I hav a Snap On 1/2 cordless impact. I still have to use my 3/4 impact air gun on some of them. That's if my half inch Ingersoll won't loosen them first. I don't even try the cordless the crank bolts.
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If you have a corded impact you don't have to have a holder. Shoot I have seen a battery powered impact break it loose. Yes I have seen the 100 dollar one do it.Comment
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I just noticed you clean and oil the bolts before you put them back in. I hope you never plan on doing that with the crank pulley bolt, caliper bracket bolts, or some other bolts that require LOCTITE. Otherwise you are just making it easier for the bolts to walk themselves out.Comment
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haven't worked on the calipers yet but yeah I know the braking system components and oil don't work together.Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
Most of the bolts however haven't been out for a long time, most of them are calcified and they need the WD-40 besides I don't oil all the threads, I oil half way of the threads so that when I bolt it there won't be any excess oil reaching the head of the bolt which makes them susceptible to be over-torqued and break.
as for the crank bolt, the pulley rotates clock wise so it won't break of on the contrary that's why it becomes more tight especially if torque with an air gun instead of a clicker type torque wrench to spec.
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Straight from the Helms manual regarding crank pulley bolt: "apply engine oil to the bolt threads, but not to the surface that contacts the washer." I've been doing this for a long time with ALL fasteners, have never had a single issue. And I laugh when I see cars with lug studs snapped off, oil would've prevented that.
Crank pulley bolt torque 159 lb-ftComment
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No way the 1/4 hex impact drivers will do that job. The 18-20V ones are producing about 100-120 ft.lbs. of torque FORWARD. An impact doesn't have as much power in reverse! That being said, I use a Makita cordless 1/4" hex impact ALL the time working on cars......but I break the bolts loose first with a wrench then attach the impact and zip them out. FYI the 18V impacts will almost always break loose the 10mm head (6mm shaft) bolts and smaller but anything larger you need to wrench on first.
Milwaukee makes a 1/2" socket drive cordless impact that puts out well over 200 ft.lbs. That'd do the job but it's around $600 I think.
So, would a 1/4" hex impact help in general when working on your car? Absolutely. Do you need 18v? Not usually. You will find yourself needing something that'll fit in tight spaces much more often than you'll need the full 18v power. I'm getting ready to buy a tiny 12v Bosch impact specifically for auto work. It's tiny and makes 80 ft. lbs. max.......going to be perfect for almost anything you do.My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.Comment
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nice and logical analysis, paying a 600$ tool for home use is not a good choice, other impacts do not deliver enough torque, so for me the Pulley holder becomes a priority since I don't own a garage.Originally posted by 19dabeast85 View Post
by the way I saw your members ride, impressive really, I wonder how did you manage to clean that IM and other components to look that shiny.... what did you use exactly to clean it ?!Comment
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Crankshaft pulley spins counter-clockwise. The opposite of what you stated. And yes, it can walk itself out from not being torqued correctly or not having loctite. Trust me, I've had to deal with this before.Originally posted by EsperHamid View PostComment
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My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.Comment
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i usually wedge the special tool with a 18" breaker bar into the ground and then use my 48" breaker bar with probably 12-14 inches worth of extensions so i can clear the fender.
hasn't failed me since.Comment
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some people I've seen over the internet loosen the engine mount, so they get more access to the pulley then, they put the breaker bar between the cam shaft pulley and the chassis with no extensions which give them more power ... because the more extension you use the less power you loose, ironically the longer the breaker bar, the easiest to break that bolt loose.Originally posted by wed3k View PostComment
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this is true but with a 48" breaker bar, you can put tons of leverage behind it.Originally posted by EsperHamid View PostComment
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Booom Boooooooooooom Bammmmmmmmmmmmmm !!! .... I Finally got this stubborn bolt loose !!! .... New Method, may not be new to some but it worked !! WONDERS !!
NO Pulley tool needed !! I went to the Junkyard and they gave me a genuine pulley from an F22 engine ... and this is how I learned this method ...
what the guy there did ... is remove the rubber handle where you stick your timing light to adjust the timing, then he put a pry bar between the flex plate and the transmission and the pulled to the left ... this held the engine in place and it would no rotate ... while the other guy put a 19" socket with a breaker bar and on top of it a cheater bar .
As the first guy pushed firmly the pry bar to the left, the other loosen it .. he had to use his leg on the cheater bar ... and it broke lose !! WOW !!!
I took it and did the same .... bought a long pry bar, I kept pushing the pry bar with one arm and positioned the cheater bar @ an angle where I can put my body mass on it by standing on it ....... 2 - 3 - squeaks ... and BAM !!! Bolt Loosened !!
it was a glorious day for me ,,,, a wonderful discovery better than Indiana Jones and yeah believe it ,, I called it a day... didn't install the new pulley until the next day
One advice however, if you are a muscle guy ( I am not ) be sure to build your pressure exponentially ... DO NOT SHOCK IT with all your might.
Honda should do a Championship on loosening the pulley bolt
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