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Old 06-04-2019, 10:30 AM   #581
Rilas
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No worries man. Also just take the valve body off the rack. It's just the 2 10mm bolts that hold it on. After it's off then you can just fix it on the bench. Shouldn't take any more than 20 minutes. That is with the car starting on the ground.

Your welcome for the information, also I've got a few updates to post in the thread for the manual rack. As always we all try to keep learning and sharing our knowledge.
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Old 06-04-2019, 12:21 PM   #582
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Wait, I believe I am not being clear enough as to which spring I am taking about. The spring is not in the valve body at all. The spring is in the main shaft, and has a diameter near 2 inches. It sits in the end of the cylinder housing (what PRCB7 called the "black housing") and seems to apply force to the large grey cylinder itself.

In the image below, the part I am referring to is called the cylinder spring, and it's near the top left in the image.

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15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-04-2019, 11:06 PM   #583
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Unfortunately yes you do need that spring. You need to tear it all back out and get that spring back in there!
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:14 AM   #584
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Ah, geez, well at least I didn't bend the new cotter pins!
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:27 PM   #585
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Ok, I have to say...I am bummed that I can't get into Jei at Blacktrax before the first track day on the 17th, but...

Phearable.net is AWESOME!!!!!

I already have the s300 basemap from them for the H23A, and I just called to ask a question about their remote E-Tune service after hours.

I literally got a call back in about 5 minutes. The guy was so nice and helpful, and he actually wanted to hear about the entire car and work with me on price and everything to do the remote tune! I'm actually excited to be involved in the whole process, through datalogging and such. Three sets of calibrations are included in the price, and five different datalogs are done for each calibration. Wohoo for remote tuning!
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:37 PM   #586
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John Vega is awesome. I have done plenty of business with him and I always walk away a happy customer.
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:13 PM   #587
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Oh, Nick, BTW, I rotated my bracket for the coil so that it sits lower in the engine bay. I rotated it about 90 degrees toward the passenger side. I actually had to do that to make the coil wire reach the dizzy.
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:05 AM   #588
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Annndddd..

I got the H23A VTEC started tonight, after a few cranks!

The good: oil pressure is steady, fuel pressure is steady, and the timing belt is not off by a tooth nor is it walking (I still need to set ignition timing).

The bad: Code 6 for ECT high input - rats ate through the wires right at the green connector for temp (black and blue wire) that is very close to the distributor clips in the loom, and the H23A has a sensor spot on the coolant neck blocked off, so I used one of the other green connectors next to the O2 sensor connector to connect to the head. The third green connector was pulled a little out of the harness to make connection to the thermostat housing. I'm guessing I have to fix that broken connector and connect it to the spot on the head and leave the one I have plugged in now unconnected.

Code 21 - VTEC Solenoid High Input - I have no idea why this code is happening. I connected the wire for that solenoid directly to pin A4, as instructed, and connected black to ground. I will check again, but not sure what to do there.

Last thing - oil was lightly pissing out of the oil pressure sensor. How tight is that supposed to be? I was under the impression that there was supposed to be some gap between the larger/inner and smaller/outer nuts. Should I tighten it down until there is no gap at all?

Otherwise, I am super excited that it fired up!
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!

Last edited by af_1132; 06-11-2019 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:25 AM   #589
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Your vtec does sound like it was wired correctly, where did you pick your ground for the Ecu solenoid?

As for the code 6 the green plugs so go one to the thermostat and one to the water neck. The grey plug should go to the head. If you have this mixed match you will get a code 6 and your fan will most likely be on when you put the key in the on position. The blue and black wire go to the thermostat. The red/yell and gre/yellow go to the head.

Glad to hear she fired right up for you!
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:59 AM   #590
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Thanks for the help, Nick!

The ground for the VTEC subharness (I assume that is what you meant) was placed in a screw hole on the right side of the foundation for the heater core. It is my same ground that I use for the wideband. Do you think I should separate them to two different locations? The wideband read 22.4 during the entire 90 seconds I had the motor on, but I assumed that was because I am open header.

My dumb harness has three green plugs, no grey one! The way I had it plugged in, the fan did kick on seconds after the startup. On the H23A, the water neck plug is blocked off, so I am guessing I need to repair the other plug that was chewed through by dumb rats.

I tightened down the outer nut for the oil pressure sensor until it hit the larger nut (no gap now). When I get home from work, I will try starting again to see if it still spits oil. I hope I don't have to use Hondabond to seal that sensor.
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:08 PM   #591
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Look at the wires for the plug, thermostat plug is the black and blue and the head plug is red/yellow and green/yellow. I’ll look when I get home and see what the water eck plug is. But since you fan kicks on I can bet you you have the plugs swapped and that will fix that code.
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:27 AM   #592
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I fixed code 6, thanks for the help again, Nick! I needed to solder on a connector for the thermostat housing sensor, since THAT was the one chewed through by rats. I repositioned the other two connectors, swapped in a CB7 water neck, and all was well on the second startup tonight in regards to that.

In more good news, the AFRs are starting to kick in like they are supposed to! I forgot it took around 90 seconds after startup to be warm enough for accurate readings.

Code 21 is still coming up right as ignition is switched on (Hondata calls it "VTEC Solenoid high voltage"). This is after I repositioned the ground wire to one of the studs that used to hold the ECU bracket/plate. I'm wondering if I should be cleaning the solenoid and housing itself, or if my ground is still not satisfactory due to the paint on the metal on the inside of the firewall.

Last thing, the oil pressure sensor is not what is leaking, its the oil cooler, from what looks like the inner edge, ugh! The leak is at a rate of about 1 drop every 1.5 seconds. That is going to have to come apart.
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MRT
FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:30 AM   #593
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I took off the solenoid, and voila, it was clean as a whistle and the screen looked like new!

Since the code comes up right at the onset of ignition, I am assuming it is the wiring. I just tried to ground it on the rear cross member and still get code 21 at ignition. Before I bust out the Ohmmeter, I am beginning to question the way the ground was set up on the subharness I got. Here is the harness.. See how it appears to be as long as all the pinned wires? I've read on here that it needs to be short, like short enough that you would ground to the engine. Should I also be checking for a click when I turn on the ignition?
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FS Thread

15.10 @ 90.42mph
The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!

Last edited by af_1132; 06-12-2019 at 12:14 PM.
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