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Old 11-19-2018, 07:39 PM   #1
djALBINI
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LED conversion hyperblink..

So, I installed LED's in every bulb slot possible.. Looks great, but after 2 days of having my LED's and resistors installed, the turn signal marker lights in the front corners of my headlights do not turn off, even with the keys removed from the vehicle and the light switch turned to the off position.

Installed a new multiplexer unit due to having burnt internal components and the problem went away...

but guess what!?!? two days later the same problem persisted.. The corner lights do not turn off!! And dealing with a fully discharged battery to boot..

I don't want to burn through multiplex units every two days, so I am seriously contemplating not using resistors, saying FTW and just running a hyper blinking turn signal setup with all LED's still connected...

other info... I used Morimoto resistors, paired with XB Led's from the retrofit source in the front and rear for all the signal lights
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:32 PM   #2
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I see the Morimoto resistor is 7.5 ohms...should be enough. Can you take a pic of the open multiplexer?
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Old 11-20-2018, 03:17 PM   #3
illinois_erik
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youve gone through a lot, when you couldve just installed a solid state flasher relay. All my external lights are LED except the headlights, no resistors no problems. The only annoyance is the super dim corner lights from current leakage and the low forward voltage of diodes while the cars off. Hasnt chooched the battery even sitting for 2 weeks.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:21 PM   #4
djALBINI
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Is there any possibility of getting some help on installing solid state flasher relay? a wiring diagram perhaps.


That would be great sorry no pics of burnt multiplexer. I could clearly see a super rectifier diode puked its guts on the board, which explains the absolute forward voltage when it is not supposed to be there, plus two of the 704 PNP transistors had hot spots under them on the collector/base sides of em.. So yeah hope that explains a bit...
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:04 AM   #5
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It just replaces the OEM mechanical one. I bought mine from suprebright leds, theyre pretty generic, mine didnt fit quite right though so, i made an extension out of some short wires with crimp on spade connectors on both ends.
Nowadays they even have them at parts stores in the isle (most places at least)
There are also ones with a knob so you cant adjust the flash rate.


Sounds like the extra resistance of the ballasts drew way too many amps and smoked the multiplexer.




https://www.amazon.com/3-Pin-CF-13-E.../dp/B008C9YJ6C
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:59 PM   #6
djALBINI
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ok, went and pruchased an ep34 plug n play relay that makes the maximum wattage go from approx 27W to 168W of capable load.

I have yet to put my "new" multiplexer in yet because I do not want to fry this one without running the LED setup coupled with this relay first. If the old one gets messed up worse, then I'll have to run tests on all my wiring first.

Thanks for your help.
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