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jdm92_accorn : 1992 Accord LX

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    I think I might try something new. I'm debating on a f20b with skunk2 pro 2's, xcessive intake, 70mm tb, logic header, 3" exhaust and a T2W4 with .787 5th and 5.15 final drive. Then drop that in my dx. I bet that combo would be solid for low 13's on pump.

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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      There was a f20b swapped hatch locally that only had intake and exhaust and ran 13's with a stock f22 trans. His power was actually just a little lower than yours. Im sure if you had slicks and launch control set higher... Mid 13's is pretty reasonable.

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        I like my sohc nonvtec power. I just have always wanted to see what all the vtec fuss is about, lol. Or I might do 4.64 final and put it in the dd. Then I can remove the balance shafts on the single cam and put it in the dx. With higher compression, no shafts, and a level 3 cam it'd be sick. And the short stroke f20b would be so smooth and quiet.
        Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 11-02-2013, 12:01 PM.

        MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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          Why not just use f20b pistons and go back to an f22 block with 0.04 head basket to drop compression down to a nice 12:1? That mixed with your future level 3 cam should put you up in the 230-240hp range

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            Too much work for minimal gain. If I was after the stroke I'd just put a f20b head on a f23 block with k24a2 pistons. And if I were to do that I'd just as well use a pde stamped h22 head for the larger valves. The idea is less stroke means a higher safer rpm and less vibration. And what it lacks in torque it can be geared to fix that. Look at the new si. It weighs 200lbs more than my car and feels lighter with less torque (50wtq+). All due to gearing. And with a f23 accord 5th and 5.15 on a T2W4, it'd pull off 112mph at 8600 in 4th and in 5th you could cruise 75mph @ 3700rpm and 3k @ 60mph just like a stock M2S4. I'm really suprised nobody seems that excited about a 13sec cb7 with a f-series sohc.
            Last edited by jdm92_accorn; 11-02-2013, 02:40 PM.

            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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              Oh Im stoked for ya... I know that's been a goal for quite some time.

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                Displacement tho... u can't gear up displacement or bigger valves

                I think you should go big as hell... H22 with a knife-edged + balanced F22 crank and lighter higher comp pistons if you can. Obv it will cost a bit, but then you will see what VTEC is about.

                Or do a sleeved F22A with 90mm pistons. Dont do the F20B, our cars are too damn heavy


                Originally posted by lordoja
                im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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                  I'm looking for something fun, affordable and the F20B is both. Plus it'll make more torque than most stock F22's. Plus with gearing it'll be fine for my dd. I plan to go big boy on the toy. Stock 97mm stroke with 90mm bore on a f23 block. Then I can do 145mm rods and get a 2.5 with 1.49 r/s ratio. I'm telling you civic si's run high 13's at 2 liters. I'd imagine with 220whp with good suspension and gearing it'll be fun enough.

                  MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                    Just a bump to move this back to the top

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                      Wow that is amazing that you're putting that much down for an all motor F series!

                      With my manual J series 3.5L I made 245WHP and 232WTQ You're not that far away from how much I make.

                      If only you have funds.....fully built F series would pull like no other....

                      Yes my name is Dang, Don't use in vain
                      1992 Honda Accord EX (Coupe/Bordeaux/Auto)
                      1992 Honda Accord EX (Coupe/Bordeaux/H22A MT)
                      2008 Honda Accord EXL (Coupe/SanMarino/6spd)

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                        My brother and I were talking about a few things and I have put some thoughts into the next time I go to the track. I've been thinking about removing the rear bumper and rear seat assembly to drop weight mainly in the rear and reduce some drag. Less weight on the rear will give the effects of a stiffer spring and less weight in the rear is still less weight over all. The goal is to hit 13.8's

                        MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                          But a fully dressed accord tho lol. Ever thought of an underbody tray? Prolly be better for aero than removing the bumper, which I feel would cause terrible turbulence and low pressure in the back because then your rear would be like a flat wall.
                          blackROSE Member, with a focus on VIP Style

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                            Ive thought about using sheets of abs to build an undertray so I can keep weight down. I really need to bite the bullet and get that T2W4 and some stiffer reat springs. Then it might be able to manage 13's on the 205's

                            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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                              See that... I bump it and there's already 5 new posts

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                                Originally posted by bigpoppa694lyfe View Post
                                See that... I bump it and there's already 5 new posts
                                thankyou

                                MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

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