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Installing H&R race Springs how to tell when middle shock bolt is tight

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    Installing H&R race Springs how to tell when middle shock bolt is tight

    So I'm ditching the cheap coilovers because I picked up a set of H&R race springs for $75. I'm wondering how to tell when the middle shock bolt is tight. Here is a picture of what mine looks like right now and I can get it even tighter...

    I'm going to install them how it looks right now so please let me know if it's right.

    #2
    Repair manual dictates 22 ft/lb for front and rear damper rod nut.
    [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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      #3
      Yaa... just practice on another bolt if needed.

      But if you're curious... there are such fancy tools. I've never used one or seen them.

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        #4
        Man, one of those tools would've come in handy!

        Do you have the spring compressed? It's much easier to do when the spring isn't fighting you.






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          #5
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          Man, one of those tools would've come in handy!

          Do you have the spring compressed? It's much easier to do when the spring isn't fighting you.
          I didn't have a spring compressor. I've never actually used one before. When i lower a car i just wrap the spring and shock assembly real tight with a towel and aim it at something solid. (Not the wall) i just tightened the shock bolts as tight as i could get them. I'm getting new shocks soon anyways so i figured it'll be alright. I will be checking torque that's on them though. The way my car drives is night and day. It feels so much better.

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            #6
            That's how I did it the first time myself. Not smart, but we're alive!

            I always just tightened it as much as I could. My torque wrench is crap, so I never use it. I never had any issue. Doing it properly is always the best method, especially with things that can cause you to lose control if it fails. However, from personal experience, "as tight as I could get it" worked just fine for me in the past.






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              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              That's how I did it the first time myself. Not smart, but we're alive!

              I always just tightened it as much as I could. My torque wrench is crap, so I never use it. I never had any issue. Doing it properly is always the best method, especially with things that can cause you to lose control if it fails. However, from personal experience, "as tight as I could get it" worked just fine for me in the past.
              I just started a new thread with this question but I am trying to get an answer as quick as I can so I figured I would post it in this threat to I'm 99% positive that I put the shocks back together incorrectly I wasn't paying attention when I originally installed the coilovers on how it came apart so if somebody could direct me to exploded view of the shock other than what's in the Haynes manual I would greatly appreciate it if it's making a really loud noise in the back I'm going to try taking them apart again tonight but I want to get it back together correctly this time thank you so much

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                #8
                I can't seem to get it to load on my phone at the moment, but hondaautomotiveparts.com should have an exploded view. I use that site more for info than actual shopping!






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                  #9
                  youll run out of threads, then pink knuckle it. were nylock nuts supplied? the technical spec is like 14 - 22 ft pounds. covered by good n tight.

                  the oem damper is a wee bit different, but hope this helps


                  and


                  rear

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                    youll run out of threads, then pink knuckle it. were nylock nuts supplied? the technical spec is like 14 - 22 ft pounds. covered by good n tight.

                    the oem damper is a wee bit different, but hope this helps


                    and


                    rear
                    So I have everything right except I don't have the rubber pieces between the top and bottom of the spring in the metal bracket so I guess that could be what it is either that or just because my shocks are completely blown which I wouldn't doubt. I did have the rubber pieces that are cone-shaped a backwards butt we'll see thank you so much the diagram is exactly what I needed

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                      #11
                      If you had stock shocks slammed on generic coilover sleeves, I can pretty much guarantee that they are blown. You're going to want to replace them, as blown shocks will seriously degrade your car's ability to handle and stop. Especially in an emergency, when you need it to do those things the most!

                      The only easily found shocks that will handle H&R Race will be Koni Sport (Yellows) or Tokico Illuminas. You can probably find the Konis on sale still. Those are the better of the two anyway. You'd be smart to get those ASAP. If you're on a tight budget, pick up some cheap-o Gabriel, Monroe, or (the better option) KYB "quick struts", which are a pre-assembled spring/shock combo. Basically stock replacement, but it'll make your car safe to drive. Once you can afford the Konis, sell the quick struts to someone else that needs them.






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                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        If you had stock shocks slammed on generic coilover sleeves, I can pretty much guarantee that they are blown. You're going to want to replace them, as blown shocks will seriously degrade your car's ability to handle and stop. Especially in an emergency, when you need it to do those things the most!

                        The only easily found shocks that will handle H&R Race will be Koni Sport (Yellows) or Tokico Illuminas. You can probably find the Konis on sale still. Those are the better of the two anyway. You'd be smart to get those ASAP. If you're on a tight budget, pick up some cheap-o Gabriel, Monroe, or (the better option) KYB "quick struts", which are a pre-assembled spring/shock combo. Basically stock replacement, but it'll make your car safe to drive. Once you can afford the Konis, sell the quick struts to someone else that needs them.
                        And that it's exactly what my plan is. Koni yellows. I only had the coil overs for 2months but I'm positive my shocks are blown. When i compress then they don't come back up..at least at such a low rate i can't see it. Lol.. I drive like a grandma because of that. It's my only car or i would just park it till i got the Koni's.

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                          #13
                          Drive it as little as possible, then. Even at low speeds, that's a ton and a half of steel that you might not be able to control. I always use the example of a kid chasing a ball into the street. If you slam on your brakes and your wheels start bouncing up and down, you're not going to be able to stop or swerve to avoid that kid. Get Konis in there as soon as you can, and drive the car as carefully and sparingly as possible.






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            Drive it as little as possible, then. Even at low speeds, that's a ton and a half of steel that you might not be able to control. I always use the example of a kid chasing a ball into the street. If you slam on your brakes and your wheels start bouncing up and down, you're not going to be able to stop or swerve to avoid that kid. Get Konis in there as soon as you can, and drive the car as carefully and sparingly as possible.
                            Yeah i only go to work and back...it's 3 exits up the freeway. In the morning it's a ghost town and when i get off I'm in bumper to bumper traffic... I completely understand what you're saying though and in a little over a week the new shocks will be in it. After completely disassembling the rear shocks and putting them back together according to the diagram with the same results..i know for certain the shocks are toast. Thanks again as always for everyone's help.

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                              #15
                              It's crazy that there was no noise with the cheapo coil overs...then i install some above average springs i get all sorts of noise.. That just proves that all these kids completely slammed on there frames with even cheaper ebay coil overs and straight pipes flying around town are freaking idiots.... I wasn't slammed and i can imagine how bad it would've been if i was...its just stupid...

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