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need some expert advice on my swap! H22A1, USDM P13, bogs and bucks

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    #16
    I haven't done a compression test, ill do one next time im up there. I just don't want to wash my cylinders down with fuel more than I already am. All marks line up at cyl 1 TDC (drivers, timing side) with arrows up. I even made a "Viewing hole" in the bottom cover to check the crank and its right on the money. I will try also using the guts out of my F22 dizzy to see if that makes a difference, since all I haven't replaced at this point is the dizzy and the injectors which im hoping to not have to touch again

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      #17
      when you do the compression test you can unplug the resistor box so the injectors won't spray.
      another good visual test when finding TDC, take the spark plug out and put something that will fit thru the hole in and extend far enough out so that you can watch it rise and fall with the cylinder. That'll help confirm what grumpy was saying about being 180 off.

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        #18
        I actually used a long screwdriver in the spark plug holes as well to confirm. I do not believe its 180 out, or it wouldn't even fire at all. When I did the valve adjustment the lobes were facing their up positions with piston tdc, which are more diagonally opposed rather than straight up like \o o/

        forgot I could just unplug the resister box lol. compression test hopefully if I can get up there today, along with some fresh grounds and f22 distributor guts... not sure what else I can do but I'm just stunned over the fact I cant get it to run after all the work I put in to rebuilding that h22.
        Last edited by RabbittCB7; 06-19-2019, 02:27 PM.

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          #19
          You're right that if it was 180 out it probably wouldn't fire at all. It sounds more like the cams are off a tooth or more, if it was mechanical. Otherwise it's gremlins in your wiring

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            #20
            SO I went out there, added some better grounds and double checked sensor wiring. Seems like everything is where it should be but its kindof impossible to know without a harness guide. Theres a few plug ends not connected from the accord harness, I think some of them were for the A/T. I don't have any CEL with the PT3 but when I plug in the P13, I have a code 21 vtec. Havent been able to sort that out. I had it barely "running" earlier and then I took the dizzy off to test another one off my buddy's H22 parts pile, but the 8 pin connector wouldn't plug in to the 8 pin on my accord harness. I put my old distributor back on and it wouldn't even start, or try to. I confirmed there is spark, and there is fuel, and when the engine is turning over you can hear it has lots of compression. I took the spark plugs out again and they were already soaked with fuel. I'm starting to think its a distributor problem, can I take the accord distributor guts and put them in the H22 distributor? both are external coil. I'm not sure what else to check since I've already gone over everything else a handful of times.

            my cams line up to each others marks perfectly , which is why I'm inclined to believe the timing is OK. Correct me if I'm wrong but a code 21 would put the P13 into limp mode, correct? I need to know what would cause a code 21

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              #21
              What numbers did you get when you did the compression test?
              Sounds like you forgot to unplug the resistor box if the plugs were soaked again.
              There might be something to the fact that swapping back and forth between distributors wouldn't let you start it... maybe the wires are loose or broken...who knows.
              Electrical work takes patience.

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                #22
                Yes a code 21 would go into limp mode. You can put the electrical guys of an f22 in a H22a housing yes. But you can swap shafts as the shafts are different. I swapped my H22a dizzy guts for my f22 dizzy and everything lines up fine.

                Did it start on p13 Ecu? The motor should start even if vtec isn’t working. Have you done a compression test yet? If you have fuel and spark then the only thing left is timing and compression. You said you double checked timing so look into compression. 40psi can sound like 180 psi so going of noise doesn’t really confirm anything. How do you have your vtec wired up?
                ~Nick~
                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                  #23
                  I found some troubleshooting flowcharts for the H22a1 which is nice, and I ordered a new TD61u Dizzy , it will be here Monday. hopefully I can fix MIL 21 at the same time. I didn't do an actual compression test, I'll do that next time I'm there. I have the Vtec Sol to signal ground and Press Sw to ECU and engine ground. P13 is being used again, still no glimmer of a start.
                  Last edited by RabbittCB7; 06-20-2019, 07:49 PM.

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                    #24
                    Which pin did you run the vtec wire and the pressure switch? Should be a4 for vtec solenoid and d6 for pressure switch.
                    ~Nick~
                    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
                      Which pin did you run the vtec wire and the pressure switch? Should be a4 for vtec solenoid and d6 for pressure switch.
                      I ran wires from ECU pins A4 and D6 to the pressure sensor and solenoid but I couldn't figure out which one on the solenoid is supposed to go to ground, and the wires are just hanging out in the engine bay disconnected. I tested it both ways but still had the code. The colors aren't right because I didn't have a pre-existing connector on my harness for VTEC, so I snipped a green connector that looks like a coolant sensor connector and used it since it seems to be extra (Dunno why I have extra connectors but everything is plugged in to the right location and double checked with a DVM). The thermostat housing has a temp sensor that doesn't have a plug , but I'm not getting any codes. There's another one on the water elbow and its plugged in and gives me the temp gauge. I remember cleaning the VTEC solenoid assembly and fitting it with fresh gaskets, haven't tested it yet if it clicks when given 12v. Hopefully the new distributor gets rid of the lumpiness? Only part that I haven't ruled out

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                        #26
                        You can bypass the pressure switch all together. All you have to do is tap d6 into a4 and that switch will constantly see a power and a ground. I ran my setup this way and never had issues.
                        ~Nick~
                        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                        Comment


                          #27
                          does that mean run A4 to the solenoid and splice D6 in to it? so they both go to the solenoid? Will that get rid of the CEL?

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                            #28
                            I had the single wire from the vtec solenoid go to a4. I then took one of those wire tap clamps and ran a wire from the tap clamps to d6. HAmotorsports breaks it down more.
                            https://www.hamotorsports.com/vtec-p...ng-bypass.html

                            I’m not sure it will get rid of the code 21, I know it will for code 22 which is the pressure switch code. But it’s worth a shot.

                            Also found this vtec flow chart. This would be my next step
                            https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid...rk%22-1812135/

                            Also I’m wondering since you don’t have the connector connected at the thermostat if this could be messing with it. As VTEC won’t engage unless the engine is up to operating temps and I don’t think the Ecu reads from that plug. But you never know.
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Thanks for the advice, I'll hook my vtec up as you mentioned and see how it goes. I'll also see about wiring in that temp sensor by the t-stat. Currently waiting on my front step for a distributor and then hopefully I'm going out to work on it

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                                #30
                                Eureka

                                So, I went out there yesterday. Still haven't been able to get rid of that code 21. HOWEVER, I took out my resistor spark plugs and put in the old non resister type, with all plugs out I turned the engine for a while to dry out the fuel. I tested my fuel pressure and it checked out, I changed the fuel filter, and I listened to the injectors with a screwdriver. Inj. 3 was not clicking, and 4 was clicking kinda weak. I turned the key with all systems enables, and it fired up instantly (In a tractor like fashion) I wiggled Inj. 4 and it went from running on 2cyl to 3cyl, injector 3 was not clicking at all, and it would explain the "wet" cylinder that I discovered when purchasing the motor from the junkyard. Ive changed EVERYTHING in this car except the injectors, fuel pump, and body related stuff. I'm going to install a fresh run of injectors and I am confident that will solve the lumpy idle, and bring my CB7 H22 to life BABAY! still gots to figure out vtec. I have A4 and D6 running to the solenoid, bypassing the pressure switch, still presenting the code. If I apply 12v to the solenoid, it clicks normally. So WTH?

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