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Old 07-23-2010, 12:51 AM   #1
Darkcloud
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ENG: Wire tuck

Since alot of members are asking whats involved in wire tucks and it soes seem like everyone wants to tuck their CB's and there is no guide on what to do. It's quite simple yet time consuming and there are different methods as to how to do it. Here is my method (note that to do not have A/C or PS) and I have 90 cb no ABS

THERE ARE 3 TYPES OF TUCKS

1.BASIC
2MILD
3.EXTREME


I went basic/mild tuck route, enjoy

I'AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS YOU WIRING UP

USE RUBBER GROMETS IF GOING THROUGH UNGUARDED HOLES THIS IS A WAY YOU DON'T GET SHORTS

Stuff needed


Split loom
Push mount tab zipties
scissors
electrical tape
Hobby knife
10mm socket
12mm socket
19mm socket
Ratchet wrench.

I don't have pics of the begining steps.


I started on the driver side

1. Remove the clips from the chasis that holds the wire harness.
2. Cut the tape or twist the loom by hand first for easier cutting (prevents cutting to deep in the loom nicking wires)

3. Now that you have wires out of the loom start organizing them. (not the best pic but you have an idea)


4. remove the fenders

5.Now that you organized your wires, remove the cowl unplug and remove the wind sheild wiper motor 2 10mm bolts for the wiper motor, to remove the cowl you'll need to remove the wiper arms 2 19mm bolts.

This how I tucked my wires for the driverside, I cut the rubber gromet wide enough to fit all the wires through


Then I pushed them through the water drainage hole( don't mind the hole above my mess up lol)



If you choose to keep AC and other stuff all wires and plugs will be routed the same way

When done the driver side should look like this.


Placement of the resistor box varies on you

1.Shock tower in it's original location
2.Behind the shock tower
3.behind or under the intake manifold
4.inside the cabin


Passenger Side
The first 3 steps are repeated.

This is how I routed my passenger side wires.

Remove the fuse box it should look like this when done


6.Remove the glove box to get access of the AC condensor and blower motor. Remove the 6 10mm bolts that hold them in place.

7.With the fuse box removed and AC condensor and blower motor,pull the passenger harness and fuse box harness through the fire wall.

Once you have the light harness in the cabin put the fuse box wires back in the bay ( it made taping and looming easier for me)


I chose this gromet to route the wires through. Cut it wider so ypu can fit the wires through. push the plugs through and gently tug the wires through.
(should look like this )


Then loom and tape and done


Fog harness also added. Widen gromet hole


Fog harness does not need to be cut or extended

This tuck is basic,the fuse box is is still in the bay. The Engine harness is still mounted on the shock towers just hidden better.

The only part of the harness that needs to be extended is the hi beam harness. extend them about 8in.

To hide the light harness you can choose one of 2 ways. 1. through the hole near the light under the fender or 2. under the headlights.

The hole near the headlights



Under the headlights (not a good pic)


If you have jdm headlights then get a conervsion harness or have one made. Hi beams have to be extended as well on the conversion harness.

Password jdm light conversion harness




When I start my engine harness tuck a DIY will be made

ANY ?'s just ask on the diy I will respond. I'm going more mild and extreme and will add on.

LMK What you guys think
__________________________________________________ ______________________
[b][JUNCTION BOX DELETION/B]

For those that don't know what a juction box is here is a pic

Reason for this deletion of junction box is that the box couldn't be mounted properly

In my case how I'm tucking I needed to cut them. It's absolutely fine to cut, the junction boxes are just grounds.

Stuff needed
WIRE CUTTERS
BRASS CONNECTORS
SHRINK WRAP
DRILL
1/4 DRILL BIT
2 Self tapping screws

So now that you have your junction boxes cut, strip each wire with wire stripper's. Then twist all the ground wires together.

Now get your brass connector

I chose this style connector


Clamp the connector on on the exposed ground wires

make sure the connector is on tight and shrink wrap


You can choose where you want mount the your new ground. Drill and secure.

If you choose to delete this make sure yotr wires are organized first.

After you finish. test your lights and make sure thet work


__________________________________________________ _________________________________

Routing VSS,CC,AND ENGINE HARNESS

For those that are going a more extreme tuck. Here is what I did, I took all of the wires/plugs and routed them through the fire wall on the driver side.



No grab the CC etc. them up and Ziptie them and find a place under the dash to hide them


I will have a pic soon of where I hid them

__________________________________________________ ________

Depining a engine harness and looming

Tools needed
1. a mini screw driver set
2.plug harness bible
3.expandable wire loom
4. heat shrink tubing

Make a harness plug bible if you have bad memory. there are alot of wires to keep track of


To get started you need to pop the white plastic cap out of the plug



Then you need to push the the pin up and pull


Last edited by Darkcloud; 11-15-2010 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 07-23-2010, 02:46 AM   #2
nine_deuce
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Looks good. Makes me want to do mine. Perhaps in time
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:29 AM   #3
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I'am 75 % finished with the harness I did find out some interesrting things about the engine harness

Just updated5/5/11

1.1 EGR wire connects to a plug on the driver harness the wire is green/yellow or green/white depending on the year of you cb

2. There are some wires that must be joind together at 1 point in order to function. The T-stat ground is a what I call a spider web wire which 2 ground wires lead to 2 of the cooling switches

Also there are 6 green/white wires that are linked together with 1 butt end connectors 5 wires lead to sensors, 2 wires power to 1 sensor under the dizzy,1 wire leads to the O2 sensor, 1 wire leads to the TPS, 1 wire leads to the IAT sensor. And the final wire goes to the main ecu harness plug



Materieals Needed
1/4in sleeving(expandable)
1/2in sleeving(expandable)
Heat shrink tubing
electrical tape
mini screwdrivers or picks

sleeving


Dizzy plugs
Get this plastic tab out to gain access




You will need to extend 3 wires, the O2 sensor wire, and the the 2 wires that go to the sensor under the dizzy (All these wires are green)

Must solder the green wires together
The sensors that join together with the green and white wires


For the Alternator you need to depin the alternator harness itself to sleeve it.
For the brown plug depin these 2 wire

Its the black/white and white/blue wires

For the grey plug

White/red and Green/yellow

How it should look when you seperate the alt harness


Now with the expandable sleeving, slide it over the wire harness



Last edited by Darkcloud; 05-18-2011 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:04 AM   #4
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nice!!

so when are you doing my ABS tuck..lol
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:17 AM   #5
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nice!!

so when are you doing my ABS tuck..lol
lol oh yuck.
F that in the A.
just delete it. permanant tuck.
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:31 AM   #6
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nice!!

so when are you doing my ABS tuck..lol
When your're READY
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:22 AM   #7
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Injector Resistor box. Where can we re-locate it to for the members that dont know.
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Old 07-24-2010, 12:16 PM   #8
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Injector Resistor box. Where can we re-locate it to for the members that dont know.
I'll have that up today or tomorrow
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:18 PM   #9
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Id suggest putting some protective boot or similar around the wires going through the sharp frame rails. it can cause shorts from the wires vibrating against the sharp edge rubbing away the insulation on the wires.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:28 PM   #10
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Id suggest putting some protective boot or similar around the wires going through the sharp frame rails. it can cause shorts from the wires vibrating against the sharp edge rubbing away the insulation on the wires.
I knew I was forgetting something thanx
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:15 AM   #11
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Updated
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:11 PM   #12
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Very nice son!!! Keep up the good work!!!
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:40 PM   #13
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heres how my interior looked as i was building my engine wire tuck harness.



heres after


and here are pics of my harness (crap quality pics.)- 100% mil spec wiring in all OEM colors and striping. brand new pins and connectors as well.



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Old 07-30-2010, 03:22 PM   #14
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Glad I could be of some assistance/inspiration. It's the other way around now. I haven't touched my car in nearly a month. Time to put it back together now. Too busy with the social/work life. Back to the CB.

Again, thanks for the re-motivation.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:10 PM   #15
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When moving that resistor box for the fuel injectors, did you have to extend the wires or anything?
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:08 AM   #16
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Glad I could be of some assistance/inspiration. It's the other way around now. I haven't touched my car in nearly a month. Time to put it back together now. Too busy with the social/work life. Back to the CB.

Again, thanks for the re-motivation.
HAHA no prob man I must have looked through your last pages of your mrt and got motivated even more
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:14 AM   #17
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When moving that resistor box for the fuel injectors, did you have to extend the wires or anything?
Depends on where you want to relocate it, some people cut and extend the wires,some keep the engine harness and resistor plugs together and mount the resistor box behind or under the IM
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:14 AM   #18
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This is looking really good so far! Looking forward to seeing more!
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:20 AM   #19
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I want to relocate the fuse box. would I just extend the wires, and run them through the fender?
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:46 AM   #20
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I want to relocate the fuse box. would I just extend the wires, and run them through the fender?
No need to extend wires to the fuse box, just pull the wires through the firewall and relocate the box, but where do you want to put the fuse box, under the dash would be best.
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