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Old 06-20-2019, 02:23 PM   #21
blazercrx
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What numbers did you get when you did the compression test?
Sounds like you forgot to unplug the resistor box if the plugs were soaked again.
There might be something to the fact that swapping back and forth between distributors wouldn't let you start it... maybe the wires are loose or broken...who knows.
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Old 06-20-2019, 02:38 PM   #22
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Yes a code 21 would go into limp mode. You can put the electrical guys of an f22 in a H22a housing yes. But you can swap shafts as the shafts are different. I swapped my H22a dizzy guts for my f22 dizzy and everything lines up fine.

Did it start on p13 Ecu? The motor should start even if vtec isnít working. Have you done a compression test yet? If you have fuel and spark then the only thing left is timing and compression. You said you double checked timing so look into compression. 40psi can sound like 180 psi so going of noise doesnít really confirm anything. How do you have your vtec wired up?
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:44 PM   #23
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I found some troubleshooting flowcharts for the H22a1 which is nice, and I ordered a new TD61u Dizzy , it will be here Monday. hopefully I can fix MIL 21 at the same time. I didn't do an actual compression test, I'll do that next time I'm there. I have the Vtec Sol to signal ground and Press Sw to ECU and engine ground. P13 is being used again, still no glimmer of a start.

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Old 06-20-2019, 07:22 PM   #24
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Which pin did you run the vtec wire and the pressure switch? Should be a4 for vtec solenoid and d6 for pressure switch.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Which pin did you run the vtec wire and the pressure switch? Should be a4 for vtec solenoid and d6 for pressure switch.
I ran wires from ECU pins A4 and D6 to the pressure sensor and solenoid but I couldn't figure out which one on the solenoid is supposed to go to ground, and the wires are just hanging out in the engine bay disconnected. I tested it both ways but still had the code. The colors aren't right because I didn't have a pre-existing connector on my harness for VTEC, so I snipped a green connector that looks like a coolant sensor connector and used it since it seems to be extra (Dunno why I have extra connectors but everything is plugged in to the right location and double checked with a DVM). The thermostat housing has a temp sensor that doesn't have a plug , but I'm not getting any codes. There's another one on the water elbow and its plugged in and gives me the temp gauge. I remember cleaning the VTEC solenoid assembly and fitting it with fresh gaskets, haven't tested it yet if it clicks when given 12v. Hopefully the new distributor gets rid of the lumpiness? Only part that I haven't ruled out
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:18 PM   #26
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You can bypass the pressure switch all together. All you have to do is tap d6 into a4 and that switch will constantly see a power and a ground. I ran my setup this way and never had issues.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:10 PM   #27
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does that mean run A4 to the solenoid and splice D6 in to it? so they both go to the solenoid? Will that get rid of the CEL?
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Old 06-23-2019, 10:00 PM   #28
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I had the single wire from the vtec solenoid go to a4. I then took one of those wire tap clamps and ran a wire from the tap clamps to d6. HAmotorsports breaks it down more.
https://www.hamotorsports.com/vtec-p...ng-bypass.html

I’m not sure it will get rid of the code 21, I know it will for code 22 which is the pressure switch code. But it’s worth a shot.

Also found this vtec flow chart. This would be my next step
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid...rk%22-1812135/

Also I’m wondering since you don’t have the connector connected at the thermostat if this could be messing with it. As VTEC won’t engage unless the engine is up to operating temps and I don’t think the Ecu reads from that plug. But you never know.
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Old 06-24-2019, 04:23 PM   #29
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Thanks for the advice, I'll hook my vtec up as you mentioned and see how it goes. I'll also see about wiring in that temp sensor by the t-stat. Currently waiting on my front step for a distributor and then hopefully I'm going out to work on it
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:22 PM   #30
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Lightbulb Eureka

So, I went out there yesterday. Still haven't been able to get rid of that code 21. HOWEVER, I took out my resistor spark plugs and put in the old non resister type, with all plugs out I turned the engine for a while to dry out the fuel. I tested my fuel pressure and it checked out, I changed the fuel filter, and I listened to the injectors with a screwdriver. Inj. 3 was not clicking, and 4 was clicking kinda weak. I turned the key with all systems enables, and it fired up instantly (In a tractor like fashion) I wiggled Inj. 4 and it went from running on 2cyl to 3cyl, injector 3 was not clicking at all, and it would explain the "wet" cylinder that I discovered when purchasing the motor from the junkyard. Ive changed EVERYTHING in this car except the injectors, fuel pump, and body related stuff. I'm going to install a fresh run of injectors and I am confident that will solve the lumpy idle, and bring my CB7 H22 to life BABAY! still gots to figure out vtec. I have A4 and D6 running to the solenoid, bypassing the pressure switch, still presenting the code. If I apply 12v to the solenoid, it clicks normally. So WTH?
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Old 06-28-2019, 05:28 PM   #31
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Good on the injectors. I was going to suggest that a couple days ago but my reply got lost in the 3g network lol.

Iíve used injector cleaning machines and basically you might be able to get them unstuck by force opening them. Use a ground test light or power probe, start the car and jump the ground of the injector. This will force it open allowing a lot of fuel to wash through it because itís 100% duty cycle. Donít hold it open for more than half a second or so. And you can do rapid on off on off to try to shake the injector insides. Iíve had success with this at 18V for really stuck injectors but regular 12v is fine.

Tcw-3 oil is also an amazing injector cleaner when coupled with 90% rubbing alcohol. Thatís what we used in the machine.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:31 PM   #32
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Update, still no go

I replaced the injectors with rebuit ones, I'm still having a lumpy idle issue/lots of black smoke. Could the EGR system be the issue? I'm going to try a different manifold on Friday. Jeez idk what else it could be at this point. Have replaced EVERYTHING. Time to try a manifold that hopefully isn't clogged up in its egr passages ?
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Old 07-09-2019, 08:25 PM   #33
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Video of how it "runs" currently

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7jqJaCkPwQ

I just filmed it and posted it to youtube on my phone so the quality is kinda poor but its plain to see it aint running good
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:06 PM   #34
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Did you confirm that you're getting current to the injectors? Might be electrical. Either they aren't being grounded at the ECU or the resistor box is faulty.
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Old 07-10-2019, 04:35 PM   #35
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can I use any F22 resistor box? Ill grab one from the wrecker. I picked up an H22A4 lower manifold and cleaned it up, gonna put on a block off plate and my current upper plenum to see if any difference is made. the old intake has severely ceased and rounded EGR bolts so I just grabbed a set of runners off a 97 lude for $30
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
still gots to figure out vtec. I have A4 and D6 running to the solenoid, bypassing the pressure switch, still presenting the code. If I apply 12v to the solenoid, it clicks normally. So WTH?
When using the P13, try not connecting the wire from D6, and just use the wire from A4 to the solenoid. See if you get a code 22, or even if the code 21 goes away. Also, do you have a solenoid that has a bolt in place of the pressure switch?
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Old 07-10-2019, 11:04 PM   #37
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another possible misfire cause eliminated, still misfiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by af_1132 View Post
See if you get a code 22, or even if the code 21 goes away.
I went out there today and changed the runners out for one with clean egr ports and a block off plate , installed it, gaskets and seals all look good, no vaccum leaks, MAP, TPS, IACV, IAT and injectors all plugged in, still runs like in the video.

Also, I tried disconnecting D6 and connected A4 to solenoid, reset ECU and no code 22, just the 21 still. Theres a pressure switch in place, I haven't used a bolt in its place. When the solenoid was installed it was cleaned and regasketed, and it clicks if given 12v.

I think all I have left to try is starting from scratch with a fresh F22 engine harness from the wrecker, opening it all up and labeling every wire to make sure they're all in the same spot. But I've tried unplugging the important ones and I get the corresponding code afterwards, so I honestly feel like I did okay with my auto trans f22 harness on a 5spd H22A1 … but who knows... I feel like I'm trapped in a nightmare lol I need this car to run , I have used every bit of my mechanical ability to figure this out and no matter what I try it doesn't fix the misfire. And I'm the guy in town that a lot of people call to figure out their cars, with a number of swaps and builds and crazy things I've done before. I'm trying to not let this cloud my passion for CB7's , its gotta be something silly I did wrong but I've basically gone over the build from start to finish over and over again now and nothing I have done has actually solved the misfire … Someones had to have run in to this problem before

Edit: If code 21 is constantly present, and code 22 doesn't occur with the pressure switch unplugged, and the engine misses and hesistates bad, is there a chance that both the PT3 and P13 ECU's are no good? I took the covers off and the circuitry looks perfectly fine, clean and undamaged. As for the TCU can that remain unplugged as its no longer an automatic?

Last edited by RabbittCB7; 07-10-2019 at 11:14 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:19 PM   #38
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could it be that the fuel pump is weak or FPR is bad? All four injectors work, spark at all four, compression in all four, no leaks. Ive basically redone everything multiple times and it just wont idle properly. No codes, except 21 when using P13. You are the CB7 wizards please help !
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:03 PM   #39
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Did you ever do a compression test? What map sensor are you running? I am not familiar with auto to 5spd so I can’t help you there. Do you have a known good p13 you can get your hands on?
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:38 PM   #40
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I think its an accord map sensor im not too sure, instead of being mounted to the fire wall I have it dangling from a short vaccum line to the throttle body, and plugged in. Compression tests ~185 in each cylinder I don't have any other ECU to try, just the P13 I got online and the PT3 that was in the car already
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