Originally posted by AccordWarrior
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I agree. After I got the car I started looking into it. At the time I just wanted it cause it ran and drove... I thkught it was a 96. It was a 94... however. After pulling the motor we wound it to have aluminum heads and coil packs... must be lt4. Still obd1 tho. But at this point im keeping things stock. Just trying to make them fit. -
check out advanced induction for thier cam and port work head kits. they make 400whp which is not bad for a small block chevy but it aint no LS...
i use them for cnc port work on the LS heads and ive also seen one guy run ls1 coilpacks on the LT motors. the crank drive is off the crank pulley.Comment
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How much clearance do you think you'll have from the tunnel to the accelerator pedal? Looks mighty tight and mighty awesome, sir. Cant wait to see how you set up the rear end! I wonder what the weight distribution will be when it is all said and done. Regardless, if you finish it, drift it.Last edited by F22Chris; 04-21-2015, 01:50 AM.
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Def gonna havr yo shift the accelerator pedal over a few. Everything else looks like it should fit fine. The steering tunner clears thank god... this weekend ill have a better idea once I cut a big ol hole in the floor to make room for the trans tunnel.Originally posted by F22Chris View PostComment
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My goal for this setup is a drag car. So its staying auto and gets a shift kit. Thus no autox or drifting for me.Originally posted by F22Chris View PostComment
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Didn't Impala SS's have aluminum heads? It's been a while since I looked into LT1/LT4 stuff, but I used to know a pretty good amount about them.Comment
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From what ive read impalla ss are a y body chassy and the y body's came with lt1 with iron heads. My lt1 came from a pontiac wich is a f body and those came with aluminum heads.Originally posted by Chrisnick View Post
Im just sad cause I thought it was a lt4 and its just a lt1. Least the motor is 100lbs lighter than the iron hesded version. I really need to look at the casting numbers so I can get the full story on her.Comment
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You must be thinking of pre '94 Caprices. All Caprices (especially including the Impala) after '94 used aluminum heads.
The only way to get an LT4 was in a 1996 Corvette Grand Sport (blue with white stripe) or Special Edition (silver with black wheels), 1997 Camaro SS SLP with a 6-speed or the 1997 Trans-Am or Firehawk with a 6-speed. What you have is a run-of-the-mill LT1. There's nothing wrong with that, either.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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Ahhhhh nope. All b-bodies (Caprice, Impala SS) got iron head LT1's. Otherwise you are correct. All f-body LT1's got aluminum heads. Nothing special about them either, they flow about the same as the iron headsOriginally posted by Jarrett View PostComment
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Well, you would know, I guess. Sorry for the misinformation. That's a real bummer for B-body guys.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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Nothing special except that they run cooler and weigh approximately 30/40lbs less, per cylinder head, than their iron counterparts. Not to mention much easier to port and polish.Originally posted by Accrdwgnguy View Post
Last edited by GhostAccord; 04-23-2015, 02:08 PM.Comment
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Well, if you start out with a b-body LT1 there is no point in swapping heads unless you are getting aftermarkets. But none of that matters anyways since you already have the f-bod LT1.
Also, I don't see coilpacks.....Comment
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More Progress
Got a lil bit done yesterday. Finally got the firewall cut out of the accord. Was able to get the motor tucked into the car how it needs to sit and was also able to test fit a front wheel too... More to come but were gettin there
The motor as it should sit when mounted.
Def gonna loose some cabin space
The front wheel mocked up. About how she will look going down the road.
I had too options. one was to keep the engine farther forward to retain heat and leave the firewall alone. But since I was using the trans am craddel and didnt wanna have to cut and relocate the lower control arms further back on the craddel I opted to just shove the engine as far back as needed to keep the front wheels centerd in the fender wells. Sacrafice to get this done faster. And besides. Race Cars dnt need heat lol...Comment
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Oh you want heat?? Run the headers through the cabin.
This is coming along fast. Make sure you get good pics of the front and rear subframes for us too.Comment
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I am loving how fast you are progressing on this build. Keep it up!
As for heat, if you don't insulate that trans tunnel, then it will definitely warm up and you will be able to feel some heat coming off of it.Comment
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