Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Not your regular "Honda Idle"

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Not your regular "Honda Idle"

    Alright guys, I had a distributor go up on me where my tachometer stopped working. The car was still functioning normal other than the tach. About a few weeks after, when i would come to a stop, as i press the clutch pedal in the rpms would drop and than raise and go into a cycle. I had replaced my distributor and now i can read my rpm. So when I come to a stop, and I press the clutch in the rpm fluctuate between 900-500 rpm. Here is what I have done.
    I have cleaned the IACV and the resistance measured 14.01 ohms.
    The harness measures 11.47 volts.
    I have cleaned and reset the FITV, on cold start up engine runs at 1.5k rpm.
    I have cleaned and checked the air boost valve
    I have set my base idle by unplugging the IACV and adjusting the idle screw to read 500 rpm.
    I have cleaned and checked my EGR valve
    I have checked my ignition timing and it is set at 15 degrees
    I have bleed my coolant
    I have checked the resistance on the TPS and I cant remember what it read but it did increase when I rotated the throttle plate and was in spec according to my Haynes manual
    I have checked for a vacuum leak, and one is not present
    My car is not throwing a CEL and when I reset the computer, the engine runs well for about 20 min and than starts acting up.
    Does anybody have any suggestions?
    Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
    Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

    #2
    I forgot to mention when the car warms up and after driving for a few minutes when I come to a stop the rpm will hover around 1k to about 1.5k depending when I press the clutch in. It will hover for about 5 seconds and than finally drop to 500 rpm and start fluctuating to about 900 rpm
    Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
    Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

    Comment


      #3
      Check your spark plugs.
      Originally posted by Mishakol129
      Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

      Comment


        #4
        I'll try that out I did not think of that
        Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
        Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

        Comment


          #5
          possible big vac leak to.
          What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

          You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

          Retro!

          Hater

          I love nooBs...They make me look good

          Comment


            #6
            what is the safest and most effective way of checking a leak I have done the smoke trick wher you puff cigar smoke in the brake booster vacuum line and it was not too effective
            Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
            Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

            Comment


              #7
              Remove the intake tube, cover the throttle body with your hand, have someone start the car. If it starts, you have a vacuum leak.
              Originally posted by Mishakol129
              Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

              Comment


                #8
                Shots of starter fluid while engine is idling to places you suspect vacuum leak.

                Carb cleaner, wd-40, throttle body cleaner and contact cleaner worked for me in the past in place of the starter fluid.
                A&P-IA

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                  Shots of starter fluid while engine is idling to places you suspect vacuum leak.

                  Carb cleaner, wd-40, throttle body cleaner and contact cleaner worked for me in the past in place of the starter fluid.
                  The safest thing to use is propane. Get yourself a propane torch, open it up a tad (don't light it) and start waving it around your intake valves, seals, and gaskets.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I used propane torch as well but didn't feel comfortable knowing that that propane tank is so large which I may have to position it up-side down in certain tight places to detect the leak. I could have attached a hose on the nozzle so that the tank can be kept up-right.

                    But why I need to bother that when those smaller spray things do the job just fine,,,,. But, I guess it's just me,,,,.

                    If you are talking about the use of smale butane torch that may work as well, on the other hand.
                    Last edited by oyajicool; 12-09-2012, 03:44 PM.
                    A&P-IA

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                      If you are talking about the use of smale butane torch that may work as well, on the other hand.
                      Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
                      But why I need to bother that when those smaller spray things do the job just fine,,,,. But, I guess it's just me,,,,.
                      Those sprays are more likely to ignite, and as they're liquid, you run the risk of burning up your engine bay. It seems counter intuitive because of all of the propaganda and warnings associated with propane, but it is actually much safer.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Based on my personal experiences over the years, use moderate amount of shots and I never have had fire issue. I am not saying there's none.

                        With liquid, I can see where I am shooting at. Also, you can use a long straw to shoot where you want to shoot at. I consider this is far more effective in finding the exact location of the intake/vacuum leak.

                        If it was me, as I said, I choose my method over propane or butane torch method any day.


                        OMG, I cannot believe I spelled "smale" when it should be "small".
                        A&P-IA

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thank you guys, this is helpfull I have a propane torch and I work at a hose shop so I can keep the tank upright and remote. I also have starter fluid. Is it easier to find a leak when the motor is warmed up or cold? I will also check and gap my spark plugs tomorrow after work. I had replaced them back in early spring, but you never know if anything has happened to them untill you take them out. Could my issue be poor valve lash? I had set my valve lash about a year and a half ago and have put 30k on my car since than.
                          Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
                          Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Its easier to check for leaks at low idle.

                            Move the propane slowly like 1 inch per second to find a leak. Propane travels downwards I believe so work your way down..
                            What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                            You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                            Retro!

                            Hater

                            I love nooBs...They make me look good

                            Comment


                              #15
                              alright I could not find a vacuum leak and I checked my spark plugs and they were at about 1.15-1.2 mm so I set them all to factory spec of 1.1 mm and I re checked my ignition timing and set it to 16 degrees advance still with in factory spec. My idle still fluctuates some times it will still sit at 750-1000 rpm for 5 seconds than drop to 500 and start fluctuating. Other times it will just drop to 500 rpm and start fluctuating but does not reach above 1k rpm.
                              Originally posted by Gummiegorilla
                              Damn CBs are like a Rubix Cube sometimes !!!!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X