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Old 01-11-2007, 03:49 PM   #21
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man i love this DIY!
thnx
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:24 PM   #22
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If you tighten the fit while cold what will happen?

I just threw some carb cleaner and snugged it pretty tight. I don't see a difference besides my acceleration pedal tighter and my car coming to a stop in drive, but that I think is brakes riding my rotors.
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Old 04-05-2007, 07:07 PM   #23
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Just wondering.... would an EGR valve from an F22 fit on an H22?
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:42 PM   #24
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Boosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.
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Old 04-06-2007, 10:44 PM   #25
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Kool! Thanks
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Old 04-07-2007, 02:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 407accord
If you tighten the fitv while cold what will happen?

I just threw some carb cleaner and snugged it pretty tight. I don't see a difference besides my acceleration pedal tighter and my car coming to a stop in drive, but that I think is brakes riding my rotors.
let me try this again
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Old 10-23-2007, 07:02 PM   #27
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Wanted to revive this...I've been having the up down idle problem myself.

I followed all said repairs...idle still went up and down.

So the culprit? The idle was set too high, turned that screw down and that fixed it. I followed the recommended repair...and the idle was still too low with the IACV plugged in. Raised it a hair...now steady at 900, 700 after it settles.

Still...I would not rule out completely all that cleaning...my IACV did need some cleaning on the screen...and I already regularly clean my TB...that alone can cause idle issues.

I did also screw in the other valve...but it didn't change anything on the idle.
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:26 PM   #28
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So you have the A6 manifold then, cuz if I'm mistaken the air boost only came with the A6?
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Old 12-21-2007, 05:28 PM   #29
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bringing this thread back because i found it extremely helpful today since i have been having problems with my idle the past couple of weeks so i pulled all of the said items and cleaned them with carb cleaner and replaced i also changed my PCV valve and i learned my intake manifold coolant lines had been bypassed so i bought new line and reran everything and now everything is A-OK
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:29 PM   #30
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just like to say again...another likely culprit is idle screw...mine backed out 3 times in like 2 months
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:49 PM   #31
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IF you have that airboost valve capped off like his was, anyone ,it will make it idle crazy when you first let off the gas...I didnt have any problems when it was just idle'n..But it should'nt be capped off..Leave it open or remove the hole thing with a block off plate.....I capped mine off and ..Like i would push the clutch to shift and it would rev up before it would go down...Oh .And should not be hooked up to vacum on the intake mani...It should be hooked up before the T.B..

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Old 05-14-2010, 07:37 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto View Post
Good stuff Torqstr

Just a couple things:
Isn't removing the ECU backup fuse after already removing the battery cable redundant? I'm pretty sure there isn't a backup battery on that circuit...then again I don't know everything.

But I do know that the EGR function info is incorrect. You're describing something else, can't remember the name. The EGR does just as its name says (exhaust gas recirculation) when the engine is at a high enough temp, and at certain throttle conditions.
Regardless, the procedure was the important thing, and I think it was great. :TU:
u can never have too many safety features, better safe than sorry i say
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Old 05-30-2010, 04:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torqstr View Post
has my writeup actually helped anyone fix their erratic idle? just curious.
Yes, I did everything u said and it turned out my problem was the air boost valve. Thanks for the write up!! My car runs great!!!
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:30 PM   #34
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Old 07-16-2012, 03:40 PM   #35
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My car idles around 1200-1500 and surges from 1200 to 2000. Also you can hit the gas and it jumps passed 2000. Not to mention when you are barley hitting the gas you can hear the motor sucking for air even when im not touching the throttle, then the car will jump and rev the rpms again.

If im coming to a stop when ever i put the clutch in (at low rpms) the rpms jump and it too sounds like its still sucking air hard when im not giving it any throttle.

im going to take the IACV out when i get home and try cleaning that mother sucker..
I have a f22a1, never noticed anything uncapped. Ill have to look into that deeper..
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:59 PM   #36
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F*cking Idle Surge!

So the ol Accord would surge when it was cold. Not a big deal because it would have to be in the single digits before it did this and only when in nuteral, in gear and idel not a big deal. Today in 90+ degree heat it came on with a vengence!
The car when started jumps to 2000 rpms than stays there for 15 or so seconds then the surge starts. Surging fron 1200 to 2000 rpms!
When the problem of surging in cold weather came on I did the IACV and FITV surge remedy solution and it really didn't accomplish much, so I did it again today and also checked the function of the IACV selenoid which operates normally. No help. I'm going to change the EGR Valve tomorrow. Now here is my Question.
Whwn I installed my AEM cold air kit the instuctions instructed the installer(me) to disconnect the vacuum line from the boost air valve and plug the manifold connection and install the little foam filter on the boost valve connection. I'm wondering if I should hook this back up to apply vacuum back to it?
This is really pissing me off. I've got one car with the engine out on the garage floor, and now this one started its shananagins. I'm about ready to push them into the street poor gas on them and give the local fire department some practice!
No CEL no Vacuum leaks just that F*cking surging Idle!
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #37
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Found it. Intake manifold leak!
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:03 PM   #38
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Found it. Intake manifold leak!
Hey iceman, what part of the IM was the leak on?
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:08 PM   #39
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Thanks alot for this thread, after months i finally was able to figure out the intake manifold gasket was the problem, fixed it yesterday and the idleing problem is finally gone!!! =)
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:13 PM   #40
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Bring this old thread back up, since it's still a very useful DIY post...

To add to it, whenever you do these repairs (Except for bleeding the coolant), you have to reset your ECU (Disconnect battery completely for at least 5 minutes, then reconnect your battery). Once you reconnect your battery, start your car and let the car idle without touching the throttle at all. Let the car do a full cooling cycle, which is when the fans kick on. Once the cycle is complete (The cooling fan shuts off), then you turn the car off, start it again and you're good to drive.
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