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Old 05-25-2014, 08:55 AM   #121
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:57 AM   #122
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Too be honest with you, I love the video!
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Old 05-25-2014, 01:06 PM   #123
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Thanks
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:50 PM   #124
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New Starter

Been banging the old one for about a week, then it was down for a few days.

This is what the new starters from Autozone look like. It came with a notice about the new appearance and assurance its above factory specs.

Lifetime warranty, don't think autozone is going out of business anytime soon


Electrical connection on top instead of the side. Had to really pull and bend the harness to make it get there


Its also bigger than the old one


The trademark accord startup sound is also gone
A lot quieter though, can hardly hear it
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:17 AM   #125
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I went through 3 ignitors in a month. I swapped the one from the OEM distributor into the newer one, that went bad. I got another used ignitor, that went bad in a few weeks as well. So I got another used ignitor, put that in the original dist. and it shows no sign of going bad, though I'm leaking oil from the distributor seal again.

Then the battery started going dead over night, I had to jump it in the mornings. When the guy you're trying to buy a new battery from tells you don't need it, then you know your battery is good. After a lot of troubleshooting, I narrowed it down to my audio system drawing on the battery while it was off. 12v draw to be exact. It just started doing this out of the blue as I touched nothing in that area. I rewired the amplifier and it still drained the battery down. So I disconnected the amp altogether and the drain down went away for a couple days, till I played the radio again (without the bass, no choice) next morning the battery was dead again. So I unplugged the radio harness yesterday and it cranked right up this morning. I don't know if I need to just reground the radio itself and get a new amp, but I'm going to try. I also sanded and cleaned the battery connections and put some left over bulb grease around them as there were signs of corrosion and rust.

My new camberkit bushings went bad again, rattling from front wheels, and it pulls one way or the other when braking and accelerating. I'm considering going with no camberkit and poly bushings in the OEM anchor bolts before my alignment warranty runs out, but the guy at the shop says he doesn't recommend it. There are threads on this forum (camberkit myth) and others that the kits aren't necessary once the toe is perfect. I'm going to try it because its probably eating the tires up anyway with the wheels going back and forth because of the bad bushings, and the drop with the Stechs is mild.

I haven't had time but soon as I'm going to paint the wheels and do minor body work in preparation for paint.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:22 AM   #126
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Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool... Jarrett . You'll never be this cool...
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How is that starter holding up?
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:45 AM   #127
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It's been holding up well. That's the first thing I thought was draining the battery, but it's not. I can hear it a little now, at first I could just feel the vibration when cranking, which is weird if you've never heard an engine turn over without the starter sound. But it's doing the job
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:08 PM   #128
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I passed up a sweet deal on a 1999 325i, manual, with baby blue-grey leather interior, with only 113l miles. That's CB7 love right there. I just couldn't leave so many things half done on it, plus I still love this car, looks+driving feel.

Plus who needs BMW repair and maintenance costs anyway. I might be painting the CB soon.
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Old 02-11-2015, 06:18 PM   #129
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Riding Dirty



with the Tein S-Techs
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:38 PM   #130
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Jack

Bought a low-profile jack a few months back. Great deal, worth every penny.

Did a couple of oil changes on mine and a couple on another car already







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Old 07-22-2015, 05:28 PM   #131
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outer Tie-rod ends

Finally changed the tierods. No alignment was necessary




Found some pics of the CB before I raised it up (nothing else to do with them)

(edit









extras








this is the current drop after the springs settled
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:58 AM   #132
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One of my favorites, very clean and thorough. Did you notice any change in MPG's with the filter fitted to the oem intake?
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:17 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khal.lawson View Post
One of my favorites, very clean and thorough. Did you notice any change in MPG's with the filter fitted to the oem intake?
Thanks man
I couldn't say for sure with the MPGs. It's always been in the low 20s when i'm driving hard, and high twenties with regular driving, maybe even 30 on the highway, before and after. I don't have an exact number.

One thing I did notice with the filter and the header, before, my speedo would hit 50 at the exact same time my rev counter would hit 3k in third gear. Now when the tach hits 3k, Im only doing about 45mph. So I would say I have to rev it a little more to achieve the same speed. Not sure if that makes me burn more gas or not. I just change at 45 instead of 50.

I'm planning on getting an aluminum tube when I change the intake manifold though
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:52 PM   #134
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Brake fluid leak

The BRAKE light on the dash kept coming on. Thought something was wrong with my e-brake but it was working fine...then my brakes started getting spongy...checked the brake fluid and it was almost dry
Took the wheel off for a closer look







seemed to be coming from the caliper. I had all the pieces for the Acura Cl brake upgrade, so there was no better time, actually I had no choice
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:12 PM   #135
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CL brakes install

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=3239903


















I don't know if its because my old brakes were so bad, but, after the proper bleeding and all that, the braking is much improved + the pedal feels more responsive
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:08 PM   #136
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What would happen if you pump the brakes with the caliper disconnected from the rotor:


That piston is coming out. Though my boot was already ripped.

Performance was good for a few days, till at lights I noticed my brake pedal going down, down down (like when bleeding brakes) Checked the reservoir, and it was low. Checked the wheel and brake fluid streams could be seen across the rims/tires. I tried to get it off right away, but the rim is tarnished.

Turned out it was the brake line. I missed this bubble


re-bled, and now the pedal is stiff again. almost right at the top.
I put the CL brake line on on that side, for some reason the banjo connection wouldn't go back into the caliper groove, so I changed the angle, skipped a bracket and used zip ties.

I want to get stainless brake lines eventually.
It was my cleanest rim


Caught the brake fever, and started spending money I shouldn't



After this I'll chill
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:58 PM   #137
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camber kit removed

When I did the brakes I changed one control arm and took the camberkits out. (Good riddance, the damn rattling)



Apart from a slight pull to one side ride was great with the new bushings. After a week, the inside of my tires are eaten down, like royally fucked up. They used the camberkits to adjust toe instead of just camber, though they said they didn't. So I have it sitting mostly til I do the rear disc conversion to do an alignment. Saving the little tread left to switch them to the back, put the new ones in the front.

I have adjustable ball joints (up to _1 deg.) Im going to fit into the OEM arms. With the camber kit they had to drop me to -1degrees anyway to avoid too much banging, so when I raised it I actually had slight positive camber. im thinking no camberkit with the slight drop would bring me to the middle (about -1 degrees) which is optimal for me. If not, just switch in the adjustable.

The rears have almost no excessive inner wear with more than -1. So I'll try it.
I want to get new tires in a couple months. The NExens served me well, but they discontinued the ones I like, and the new (good) ones have gone up in price to the level of Yokohama and Hankook, so Ill try one like that.



Due for a thorough cleaning. been neglecting it
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:25 PM   #138
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Rotors, Ceramic pads and new clips came in




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Old 08-06-2015, 09:24 PM   #139
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I got the rear disc conversion done....did it by myself...it took me a while

Ebrake lines = SOB

Grabs good, can't say how much better than the drums they are, definitely look better, but the fronts made the difference.

Took a few pics...I'll post another time (waiting on a fan for my laptop)

All in all :
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:02 PM   #140
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LED Cluster lights



Modification list on first page updated
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