So im currently sitting in the parking lot at work and I notice my tach is skipping all over the place. Its not surging or anything and I even killed all loads on the battery and it still did it. When I gave it gas to see if it continued through out the rpm's it went away. I'm thinking maybe an electrical issue? I know my battery isn't in the best shape anymore so could that be the culprit?
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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jumpy tachometer
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sounds like the ignition control module, which can be tested at most auto part stores for free
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=187851
sold to: cb7rush\h22-accord\Luis\BurtonRiderT6
bought from:jokerxfn-tommi-'93cb7ex
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Originally posted by 904drACCORDMANG View Postsounds like the ignition control module, which can be tested at most auto part stores for freeOriginally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by Tw34k View PostYou can do some basic tests at home with a multimeter to see for yourself if your ICM is out of spec. It is basically just a large high current transistor after all.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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You do not have to heat the ignitor to test its continuity. I also never said a multimeter had a heater function. Granted thermal changes will affect the operational characteristics of electrical components but in this case the ignitor should still be out of spec at normal ambient temperatures as well if it is indeed on its way out. If you insist on heating the unit Im sure you can get it pretty hot with household items like a blow-dryer.
TO do this check yourself simply check resistance between the terminal on the side and the one on top directly next to the one located on the side. spec window is between 1 and 3.3k ohm IIRC.
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