And what did you do for the map sensor? They told me to use the map sensor on the H22's tb, and just delete that black vacuum box with the map sensor.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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Noob questions for H swap
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The engine I bought is a OBD-1 1992-1995 JDM H22 from H motorsonline.
The MAP sensor I used was the stock one for the F22. It is in the black box mounted on the fire wall on the passanger side. All of the H22's I've seen have all been OBD-1 and they did not have a MAP sensor on the throttle body.
I was told that the throttle body with the MAP sensor mounted on it was an OBD-2 thing but, I DO NOT know this to for sure.
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The distributor was real easy, I just wanted everything to plug in correctly I didn't want to cut and splice anthing.
All I did was to carefuly take apart the H distributor, I made note where the peices came out from and how they were arranged I laid them out for a refrence when I took them apart. I used the F22 distributor so I could learn more honda distributors. All I needed was the internals of the F distributor so I could put them into the H distributor housing. I used the F distributor to learn how to take one apart
You must remove the distributor shaft from the distributors to take them apart. There is a snap ring that goes around locator tab, this is the tab that goes into the cam when installing the distributor.
There is an indexing mark on the bottom of the distributor. It is a line that is machined on the tab and there is one on the bottom of the body of the distributor, when they are lined up the rotor is also lined up.
You remove the snap-ring and then you can see and remove the taper pin that goes through the locator tab and the distributor shaft holding them in place. Remove the locator tab, Once this is done turn distributor over. DO NOT MIX H and F parts keep separate.
Undo everything you can on the top part up the distributor then there is 3 or 4 screwes holding an aluminum divider plate in place. There are more connections below, THIS is why you have to remove the distributor shaft. I tapped the shaft out carefuly with a hammer and a brass punch, and that's it. You need to remove the items below the plate as well and that's all.
Clean it I put some fresh grease where the bearing is in the bottom and put some on the distributor shaft where the bearing will be but not a lot. Then re-assemble, just reversing the process. Make sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder position, then replace the locator tab making sure the index mark lines up put the taper pin back in place and re-install the snap ring and doubble check your work. I think that was all.
Almost 2 years and 10 K miles not a single hitch. The reason I know you can have the index mark wrong is because I did it, I had the distributor 180 degrees out of time. I matched the index mark up but did not doubble check the rotor position.
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Map sensor swap thread. I did this about a year ago.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...3&page=2&pp=20
steve
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There's not supposed to be a stud there. It looks good to go to me.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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Originally posted by Flushcb View PostOh okay. I was a little worried for a sec. So it's only supposed to have one?
Id also go in and change the seals that have been sitting exposed, I bet the cam seals on the timing side are hard as rock now. Im sure all the seals are oem. Im just trying to save you heartache down the road. Plop that engine in as it sits and youll have a pretty boat anchor before you roll 10,000 miles.. but whatev its your stuff. good luck
edit: Oh I see the aftermarket timing belt tensioner pulley(no upper timing cover explained).. thats more of a B series thing. The timing cover is a lot more important then that wheel on a stock engine.Last edited by illinois_erik; 12-25-2013, 03:19 AM.
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Originally posted by Flushcb View PostI'll get to all that soon, I figured it would have a few bad seals. /: I'll be ordering some tomorrow then. I appreciate your help btw!
http://www.yonaka.com/Complete_Engin..._p/ymgk006.htm
When I ordered mine I found it on *bay for ~89 bucks. Gates timing belt. Password JDM billet cam seal plug.
If you have any more questions just ask, were all here to help. Good luck
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Postgood man, yw .. i just shake my head when people are amped up to swap in an H and do it fast, but keep the 20+ year old rubber inside, thrash on them then on here asking about leaking oil..coolant..blown up motor etc.,. I found a FULL gasket kit for fairly cheap and Ive been pleased with them. It includes 99% of everything
http://www.yonaka.com/Complete_Engin..._p/ymgk006.htm
When I ordered mine I found it on *bay for ~89 bucks. Gates timing belt. Password JDM billet cam seal plug.
If you have any more questions just ask, were all here to help. Good luck
JDM powered CB7
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