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Old 02-09-2020, 04:45 AM   #1
FAMOUS_GODSON
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Question Car shuts off when stopping only ;/

I just saved a 93 SE sedan with auto trans from going to the junk yard. I bought the car in a police auction. 100% sure bumps lived in it. ;/ The car needs a lot of love the bright side is it only has 107k miles The car looks like it was parked a while. Car drove good 10 miles home with no issues until i started working on it. I did the oil and transmission fluid change and brakes. Then i cleaned the EGR and idle control valve i also changed all spark plugs and plugs gaskets with the new head gasket kit. After that i started having starting issues which was the main fuel relay.

Now the car drives good except when getting to a stop it just shuts off. it re-starts with no problem but once i get to a stop light shuts off unless i baby it to a stop.

These are codes i have right now
Check engine code 12

was also showing code 43 but got fix being the main fuel relay

D4 codes 1,2,3,7,8

was also showing code 14 but got fix when i cleaned the EGR intake manifold passage

I just finished doing the timing with light gun and replacing fuel filter but didn't fix the problem. I'm planning to do valve adjustment soon. I'm in the learning phase right now. Hope somebody can help me out
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:07 AM   #2
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Can you be more specific when you say "shuts off"? quickly shuts off? chokes itself out due to lack of fuel or air?

Does it idle fine once you restart?
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:52 AM   #3
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code 12 is your EGR, you cleaned the passage and the egr I would double check make sure you vaccum hoses are good, your connector is on tight and you torqued the egr valve down. 14 is Idle control valve, so its interesting you cleaned all these and then now you get codes. How did you clean them?
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:48 AM   #4
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Check your grounds and battery cables. I had damaged cables and a snapped fender ground, as well as a battery that wasn’t properly tied down. My car would shut off when things shifted as I stopped. Easy fix, but not an obvious first thing to look at!

Also consider replacing the ignition switch. It’s cheap and easy, and could also be a cause for a shutdown.

Finally, code 43 is most often a bad o2 sensor. If you find that the code comes back once you’ve driven for a while, replace your sensor with a Denso or NTK unit (no other brand... especially Bosch.)
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Old 02-09-2020, 01:24 PM   #5
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Here are two vids I uploaded on YouTube with the shutting off issue.

http://youtu.be/lffXwGeOu6E

https://youtu.be/uEZOrs8mhFI

I drove 10 miles to work today to test it and ran find until it shut off on every complete stop I made five times to be exact. The freeway exit too but it shut off before even coming to complete stop. It seems to happen when the rpm gets around 1000. Hope these vids help out.
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Old 02-09-2020, 02:54 PM   #6
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Here is a before and after of the EGR manifold passage. I used a coat hanger wire and brush to deep clean the passages also used a vacuum.




Last edited by FAMOUS_GODSON; 02-09-2020 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 02-09-2020, 03:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
Can you be more specific when you say "shuts off"? quickly shuts off? chokes itself out due to lack of fuel or air?

Does it idle fine once you restart?
I guess you can say it quickly shuts off once it get to around 1000rpm or complete stop. I included two youtube vids that I uploaded showing my issue.
http://youtu.be/lffXwGeOu6E

http://https://youtu.be/uEZOrs8mhFI

Last edited by FAMOUS_GODSON; 02-11-2020 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
Check your grounds and battery cables. I had damaged cables and a snapped fender ground, as well as a battery that wasnít properly tied down. My car would shut off when things shifted as I stopped. Easy fix, but not an obvious first thing to look at!

Also consider replacing the ignition switch. Itís cheap and easy, and could also be a cause for a shutdown.

Finally, code 43 is most often a bad o2 sensor. If you find that the code comes back once youíve driven for a while, replace your sensor with a Denso or NTK unit (no other brand... especially Bosch.)

Thanks for the advice deeverote, I'm definitely gonna check out the battery cables since I had to replace the negative cable when first purchase the car. Cable was all chewed up only had 3 inch from the frame. As for the ignition it seems to be pretty good doesn't jiggle or move at all. Thanks on the advice on the o2 sensor. I'm glad I had purchase the Denso o2 a while back for my other cb. I'm just gonna wait to see if the code pops up again to replace.
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Old 02-10-2020, 07:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAMOUS_GODSON View Post
Here is a before and after of the EGR manifold passage. I used a coat hanger wire and brush to deep clean the passages also used a vacuum.




Ahhhh what??
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:37 PM   #10
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What is your cold idle and normal idle rpm? Could it be that your idle is too low and it is stalling because of that?

Also check you brake booster, it may be leaking causing an excessive vacuum leak ending in a stall.
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Old 02-11-2020, 08:44 PM   #11
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have you tried putting it in neutral before coming to a stop? will the engine stall in that case, too?
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Old 02-11-2020, 09:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostwhite View Post
What is your cold idle and normal idle rpm? Could it be that your idle is too low and it is stalling because of that?

Also check you brake booster, it may be leaking causing an excessive vacuum leak ending in a stall.
I was thinking that was a the issue too Ghostwhite, so i ended up checking it too but everything seems fine with the brake booster. The idle at cold start is at 1,500rpm then at warm temp is 750rpm it seems normal. i compared it to my other cb.

i ended up doing the same steps like in this vid
https://youtu.be/_IIHgURXfLE

Last edited by FAMOUS_GODSON; 02-11-2020 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 02-11-2020, 09:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrizzly92 View Post
have you tried putting it in neutral before coming to a stop? will the engine stall in that case, too?
Chrizzly92, it does also stall in neutral doesn't make a difference. Today i was test driving it and notice that it also dies when making a U-turn even tho putting some pressure to the gas pedal. ;/...

Last edited by FAMOUS_GODSON; 02-11-2020 at 10:55 PM. Reason: Wording
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Old 02-12-2020, 03:11 PM   #14
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Ok Woh ...

Skip all the codes, forget the EGR. This is simply a IACV issue or a ELD. It's the job of the IACV to keep the idle from going too low and stalling. It's the job of the ELD to feed the ECU the info. There are other factors of course the ECU takes into consideration.

But thinking you cleaned the IACV it is now simply not working. Extra load on the engine (brakes) = stall.

Can you make it stall in park by reving and then jamming on brakes?
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Old 02-12-2020, 04:45 PM   #15
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I agree with Raf, the idle speed is not being maintained when there is a load on the system. The U-turn stalling is very telling, power steering brings the RPMs down, the IACV should be keeping them up to prevent a stall.
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Old 04-17-2020, 04:04 AM   #16
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Sorry about the delay guys i did end up changing the IACV as you guys recommended but still having the same issue and have not checked the ELD because i'm not sure how to check it or where it is located. I did also change the throttle body from the junkyard but ended up returning it because didn't fix the issue plus mine was in better condition .Too bad i ended up cleaning it for no reason ;/

I forgot to mention in the beginning of this thread that i used seafoam before i cleaned the intake passage and i think this is probably what caused the car to start stalling when getting to a stop light. The car itself got worst now i cant really drive at all because it just wants to stall once i step on the gas pedal or reach about a foot or two of road. I'm thinking of having a mechanic check it out but i feel like it just might be a simple sensor. I had seen this guy in Youtube having similar issue with his 94-96 Accord. He had explained that he ended up changing all different parts like me and nothing worked until he changed The ECU. What do you guys think???
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Old 04-17-2020, 07:56 AM   #17
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The ECU is definitely a potential culprit. Do you know anyone local with a CB7 that might let you borrow their ECU? Ideally you’ll want a PT6 from an automatic 92-93 EX (or any SE). A PT3 from a lesser and/or manual model would work, but wouldn’t be 100% correct. You’d need to drive around a bit on a new ECU to make sure it gets into closed loop mode.

ELD replacement would require replacing the fuse box under the hood. It’s integrated.
I don’t see how it would cause stalling, but electrical stuff is my weakest area. Raf99 usually knows what he’s talking about!
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Old 04-17-2020, 05:03 PM   #18
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How is the coolant level? If it is low, or not bled correctly, it can affect how the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) interacts with the IACV.
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Old 04-19-2020, 01:09 PM   #19
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deevergote, thanks for breaking down the ECU compatibility on the CB models and the ELD location. I was thinking of testing the ECU from my 93 Ex CB but wasn't sure was gonna work since being a manual. I'm definitely picking myself a junkyard ECU. If that doesn't fix it next step would be changing the ELD luckily i do have a spare complete fuse box that belong to a Wagon cb just need to find it in my garage. Hopefully Raf's and your advice gets my cb working good again. I'll shall let u guys know what happens ;]

Last edited by FAMOUS_GODSON; 04-19-2020 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 04-19-2020, 01:41 PM   #20
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fleetw00d, the coolant level seems fine the only issue i had was when driving freeway the temperature gauge would go down to cold so i figured the thermostat needed replacement. When replacing i realize that the thermostat was completely missing the previous owner only placed the thermostat rubber gasket. I placed a new thermostat but i did not do a coolant flush. Since your the second person to mention to me possible air in coolant definitely gonna change it out. Thanks
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