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    4 wheel thrust alignment

    I have a 92 accord ex coupe. I am about to finish installing my rear struts and going to get it aligned this week. Is the 4 wheel thrust alignment worth it on this car. I mean does it do anything to really make my car drive straighter. The shop only charges 10 more dollars so it isn't a question of money. I just assumed 4 wheel thrust alignments are for 4 wheel steering vehicles.

    #2
    Compared to how much you might spend on tires if alignment is off, I would go for 4 wheel alignment every time. If you plan on lowering the car, try to find a place that has a lifetime alignment deal. 2 trips, and it already pays for itself. I've lowered my car a few times, and gone to do an alignment probably more than a dozen times. It definitely got my moneys worth =]

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      #3
      Four wheel alignment is worth it. The only adjustment (from the factory) for the rear wheels is toe which is adjusted with a bolt with an eccentric head and washer where the forward of the two lower control arms attaches to the rear cross member. Don't be surprised if they tell you that the rear can't be aligned because those bolts are seized in the control arm.

      Ask me how I know - mine are frozen on Ruby (90 LX). I'm on the hunt for another cross member so I can make sure those bolts are free before I pull the cross member out of my car.
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #4
        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
        Four wheel alignment is worth it. The only adjustment (from the factory) for the rear wheels is toe which is adjusted with a bolt with an eccentric head and washer where the forward of the two lower control arms attaches to the rear cross member. Don't be surprised if they tell you that the rear can't be aligned because those bolts are seized in the control arm.

        Ask me how I know - mine are frozen on Ruby (90 LX). I'm on the hunt for another cross member so I can make sure those bolts are free before I pull the cross member out of my car.
        For some reason most stuff on my car doesn't seem rusted at all even though all the bolts have some rust. Call it luck so am hoping those aren't either. I already checked the rear control arm bolt to bushing and that is good. Is this the same bolt you are referring to?

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          #5
          No. I am referring specifically to bolt (31) and offset washer (32) where that control arm attaches to the cross member:



          Maybe you'll be lucky.
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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            #6
            Yall are always scaring me when i am attempting to fix something. Haha. Good to know as when i am under car tomorrow i will check as i don't want to pay a place to fix it unless it is hard or takes a mechanic more than 6 hours. Is this a hard thing to fix if it is rusted shut? Am assuming it isn't. I'll know more tomorrow.

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              #7
              Not trying to scare you; just want you to be prepared. If you're under the car tomorrow, you can try to check them yourself. Loosen the nut (53, 17 mm), then try to turn the bolt (31, 14 mm). Note the orientation of the eccentric washer before trying to rotate the bolt. If it moves, then move it back to the original orientation and tighten the nut (53). If it does move, you might want to try to take it out, clean it up (use a wire brush if rusty), then coat with anti-seize and reinstall.

              If the bolt won't rotate it is likely rusted into the sleeve in the center of the bushing (24). It is much easier to deal with if the cross member with control arms is off the car (which I understand is a problem in your circumstances). Off the car, one might be able to press the bolt out or cut the bolt/bushing sleeve to free the arm from the cross member, but then you need a new bushing or entire control arm and bolt.
              Last edited by Fleetw00d; 04-02-2017, 01:27 PM.
              90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
              08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                #8
                i had this bolt issue.... omg. Worst one on the car of all. Spent almost 3 hours with hawksaw in hand cutting through each side of it.

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                  #9
                  I found a 91 EX with only 137K on the odometer in a JY in Pensacola, FL, yesterday; I got the entire rear cross member with sway bar and all four control arms for $18. All the bolts including the offset ones came out easily. I'm going to clean this up and install on Ruby so I can get a complete alignment.
                  90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                  08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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