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manual rack and pinion?

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    #16
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ht=rack+pinion


    Took me less than 2 minutes to find it....


    Credits to Oscar del Toro (PR CB7) on this one....
    JDM Parts for sale

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      #17
      thats the one i was looking for
      FRIENDS
      DONT LET
      FRIENDS
      ROLL ON
      ROTA'S

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        #18
        Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
        Can you measure the difference in diameter of the two for me? That is what I am interested in. If there is a substantial difference in the diameter of the pinion and rack shafts. Then I may look into doing something similar as well.

        Might look into just doing a pinion shaft swap if there is no significant strength advantage.
        No prob.
        Project wagon! Much excite! 2018!

        That Sedan. Purchased '07-->Swap'd-->Tuck'd-->Wreck'd-->May '16

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          #19
          Actually welding on a material hardens it, so a welded outer tie rod or extended stud inner tie rod would in most cases be stronger than a casted one.

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            #20
            Welded beads will be harder but the hardness on the rest of material remains the same. There will be two different hardness in one piece which could lead to a crack.

            I have seen a few examples of such in the past.

            Tie-rods are forged. Welding them may weaken the piece. I will not do that to my car.
            Last edited by oyajicool; 07-13-2013, 03:05 AM.
            A&P-IA

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              #21
              There is more to welding these things than just whipping out your little MIG welder and doing a pass. Depending on the materials being used and the surrounding atmosphere you may have to preheat and post heat the weld joint. Also you will have to ensure that your filler is the proper tensile strength as well.

              To say welding these would make them harder does not always mean stronger. You could actually weaken the base metal if you use an improper welding procedure. It really depends on what type of welding you are talking about as well, GMAW, GTAW or SMAW. No matter what, following proper welding procedures should be strictly adhered to when you are talking about a cars critical suspension parts.
              MR Thread
              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

              by Chappy, on Flickr

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                #22
                Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                Welded beads will be harder but the hardness on the rest of material remains the same. There will be two different hardness in one piece which could lead to a crack.

                I have seen a few examples of such in the past.

                Tie-rods are forged. Welding them may weaken the piece. I will not do that to my car.
                Agree with you oya. Putting that much heat into the metal will weaken it. Hence why one reason its bad to cut springs. Or grind something for too long. Metal is not near as simple as we all think. Talk to somone who really knows what they are doing welding wise and they will tell you all about grain structure etc. I don't know near enough to give a better idea though. Just my .02
                IG: H2wagon
                https://www.youtube.com/@H2wagon

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                  #23
                  Relocate battery to the trunk. Then go to orielly and get hydraulic lines made long enough to go to the back of the car get one fitting on the end to fit in the rack. And the other fitting on the end to fit in this http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-ELECTRI...#ht_247wt_1093 I have been thinking of doing this for a long time. And it would work rather well and it would delete the PS reservoir as well. Just have to have about 500 bucks to do it.

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