400k. Ruby is looking amazing after all the work you have done. Keep up the good work!
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:43 PM   #45
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Just missed catching 345,678.9 on the odometer last night.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:19 PM   #46
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Passed 350,000 this afternoon. Unfortunately, she's starting to bubble already along the rear wheel arches - only four years since quarter panel replacement. Not sure what went wrong, but that is probably the most vulnerable area because I couldn't cut the spot welds from the back side, so there were holes all along the wheel well lip that I tried to fill with adhesive, but the body shop may have exposed bare metal there during finishing and painting.

Jan. 14, 2017: Had the surging idle problem. Unfortunately the H23 intake has the FITV on the bottom of the throttle body with the cover facing the firewall. One of the cover screws broke, but I was able to get the piston out, install a new o-ring on it, and reinstall; then put the cover back on with the one remaining screw. I turned the piston in further than it was when I took it out to bring the cold idle down some. I'll see where it goes tomorrow morning after sitting out in the cold. I guess I'll start looking for another valve; I don't think I can get to the screw with a bolt remover.

March 30, 2017: Installed OEM rear upper control arms, Bilstein rear shocks, and Mugen rear shock tower brace today; the shocks raised the rear end some and really stiffened the ride.

August 5, 2017: Almost 356,000 miles. The brake pedal was starting to get soft. Installed OEM master cylinder (3rd in its life?), new front calipers, and three of four OEM brake hoses (was still running the original hoses and calipers - dry as a bone, just figures it was time), right rear will be done tomorrow. Front pads still had sufficient thickness, but both were cracked down the middle - I'll get a new set. I should probably replace the rear wheel cylinders (still original).

August 6, 2017: I wouldn't have expected it with Honda parts. Installed the right rear hose this afternoon, filled the master cylinder, then tried to vacuum bleed at all the wheels. Seemed like I got good fluid at each wheel, but the pedal went right to the floor. Got a helper to operate the pedal while I tried to bleed each wheel under pressure - pedal still goes straight to the floor. Started over, probably should have bench bled the master cylinder first, but I figured the lines were pretty much empty anyway from removing the hoses. Closed all the bleed screws and tried to bleed the MC by cracking the lines there, got nothing that seemed like the ports were being pressurized. Disconnected the lines at the MC, installed short lines with hoses back to the reservoir, I only got fluid from the rear port after pushing the pedal who knows how many times. I guess I better find my receipt.

Aug. 15, 2017: Honda gave me a new MC. Bench bled it first this time; got good flow from both ports. Installed on car over the weekend, bled the snot out of all corners. Drove it yesterday and it still seemed soft, but would pump up hard with the engine off. I figured it had time for any air, particularly in the front calipers and the lines to the MC to settle to the top. Got home this evening and compressed both calipers to push fluid (and any air at the top of the lines at the MC) back into the master cylinder. Pumped the brake until I got a hard pedal, then vacuum bled the calipers. Good hard pedal now running or not.

Nov. 11, 2017: Rolled through 360,000 Thursday. Oil change, transmission fluid change, new plugs yesterday.

Nov. 29, 2017: The wagon set a code 7 (throttle position sensor) and 9 (cyl #1 position sensor) Friday. The car is in Pensacola; my son and daughter will be coming home from school in a couple weeks - I didn't want them having a problem on the trip so I wound up taking a replacement throttle body and distributor down. Left Friday afternoon, Pensacola at 2:15 am Saturday, up at 8; breakfast, bought a gasket, replaced parts by 11; had lunch with son and daughter, played some basketball with daughter, left Pensacola about 4:30, arrived home at 6:30 am Sunday. Ruby now pushing 362,600; front end vibration under acceleration/uphill tells me I need to check the axles.

Dec. 18, 2017: First time I can remember, Ruby stranded me at work last Thursday - couldn't hear the fuel pump running. Swapped in extra main relay (had just recently resoldered the one in the car) to no avail. Finally recovered it on Saturday; troubleshooting led to the ECM. Installed a spare I had. Anyone know someone who repairs ECMs? If not, I'm in the market for another spare 37820-PT6-A12.

Jan. 9, 2018: Got my third warranty axle on the RF on Saturday. Back in the day (2005) had a local shop install axles at about 180k. First one was bad and had to be replaced 3 days later. Next one at about 255k. This one at 363k. I'm still paying the labor, but man, it was 10 degrees on Saturday and the garage is full of stuff.

Mar. 18, 2018: Hit 365,000 about a week ago. Will need at least a muffler soon, probably do the B pipe as well (nuts and studs at the B pipe to muffler joint are in pretty bad shape). Both B pipe and muffler are OEM transferred over from the 93 EX I wrecked in 2012.

May 8, 2018: Rolled through 366,666.6 the other day.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 05-08-2018 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:59 AM   #47
wtfisafleek
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My '91 is coming up on 385K and it looks it! Yours on the other hand looks like it has less than 100.
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:29 PM   #48
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Been racking up miles. Hit 370,000 miles Aug. 13, then had to accompany my kids to school in FL because I sent them in the coupe because I kept the wagon home to get some work done it. 371,000 Thursday afternoon in Pensacola. Closing on 372,000 from the trip back home.

April 5, 2019: 378,000 this morning. Got a picture the other day at 377,777.7

Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-05-2019 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 02:09 PM   #49
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Picked up my custom shift boot this morning. Closest color material they had to match the door panels. Used a scrap to line the tray also. Tan stitching to match the interior. Any one know how to restore the chrome on the collar (between the boot and knob)? I tried to peel the chrome off so at least it was a consistent color, but that didn't work too well. Simple solution was to cover it with electrical tape.

20190427_115126 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:18 PM   #50
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Is the collar removable, to easily work with by itself? There are some rattle can chrome paints that aren't half bad, and I'm sure it would be easy to pull off with such a small piece.

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Old 04-27-2019, 08:22 PM   #51
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Yeah the collar is removable; well, the boot has to be removed from the collar. I've seen the chrome paints, but I hated to buy a whole can for this little project. It was also very difficult trying to get all the old peeling chrome off, so it wasn't going to be a very smooth surface to paint. The black tape matches the knob (and required virtually no prep work!).

There is a groove in the collar for a zip strip to hold the boot to the collar. There is one corner where the groove is deeper for the zip connector. I didn't have a long enough zip strip; I used two end to end and had to make the groove deeper in another corner to accommodate the second connector.

I have to go back in to do a little more trimming of the piece on the tray, the cup holder pinches when it is pushed in.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-28-2019 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:03 PM   #52
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Only 2nd time in 23 years she stranded me today. Forgot my badge for work, headed home, died twice during left turns in intersections and was able to immediately restart. 3rd time was not the charm. I was on a narrow two lane road without a shoulder, got lucky there was a gravel spot under an interstate overpass. Spare main relay didn't help. Only 4 miles from home; had to get it towed.

Troubleshooting led to the fuel pump connector socket - it looked a little fried compared to the level sensor sockets. I was able to remove the socket from the connector, clean up the contact area, bend the little tab up that contacts the pin and stuff a small piece of sheet metal under that tab to increase the contact pressure with the pin. It ran for a while in the driveway (too lazy to move two other vehicles to take it for a drive); I'll to have note if she starts better now, it has seemed just a little sluggish for a while.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 07-15-2019 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:07 PM   #53
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glad to hear it was a quick, cheap fix. 2 times in 23 years that is awesome, I know I have been strained way more times then that with mine.
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Old 06-24-2019, 11:25 AM   #54
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Been working fine since the repair. Not as prone to stall when engaging clutch in first gear.
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:57 PM   #55
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It's always something - engine died on me today. Sounded like there was compression on only one cylinder when cranking to try to restart. I got it home using a tow dolly. Confirmed cam doesn't rotate when cranking. Pulled valve cover, belt is loose on the cam pulley so it is likely broken. Makes me wonder if the timing belt was really changed before I bought the engine like he said it was. I've only put about 50,000 miles on it. I'll use my leak down tester tomorrow to check for bent valves - maybe I got lucky.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:03 PM   #56
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That really sucks. I wish you the best on it. Hopefully you got lucky and it didn't bend any valves.
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Old 07-28-2019, 02:58 PM   #57
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No luck. Belt was indeed broken. #1 didn't leak, #3 just a little, #4 a lot, didn't bother with #2.

I'll ask this question here and in the technical section (more people may see it there).

Are the oil wells in the head for the cam supposed to drain at all? I noticed today when checking cylinder leakage that there wasn't much oil in them and the cam seemed hard to turn. How far does the car need to be tilted forward or back for them to drain? I had it on a tow dolly (front end high) and climbed some hills getting it home - think that would be enough to mostly drain them? I may fill them with oil now that it is sitting level and see if it drains. I'll see the condition of the cam bearings when I pull the rocker assembly
and camshaft.

Last edited by fleetw00d; 07-28-2019 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:14 PM   #58
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There are a few places in the cylinder head where the oil will pool, and only 6 main drains. So oil remaining in the cylinder head is normal.
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Old 07-28-2019, 05:26 PM   #59
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Ah man. That's sad to hear. Do you think the belt was changed like the individual you bought it from stated? Kinda crappy if not.

No idea about the oil wells. Like you said, it's all in the condition of the cam caps and head bearing surfaces when you remove the caps and cam.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:08 PM   #60
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There are a few places in the cylinder head where the oil will pool, and only 6 main drains. So oil remaining in the cylinder head is normal.
I thought is was normal, that's why it struck me as odd that there wasn't much oil in the wells/troughs under the cam.

July 29, 2019: Pulled the rocker assembly and camshaft. There was oil puddled in the well/trough, but not as much as I would normally expect.

20190729_191648 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

The first journal looks a little scored, didn't feel it with my fingernail (yeah, a little out of focus). Can the journals be polished a little? New part clearance is 0.002 - 0.0035 inches; service limit is 0.006 inches. I'll have to take the spare head apart and see what it looks like.

20190729_212902 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Aug. 2, 2019: Stripped nut/bolt head sockets to the rescue. Someone must have really cranked on the tensioner nut; it started to strip even using a flare nut wrench. Pulled the belts and water pump off. There is a retainer plate on the balance shaft seal which is an indication that the belts were actually done at some point.

Aug. 9, 2019: Got the head back from the shop yesterday. Eight bent valves (6 ex, 2 in) and the cam was a little crooked. I'm not sure the crooked cam was because the belt broke, or a contributor; I wouldn't think you could transmit enough force through a valve (particularly when it is only contacting the piston on an edge) to bend the cam. Luckily I had a spare head I could steal the valves from and its cam was straight. I have another spare cam that I may have checked out and go ahead and rebuild this second head as a completed spare. Reassembly starts this evening.

Head back on:
Message_1565399708125 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

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