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seriously weird braking issues. only 3 wheels braking.

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    seriously weird braking issues. only 3 wheels braking.

    I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this before?

    I started the other day changing out my brake lines on my lx wagon for steel braided like all my other cars have. I did the rears first RR then LR and bled each line. Took the car out for a trip arround the block and everything was fine.

    Yesterday i started working on the fronts, FR first everything went on fine bled the line, brake grabbed normal stuff. Went on to the FL this is where things got weird. Pulled off the brake line, threw on the new one started bleeding it and noticed alot more air than should of been in the line, i accidentally let it run low on fluid using the vac pump cause i was distracted at the time. Went back into the house to get a fresh bottle and remembered i had a vigor 290mm booster and m.c. sitting in the workshop...

    Soooo i figured since i already ran the thing out of fluid and i was going to have to bleed the m.c. again anyway i might as well throw the vigor stuff on. Next step, got the bigger booster installed. No need going into the details of how to make it fit, im sure someone has a writeup or something about it somewhere on here. Bench bled the vigs mc and realized the rear fitting is a larger thread than the accord and i didnt have a flare tool to modify the line and install the larger fitting. So i bench bled the accords mc again and threw it back on.

    Went through the motions of bleeding the brakes again, RR RL FR and when i got to the FL the system again was pulling fluid through with a decent ammount of air in it but the fluid was comming out slower than the right side with the same pressure applied. So we got the rest of the air out, dropped it off the jack and took it arround the block for a quick drive. Nothing quicker than 30 mph. I noticed that the car was pulling hard to the right when braking, pulled back into the driveway jacked the car up took the car out of gear and had someone press the brake while i spun each wheel and when i got to the front drivers side noticed that no matter how hard the pedal was pressed the caliper would not grab. Pulled the wheel back off and noticed there was a gap between the piston and the rear pad. Pumped the brakes a bunch and still didnt compress. Checked the front brake lines for kinks then went back into the workshop and grabbed another front caliper hooked it up to see if the caliper was blown, spare wouldnt move either.

    Did anyone else ever have this issue with the accords that only 1 side wouldnt grab? I was thinking it might be the proportioning valve has a issue? i really cant think of anything else it would be at this point and was hoping someone else who knows these cars could provide insight on why this would happen?

    #2
    Are you getting fluid at the wheel that isn't grabbing?

    If not, I'd say master cylinder.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    Comment


      #3
      No, the whole front left is completely dead. Even with a vacuum pump @-25 and someone pressing on the pedal no fluid or very little comes through the hose. i removed the hard line from the proportioning valve and blew it and the sb hose out with about 60 psi to make sure the line was free of all debris.

      If the master cylinder was bad then wouldnt both front brakes be out instead of just a single side? theres 2 sends from the m.c. both go to the proportioning valve then get split into front and rear.

      Has anyone ever attempted to clean one of these prop valves before? Really do not want to remove this whole thing and soak it but i cant find a replacement from a parts store and dont feel like going through the hassle of ripping one out down at harrys in the cold and rain. Hopefully i can get away with just blowing out the front section with some air and some brakekleen.

      Comment


        #4
        Our cars have diagonal braking system. Left front and right rear are together and right front and left rear are together.

        So if it was a master cylinder the right rear would be dead too.
        wat?

        Comment


          #5
          I was unsure how the lines were routed from the valve. Thank you. Now hopefully i can get this straitened out without pulling the proportioning valve out. Ill put the m12 adapter on the vigor master cylinder since its already here and hopefully it will be up and running again. Ill go back out and jack up the right rear and check again if its dead as well.

          Comment


            #6
            Actually that might be a bad idea using the vigor/ex master cylinder instead of the lx/dx one since they have different line routing and different prop valves which might cause it to pull to one side while braking. Honda probably put the rear fitting as a m12 for a reason so that you dont use it on a lx/dx cause it may cause problems. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone finds this thread down the road.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ricewagon View Post
              Actually that might be a bad idea using the vigor/ex master cylinder instead of the lx/dx one since they have different line routing and different prop valves which might cause it to pull to one side while braking. Honda probably put the rear fitting as a m12 for a reason so that you dont use it on a lx/dx cause it may cause problems. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone finds this thread down the road.
              The different fittings are indicative of an ABS master cylinder.

              Also I'm out of ideas, short of a kink of block somewhere.
              MRT
              37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
              30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
              27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

              Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

              Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
              Originally posted by Tippey764
              I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
              Originally posted by deevergote
              sneaky motherfucker

              Comment


                #8
                Already checked the lines for a kink and pulled and blew them clear. I might just pick up a new master cylinder today for it since its only 40 bucks and im going to have to remove it to get at the prop valve and rest of the lines anyway. Much as id like to run the vigor mc which is the same as the ex part number wise, common sense and research is telling me not to.

                ill give the prop valve a cleaning out with some brakekleen and 2+2. Hopefully i can get all the junk out of it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Boy am i a IDIOT. So yea finally got this straitened out. My master cylinder was the original in the car (178k) so the action on the piston was really loose and weak. When i bolted it on the vigor booster i had compressed it to the point the piston wouldnt reset itself all the way and i never noticed until i took it back off again. The original master cylinder was on its way out to begin with and the booster was really rusted up and corroded i never trusted the braking of the car. So i went to autozone and got a adapter fitting m12 male to m10 female and took a chance and put the vigors master cylinder on it. so far the car is braking great. The 100 total spent for the steel braided lines, vigor/ex master cylinder and booster was well worth it. Finally trust the braking of the car.

                  I know its the wrong master cylinder, its for the abs model but its working good so far. If it does fail or causes a blowout in the braking system i will post again.

                  Comment

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