F22B1 Will Not Start...

[djcaz_aom]

So taking a guess, I am thinking you are referring to fuse # 2. You have the PGMFI system, ELD, main relay, engine mount, Alternator and the fan control on that circuit. There might be another, but it's something like the auto transmission sensors.

It starts off BLK/YEL and goes to the under-hood fuse box.

It is pin number three at the Alternator.

That's what I know off the top of my head. There are quite a few harness connections for this circuit. Now that I think of it, now is the time to break out the Helms.

[djcaz_aom]

Just to add, sensors with BLK/YEL:

IAB, IAC and EGR.

IAB - pink/blu
IAC - wht
EGR - pink and red/grn

[DGOfTheCentury]

Update: Wow you guys all have something to offer. To be specific it was the #2 fuse yes. The car started till today I came home to move her and in the mist of doing so the car died...like no longer start died. Can turn it over all day with my new battery but nothing. Went to get some gas because I thought that was the issue, that was a waste. I no longer hear the fuel pump, the #2 fuse is not blown. The main relay looks fine visually. Battery voltage is 12.56-8...when the car would start and run the voltage would drop to a steady 12.08 via multimeter. I did find tht the alternators harness plug does not necessarily seat and clip in. I think I am experiencing charging issues overall.

I love this car, but honestly I'm starting to get upset, because this problem is not nearly as obvious...electrical can be that way. I am going to keep going as long as my budget can support this build. Hopefully you guys can help me along the way lol.

For all the newcomers to this thread. This car is a f22b1 swap with a f22a4 engine harness. Car has starting issues. I suspect the fuel pump is my issue because when I turn the key, a 12.58v battery becomes 12.05v which to me is a significant drop...it would bring my old battery to 10v from 12.56v...my new battery has a higher start amp...ecu is a P0A-A01...i should also note that when the car would start, it could not go higher than 3k rpm or it would sputter like in is running out of gas.

[DGOfTheCentury]

If you're blowing the proper rated fuse, it is a problem. If you continue to use the 40 amp fuse, something else in the line is likely to blow/burn (maybe literally).

The higher rate was supposed to be temporary, but every time I tried a smaller rate it would always blow. I suspect my fuel pump is drawing way too much power. The main relay is a modern duralast style which looks fine. The fuse was blown before I replaced the relay.

Update: removed what I thought was the front cooling temp sensor and the intake cooling sensor. Also removed the connector under the distributor, these are three green connectors that look very similar. Now the car starts faster than before, so I believe I had those backwards. However, the car only runs for a little while then eventually turns off.

I believed something was wrong with the alternator, so I took it to both autozone and to advance auto parts to have it checked...passed both. But ik the battery is not getting a charge because the voltage is too low on start up. Now I suspect something with my wiring.
Does anyone know if the pigtail for a 91 accord and 94 are different? The 4 pin alternator pigtail. Mines does not seat like the ones at auto zone and advance auto seated.

Today I am going to check my grounds. There should be a 12 voltage read from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternator housing right?