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Old 01-23-2011, 03:28 AM   #1
CyborgGT
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Talking CyborgGT: Mild H22A Build



The Goal


A bit unusual, but I'm building the engine first, then getting the car to put it in. I used to have a '92 LX sedan with an automatic H22A swap, but ran into an intermittent electrical problem I couldn't figure out and took that as an excuse to ditch the body and build the motor. However, I've come to love wagons, so that's what I want this engine to go into. The performance benchmark is to at least match the acceleration of a stock Evo or STi without boost - if I can be the first on here to crack 200 lb-ft (short of big-budget 2point6 and Bisi), that would be awesome as well. I know dynos are more for tracking progress of a single car rather than comparing to others on different dynos in different atmospheric conditions, but still. To that end, transaxle gearing will be modified later on (4.6 FD at the very least), and other engine parts could be changed out as well.


The Latest

July 2019

I am officially in the market and on the lookout for a wagon! I'll say it now, please don't bother letting me know of anything in your local area, because I cannot get the time off work quickly enough to travel for a purchase. However, regardless of when I manage to find the right wagon, the engine assembly and swap won't happen until at least this winter. At that point, there's always a chance that the machine shops will be backed up with orders and won't be able to get to mine immediately. If it takes too long to find a wagon, I might grab a coupe (or maybe even a fourth-gen Prelude, I've always wanted to experience one of those) as a placeholder for the engine just to get it tuned and running. But I wanted to announce that this is actually nearing the end! (... of the beginning. So much is planned beyond the engine!)




The Build



1997 H22A (closed deck)

First off, here are the sites I found the best deals at, for those wanting to shop around for savings...

> Euro Export Inc.
> Explicit Speed Performance
> HELM Inc.
> H Motors Online
> Import Replacement Parts
> JHPUSA
> Kteller
> Majestic Honda (OEM parts)
> Race Engineering
> Real St. Performance
> Summit Racing

And of course it never hurts to check those prices against eBay; just be sure to match part numbers and look into the seller's reviews and reputation for not selling knock-offs.



ELECTRONICS

- Hondata S300; Phearable base map for start-up
- AEM gauges: UEGO, EGT, oil press., fuel press. (still plan to get oil temp)

*Future custom dash gauge cluster to include volts & oil temp; that whole set will be by one, different, brand*


by D.Flinn, on Flickr


INTAKE

- K&N Apollo intake system for 70mm pipe
- AEM 70mm OD aluminum tubing for custom intake
- DEI gold heat tape 2"x30'
- Professional Products 68mm Power throttle body for ITR, polished
- H22 Euro-R/Type-R intake manifold prepped by Rosko Racing (68mm port match)
- Bisimoto thermal intake manifold gasket


by D.Flinn, on Flickr


FUEL

- Walbro 255lph pump w/install kit
- Rosko Racing rail
- Acura RDX 410cc OE injectors & pigtails
- AEM pressure regulator


by D.Flinn, on Flickr


HEAD

- Ishino/Stone (OEM) top-end gasket set
- ARP head studs
- Supertech machine hardened valve locks
- Supertech titanium spring retainers
- Supertech 79lb valve springs
- Supertech valve seals
- Supertech valve guides (Manganese Bronze intake, copper alloy exhaust)
- Supertech black nitrided dish valves
- New OEM valve spring seats
- Skunk2 Pro 2 cams
- Skunk2 Pro Black Series cam gears
- OEM manual timing tensioner conversion kit
- Skunk2 cam seal
- Skunk2 "Skunk2 Inside" VTEC solenoid cover


by D.Flinn, on Flickr


BLOCK

- Fel-Pro complete bottom-end gasket set
- Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons (re-sleeve, of course; one of my stock bores is scratched)
- Eagle H-beam rods
- ARP main studs
- ESP urethane mounts w/low-profile rear bracket
- ATI street damper
- K-Tuned oil pressure sensor adapter (to 'T' in oil psi gauge)
_ S2000 oil filters (part no. 15400-PCX-004*)

* The S2000 oil filter uses a larger body, offering better filtering thanks to more pleats (i.e. surface area) in the element. I'm reading that increased flow provides better oil pressure around 8,000rpm and above, as well. It's probably a waste of money for a normal street engine, but since I'm tuned and it will see a lot of high-RPM use, it should provide that little bit more security.





EXHAUST
*I have a Spoon header that I'd like to compare to the PLM below on the dyno, but since it bolts to the stock downpipe, I'm thinking of having a full custom downpipe made rather than cobbling together a 2.5" collector conversion on the stock dp. We'll see how that works out in terms of timing; it may or may not happen right away, but I do want to see how the headers compare. Also, I am aware that the KTeller exhaust kit is for the sedan/coupe with its more inset muffler location. I actually prefer the look of that, so rather than modify it to fit the wagon location, I will be modifying the factory wagon bumper lip to fit the sedan muffler location.

- PLM HyTech knock-off 4-2-1 header
- Vibrant 1197 EGT bung, stainless
- Vibrant 10355 merge collector, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 60804 "turbo" flex pipe, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 1194A O2 sensor bung x2, stainless
- Vibrant U-J scrap bends, stainless 2.5"
- Summit Racing 4' scrap straight, stainless 2.5"
- Catco 6906 cat, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 2.5" bottle resonator & 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator - will experiment with both for sound
- Summit Racing 2.5" V-band connections x3
- Vibrant 2630 2.5"-to-3" transition (exhaust expands to 3" just before the first 90* bend to keep flow up)
- Kteller 3" stainless/mandrel piping
- Vibrant Street Power muffler, 3" in/dual 3.5" out



MISCELLANEOUS

- 1997 JDM H22A longblock
- '92 Accord service manual
- '92 Accord electrical troubleshooting manual
- '94 Prelude service manual
- EuroExportInc specialized valve spring compressor tool
- Explicit Speed traction bar


"Slowly But Surely..."


by D.Flinn, on Flickr
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 07-28-2019 at 02:13 AM. Reason: OP's intention is to facilitate a build, thus a build thread OP shall have.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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Skool'd


Some stuff I found in my research, maybe it'll save future searchers some time. This is just info I've found that seems to agree with my logic and experience, so only use it as a stepping stone in your own reading. It comes with the territory of internet research that you'll want to find as many opinions as possible on any given subject that you can then pick apart to find where they agree - that's where the truth lies. Reading into one subject often triggers an idea or sparks interest in something more specific, which looking into might give you yet another perspective on that original subject. So don't take this as a one-stop shop, and always fact check!


The Internet Gurus...

Quote:
General info & advice for NA builds - a lot of this will cross over into boost builds as well.

> AutoZine Technical School - covers every aspect of a car; very technical info
> Honda-Tech - N/A overview

> 98vtec Q&A
> accorn's build thread
> K1 Attack kit car owner using H22 power, discussing build tech

> Old CB7T header science talk
> Intake resonance science
> Intake & Exhaust Size - Enginology by Hot Rod Network
> Header-Exhaust Design Effects on Engine Power - the science behind specific header and exhaust system design features
> Aluminum - why it should not be used in an exhaust system
> Exhaust Gast Temperature explained (related: EGT sensor placement if you're only using one probe)

> C.O.P. - some talk on ECU compatibility
> Professional Mil-Spec Motorsport ECU Wiring Harness Construction
> Spark plug basics - by NGK; function as well as temperature choice
- > Second opinion on plug & wire choice from experienced mechanic and racer

> Fuel injector sizing - calculating injector flow needs for your power goals
> Can titanium retainers handle street/daily kinds of mileage? - S2Ki forum talk
> How to degree camshafts - this is especially important if either head gasket surface (head or block) has been machined, or if the head gasket is of a different thickness from stock, since they alter the distance between the cam and crank gears, affecting the timing.

> Crankshaft lubrication
> An argument for ATI / do NOT use billet pulleys!
> An argument for Fluidampr over ATI - not that Fluidampr makes an H22 pulley anymore, but here you have it
> Interview with guys from ATI and Fluidampr
> Setting piston ring gap - by Wiseco
> Initial engine break-in/piston ring seating - article sponsored by JE Pistons
> Initial engine break-in/piston ring seating - article written with help from ATK High Performance Engines and Summit Racing
> Crank case ventilation - The importance of using a catch can system

> Micrometers - a machinist's opinion on recommended mics and calipers

> Visual tire size calculator - I just really like this one, so I wanted to share...
On Honda FRM sleeves...

Quote:
HondaTuning article.

On Darton H22 sleeves...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darton

When you sleeve a H22 block whether it is closed or open the sleeves are the same. Depending on how much power you plan on making and how big a bore size you are going to run will determine which sleeve you will use.

If you have the H22a/a1 closed deck block and this is going to be a strip/street motor you can use the 300-018 sleeves for stock bore size. If you plan on building a straight drag motor and going with a large bore then you would use the MID sleeves.

There are actually 3 different sleeves for the H22 blocks:

1. Repair sleeve 200-018. This is a straight sleeve primairly used for stock applications or to repair the block.

2. Flanged sleeve 300-018. This is a flanged sleeve with a lip at the top so the sleeves registers at the top for added support. This sleeve is good for mild horsepower builds street/strip.

3. MID 400-160-P. This is our phosphate coated MID wet sleeve. This is the top of the line sleeve that will handle anything you throw at it. Since it is a wet sleeve the sleeves are completely replaceable one at a time or all four at a time using the same block. This allows you to use the same block over and over again. The sleeve is also phosphate coated to help with anit-rust and anti-corrosion in the water jacket area.

source

On my choice of exhaust size...

I'm afraid of going full 3" and it making the car super loud, but I've also heard that "everything after the header is a restriction," so it sounded like the best compromise to start out at 2.5" and then open it up to 3" further down the system. Putting the diameter step right before the bends around the gas tank made the most sense, so I posed the question of its effects on actual performance...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm92_accorn

The 2.5" straight section will keep the exhaust pulses close together which is better for scavenging but a 2.5" bend will not flow the same as a 2.5" straight pipe. The 3" starting at the bends allows for less restriction which helps against back pressure or reversion which will kill the scavenging effect. As far as it being loud, changing the rear section to 3" will deepen the exhaust note which can cause droning. Look into the 3" inlet world sport muffler, its much quieter and flows similar to the vibrant.

Wanting a Euro-R intake manifold? Looks like your only option is sourcing one second-hand...

Quote:
Conversation at Prelude Power:

Apex1972, Jan 4, 2013:
Is there any problem with availability on the euro r at this time?

Rosko, Feb 21, 2013:
Yeah, I've been waiting on an order since October, should be here soon but all are spoken for already. Another shipment is supposedly coming in several weeks behind that one but who knows. I deffinately cannot get as many as I would like.

CyborgGT, Dec 30, 2014:
^ Same question, but more up-to-date? Just want to make sure that "back order" notice [at RoskoRacing.com] is looked after.

Rosko, Dec 30, 2014:
I received 6 in the months shortly after that post and have not been able to get any since. I spoke with Steve spring of 2014 and told him to order 6 more for me, he said 2-3 months and I said OK get them coming. I pass this info on to my customers, some gave money up front and others waited patiently. After about 3 months I had not heard anything yet and gave him a call to find out that nothing had been ordered. I pretty much gave up after that and refunded my customers money or set them up with something else. I'm not sure what the deal is to be honest, but I couldn't keep promising my customers a date knowing that date was going to come and go. Everything about getting these over the past few years has been a struggle and even though my customers have been patient it always (in my eyes) makes me look like a dick. I can't do business like that. I don't want to have to call and check in every week and keep nagging on a company to get me what I need. If you tell me something will be here then make damn sure it is. 1 month always turns into 3-4 and finally I had enough. Sadly there aren't any other companies that import these (at least that I know of), there are a few that advertise them but I think what I figured out is that they just source them from H motors as well.

I still offer the same services if you are able to source your own, and I still produce all the a parts but from here on out I don't expect to ever stock these again.

There are other options though. I've developed an alternative over the past few years and that is the fabbed upper plenum and modified lower. These have proven to be the better option and I highly suggest you check those out if you haven't already.


source

Ideas in making a Bisimoto header less 'drag strip only', this would be worth testing for substance...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnick

24" is about the right length for a stock camshaft profile if I recall correctly. I'll have to read through my emails with Ghost to find out for sure. The biggest problem with that header design is that it's a 4-1; without secondaries, you're losing a LOT of mid-range torque. Not really a problem with an engine that is really only for drag racing, but below 4500rpm, it's probably sacrificing a good 10-15lbs/ft of torque. Secondaries with a 10-12" length would do wonders for that header as they'll boost torque and not sacrifice top end in any way; pairing of the cylinders doesn't matter as much on a 4-cylinder as you may think, so pairing F and R tubes, rather than R and L, would probably be best packaging wise. From what I can tell, it probably has 1.75" diameter primaries, which probably helps with velocity with those tight bends right off the flange like that. Collector design plays a big part as well, the Bisi collector actually looked like a fairly decent design, although 2.5" at the collector's exit was probably sacrificing some velocity for volume. Definitely some design vs manufacturing compromises in the header, but nothing that can't be worked around. The upper portion is a pretty good start, adding some good 2-1 collectors off upper, 10-12" long 2" diameter secondaries dumping into a final 2.25" 2-1 collector and tapering up to 2.5" would net big mid-range gains over the original 4-1 single collector design. It won't be cheap or easy(due to packaging concerns, probably the reason for the single 4-1 collector in the first place), but would be a great way to have a quality header for under about $1000 all invested. Heat and velocity that far upstream in the exhaust system are your friend.

source

Can you use a USDM oil pump on a JDM block? I e-mailed the H22 specialists at KSTuned.com. As of 10.12.2017, Majestic Honda appears to only carry oil pumps for later fifth-gen Preludes...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaizenspeed

All of the H22 oil pumps are interchangeable, USDM or JDM. The H22A4 pump is the cheapest from the dealer, and it has provisions for the OBD2 crank sensor's. We supply the USDM OBD2 H22A4 pump with our balance shaft eliminator/pump kit.
Thanks to jamin_jacob and RM Import Performance, here is a video on checking clearances for wear in your oil pump (specs given are for an F22A; double check specs for your own engine): https://www.facebook.com/NRLEengines...7099955142918/


Lost motion assemblies. I'd been reading about people having problems with OEM LMAs not being enough to handle larger aftermarket cams in the B-series engines. Skunk2 makes upgraded springs for the B, but not for the H, so I emailed them about reliably running the Pro 2 cams I had already purchased before hearing of this problem. They gave me this brief and to-the-point response. The general internet consensus, however, is to replace the LMAs whenever you change cams, so I'll be ordering new OEMs for mine to be safe...

Quote:
"Yes, the OEM LMAs will work the the Pro2 cams."
- Douglas Haley @ Group A Engineering (Kraft Werks/Skunk2/Grams)

~ ~ ~

And some discussion on Honda's LMA design change, which for Preludes began with the '98 model year. Despite being a B-series thread, the part numbers in the link match up for Preludes at HondaAutomotiveParts.com):

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...-info-2312727/

- - - - -

My original question from way back, so the next few posts aren't confusing: I'm trying to do as thorough of research as possible before I start collecting parts to do an all-at-once NA build down the line. One specific part I've been looking at is Mahle's 11.5:1 piston. Has anyone with similar compression, teamed with aftermarket cams (thinking Bisi Lvl 2, so something with roughly that kind of lift), run into piston-to-valve clearance issues?
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 06-22-2019 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:46 PM   #3
jhondayaaj
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U should b ok. With that high compression and only the level 2, there shouldn't be any problems. As long as you don't mill the head.
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:05 PM   #4
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I read in HondaTuning of Crower Stage 3s creating issues with those pistons (taller springs and retainers were needed), so naturally I'm paranoid about any aftermarket lobes. Bisi 2s are supposed to be fairly mild though, I suppose. Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:09 PM   #5
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bisi lvl 2

I haven't looked at the specs on the bisi cam, but I would imagine they are around that of the s2 pro 1 series. There is one guy on here claiming to run those came with type s piston.

The type s piston have very shadow valve relief, so if his works I think you should be ok.

I don't know how far away this is but I will be keeping an eye on it if you are going with the bisi cam. For a while I have been fighting to decide between the s2p1 and bisi cams.

Bisi has a good track record with came, but they have not been proven, at least that I have seen, to make the power of the s2p1.
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Old 01-27-2011, 12:37 AM   #6
CyborgGT
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No, it won't be for quite a while (I'm not touching a credit card, I save up for what I want). There are other areas of the car I want to take care of first. In the mean time, I don't think it's possible to do too much research. Except for the exhaust, I want to do an all-at-once build, collecting all the parts and setting them aside until that point when I can work on the motor and get it tuned in one fell swoop. Luckily there's a tuning shop in town with a ton of experience with Hondas. So far my plans for power delivery are as follows:

H22A
P28
Hondata S300

AEM short ram intake
Euro-R intake manifold
Bisimoto heat-shielding intake manifold gasket

Adjustable cam gears
Valve springs & titanium retainers
Bisimoto Level 2 cams
Mahle 11.5:1 pistons
Connecting rods
ARP head+main studs

Bisimoto header
Kteller 2.5" stainless steel CB Accord exhaust piping kit
Magnaflow 2.5" cat
Vibrant 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator**
Magnaflow 2.5" stainless muffler

M2B4
Carbonetic carbon ATS 1.5-way LSD
Carbonetic 4.643 final drive gear set
Short shift

**Side story: I might go for two of these resonators. There's a 9091 coupe in town (guy's not on here), says he built his F to beat the diesel pickups on cruise night. Still not too quick, but his exhaust is loud as hell at WOT. I watched a car following him to record some pulls. A cop pulled out of a side street and got on his ass quick-like. Didn't pull him over, but I am definitely wanting to keep my presence to a minimum. I want a nice deep tone, but the volume at about 6.

The theme of my build is mild autocross/circuit racing abilities (under ~250whp) in a daily driver so I'm jumping around, doing 'phases' of a little power here, some handling improvements there, and general restorations along the way. A reliable motor is important, so it's getting strengthened whether it really needs it or not. I don't want to get too caught up in one aspect of the car for too long and get bored with it, hence the phases... honestly, I have a rough 'schedule of events' made up . It's a very long process, but I don't think I'll ever want to get rid of my Accord.

H-swap and springs/shocks this year, and try to get started on the exhaust by next Spring. Hopefully I'll have a better paying job by then as well and get the ball rolling faster.
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-27-2011 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
No, it won't be for quite a while (I'm not touching a credit card, I save up for what I want). There are other areas of the car I want to take care of first. In the mean time, I don't think it's possible to do too much research. Except for the exhaust, I want to do an all-at-once build, collecting all the parts and setting them aside until that point when I can work on the motor and get it tuned in one fell swoop. Luckily there's a tuning shop in town with a ton of experience with Hondas. So far my plans for power delivery are as follows:

H22A
P28
Hondata S300

AEM short ram intake
Euro-R intake manifold
Bisimoto heat-shielding intake manifold gasket

Adjustable cam gears
Valve springs & titanium retainers
Bisimoto Level 2 cams
Mahle 11.5:1 pistons
Connecting rods
ARP head+main studs

Bisimoto header
Kteller 2.5" stainless steel CB Accord exhaust piping kit
Magnaflow 2.5" cat
Vibrant 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator**
Magnaflow 2.5" stainless muffler

M2B4
Carbonetic carbon ATS 1.5-way LSD
Carbonetic 4.643 final drive gear set
Short shift

**Side story: I might go for two of these resonators. There's a 9091 coupe in town (guy's not on here), says he built his F to beat the diesel pickups on cruise night. Still not too quick, but his exhaust is loud as hell at WOT. I watched a car following him to record some pulls. A cop pulled out of a side street and got on his ass quick-like. Didn't pull him over, but I am definitely wanting to keep my presence to a minimum. I want a nice deep tone, but the volume at about 6.

The theme of my build is mild autocross/circuit racing abilities (under ~250whp) in a daily driver so I'm jumping around, doing 'phases' of a little power here, some handling improvements there, and general restorations along the way. A reliable motor is important, so it's getting strengthened whether it really needs it or not. I don't want to get too caught up in one aspect of the car for too long and get bored with it, hence the phases... honestly, I have a rough 'schedule of events' made up . It's a very long process, but I don't think I'll ever want to get rid of my Accord.

H-swap and springs/shocks this year, and try to get started on the exhaust by next Spring. Hopefully I'll have a better paying job by then as well and get the ball rolling faster.
An FYI since ur replacing the exaughst im def certain I read a post that the h22's respond to 3" exaughst gusse it was proven for like 7whp on dyno I thought. I cant find the page ... But since ur replacing the exaughst and going with ketteller exaughst system I reccomend the 3" unless of course it outragously spensive :P
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:57 AM   #8
CyborgGT
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H22A: Mild All-Motor Rebuild, Random Questions

*poof*
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-25-2013 at 03:07 PM. Reason: A thread I forgot about was combined, I'm just movin my NEW original post to the top
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:17 AM   #9
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Since your doing an n/a build, you can get a thinner head gasket to give compression a slight bump... Throw in some cams, springs, and flat faced valves and you can have a great high comp brawler. All those things can be bought from Bisimoto.com for a relatively decent price. I strongly urge the use of head studs if your bumping compression. As for the rest of the gaskets, felpro should have a "conversion" set that contains all your bottom end gaskets and you can easily piece together the rest
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:55 PM   #10
CyborgGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpoppa694lyfe View Post
As for the rest of the gaskets, felpro should have a "conversion" set that contains all your bottom end gaskets and you can easily piece together the rest
I did end up finding this kit, and for a pretty good price. Arrived in the mail today. I also picked up an engine stand yesterday so I can start taking the engine apart and cleaning everything up in preparation for the build.

One thing about my build that's had me nervous is upgrading the fuel system. I know nothing about supplying fuel to any amount of power, and the different specs of injectors, pumps, and FPRs. Once the gaskets are taken care of, I think I'll go ahead piecing together the exhaust system since I'm sure of what I want. That bill is going to be a doosy.
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 10-03-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:41 PM   #11
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While I admit I am too a noob to fuel delivery, I've picked up a little bit along the way. You don't need too much with this build. A fuel rail isn't necessary, the stock flows fine. I believe LoDollar as well as NWaccord are both using the stock rails for their 500whp+ turbo monsters. The AEM & BDL fuel rails do have existing ports for nitrous though if you ever consider going down that road. Otherwise, it's more of a "bling piece". As far as injectors, I wouldn't go above 600cc, and that supports roughly 400whp. A chart that I sometimes use for reference is this one by Precision. As for the fuel pump, a simple Walbro 255lph should be all you need. These components should ensure your engine isn't starving for fuel at high rpm.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deevergote
If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #12
CyborgGT
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Great, thanks for that link. I took a quick look around Honda-Tech and I'm surprised I did't see anything with the rest of the Prelude/H22 info. Going with Precision injectors (if I do, I know they've got a great reputation), it looks like 440cc's should be enough, but 525's would be a nice, safe choice I think.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:31 PM   #13
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I've read through your thread and everything looks great! With you slowly spending so much money, I would like to make a suggestion: Look into a wet nitrous kit. I know you may want to keep it all motor, but for your daily use with a little road racing and autocross, I really think you would appreciate what nitrous could do for your build. This, of course, would be once you get a chassis for the motor, but nonetheless..
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:28 AM   #14
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So the v-bands came in yesterday... they can't be mounted correctly. They're 2.5" inside diameter, sorta like my 2.5" ID cat and resonators. They're supposed to fit snug around the outside of the pipe so that the mating surfaces of the flanges can be placed a hair offset from where the actual pipes meet up for less chance of leaking and to center each other. Not an honest problem, I'll just get 2.5" OD pipe in between, but seriously, exhaust equipment needs to be better standardized. Still, they feel like quality stuff



I'm not interested in nitrous, by the way. I have the same opinion of that as I do turbo: it just feels like cheating. NA and supercharging all day, but no free power!
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:45 AM   #15
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I figure I'll definitely go to the dealer for a head gasket, but who do you guys trust for the rest... that doesn't charge like a dealer? Quality at a good price?

Send me a PM for what you need. I'll give you my price, which I believe is about 15%-20% off retail. Just pay for shipping.




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Originally Posted by bigpoppa694lyfe
Since your doing an n/a build, you can get a thinner head gasket to give compression a slight bump...
The risk/reward for that isn't worth it. The compression bump is very slight and hardly noticeable except on a dyno sheet. It's not worth the possibility of piston slap. 17.0:1 Pistons and everything else in between already exist for the H22, add in the flat faced valves and he's got another 0.5:1. Stick with the OEM and whatever compression he wants he can find with the appropriate piston set.
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If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

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Old 09-15-2012, 11:39 AM   #16
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check out www.tunersports.com I have been getting some good prices and always free shipping.
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:54 AM   #17
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Get the block and heads mating surfaces milled flat. They warp and distort over time and it should be done when rebuilding to ensure the head gasket has even pressure distributed across it.

Head studs id consider optional unless the car was race only build using over 11:1 compression. But its nice to do it while your there. If i had to choose i would take a ported head over the head studs if you mill/deck your setup.

Exhaust ports would be a larger priority than intake IMO. So if porting a head and you could only afford certain stages of port jobs take the higher stage on the exhaust, and maybe even oversized valves. Combine that with a good exhaust system and your VE(voulmetric efficiency) should improve. Over doing the intake @ a higher stage.

Get a very large throttle body, not a spacer. It should also meet the plenum seamlessly.

Portmatch all intake/ exhaust connections.

Coat your exhaust system in high temp paint. I used bbq grill paint. It helps keep heat down in he engine bay and doesnt let the exhaust lose as much heat, and should help keep the velocity up. If nothing else it keeps the system rust free.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:57 AM   #18
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bigpoppa: Felpro doesn't list a thing as far as Prelude VTEC gaskets are concerned.

Joey: I need EVERYTHING, top to bottom. I'm doing a full re-build, so there's no point in leaving anything untouched. There's no deadline for this build, so I'm fine with waiting while I save up money for parts. I will definitely keep you in mind. I assume your discounts are just with OEM parts?

GunRunner: Thanks for the link. I've always gone to ImportRP.com, their prices are almost always lower than anyone else's even though you have to spend $100 before you get free shipping. I'll take a look around TunerSports, thanks!

MortsAccord: While I'm doing a ton of research, I can never have enough build tips. Thanks for all that. I was thinking about going for Type-S pistons (11:1), and InlineFour carries compatible aftermarket rods from I think Eagle. Re-sleeving is an option (and tempting, with FRM's infamous oil burning issues), but I'm desperately unfamiliar with changing or matching up sleeve diameters, over-sized pistons, and such. As for the exhaust, that's a cool trick with the paint, even though the full system will be stainless steel.

The exhaust plans, by the way, are HyTech header, Catco cat, Vibrant UQ resonator/flanges/gaskets/hardware, HyTech Twin Loop muffler, and Kteller piping. All 2.5". I'm hoping for about 230whp, and after looking at build lists in magazines and online, it doesn't look like that'll be too difficult even if I leave most of the detailed internal work stock. There's a local tuner with a lot of Honda experience, so before picking up any strict power parts I'll talk to them about what I can do while keeping the car street and emissions friendly like I want.
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:43 AM   #19
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Resleeve always makes me think about boost. FRM eats rings, which increases oil consumption.

If you go through a resleeve why not boost it i say. You can probably get molybdenum rings (the only rings id use in FRM sleeves) and reuse stock pistons. Unless frm compatible pistons are cheaper now.

If you reuse stock pistons, clean and polish the domes to a mirror finish if you can. Tape up the rest of the piston so it doesn't get bumped or scraped up. You can check the pistons vs deck height in the block, and if wanted they can mill the block down some. I dont know what the limit is. The other thing you can do is run a longer rod. Better rod bolts in stock rods helps as well, and you can have stock rods shotpeened, or simply by better rods. Gotta weigh whats available.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:02 AM   #20
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Joey: I need EVERYTHING, top to bottom. I'm doing a full re-build, so there's no point in leaving anything untouched. There's no deadline for this build, so I'm fine with waiting while I save up money for parts. I will definitely keep you in mind. I assume your discounts are just with OEM parts?
I have some access to aftermarket, it just takes a while to get that kind of stuff in. I will talk to some of my other parts guys around the country to see if they can do better, because some parts depts are more "tuner friendly" than others. I'm going to assume that you're not going to order all of this stuff at once, so just PM me the first batch of items you're looking for and I'll check them out.
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