I found some threads on here about the Spc rear upper control arms, but my question is regarding the adjustment. There are two styles, curved and straight. The curved ones show jam nuts on either side of the adjuster. The straight ones don't appear to have any jam nuts. I wonder if that is one reason for the difference in price. Can anyone confirm this? I've never seen any in person, just pictures, and half the pictures say they may not be of the actual part.
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Spc rear upper control arm question
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They both use locknuts. The curve one is just designed for more extreme camber adjustment angles.
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This arm corrects rear camber problems on the rear of these vehicles by replacing the existing upper rear arm with this turnbuckle design. Camber is adjusted easily by loosening the locknuts and turning the center adjuster. This arm can be used on vehicles with stock ride height or on vehicles lowered up to 1 1/2 inch. Arms comes complete with a ball joint.
This is a just generic image being used on some sites
but here is what it looks like
This arm is for the specific purpose of correcting camber problems on vehicles that have been lowered up to 3 inches. The unique design allows for camber change without interference problems on lowered vehicles. Arm comes complete with a ball joint.
from CB.JOEYG
Last edited by Tishock; 03-25-2013, 08:51 PM.
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SPC claims that the straight design is for cars lowered up to 1.5"
The "bent" arm is for drops over 1.5", its helps with better clearance.
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From their site.....
"These arms correct rear camber on stock ride height vehicles and vehicles that have been lowered up to 1.5 inches with an adjustment range of -2.0 degree to +3.5 degree. 67065 comes with a non-directional ball joint preinstalled. (Extreme drops - use 67265, the bent arm)
Rear Adjustment range: Camber -2.00 degree to +3.50 degree Installation time: .5 hr/sideRequired: 1 per wheel"
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So I was considering the straight ones, figured they were good enough and could save some money, but then I thought of autocross. I throw the car through some sharp corners and regardless of my drop, those corners can really load up the suspension on one side or the other. I think I'll go with the bent ones to be safe.
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I don't have issues with the straight ones at all after several years. Maybe one finger gap and wide wheels and.wider CL rear lower arms. If you are tucking I would go with curved, anything bigger than no gap should be fine as long as you aren't on cut springs or anything stupid that will bottom out real hard.
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