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Old 08-17-2018, 02:42 PM   #21
Jarrett
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Might I recommend doing the maintenance and a quick tune-up on that car, as well as the necessary repairs he's saying for the crankshaft pulley (though the vagueness here has me pretty worried for you), and just drive it for a while?

This accomplishes two things.

1) It allows you to go ahead and get rid of your other car that's causing you to have a monthly payment that you're looking to offload.

2) It allows you to take your time with the sedan and get it torn down slowly and methodically. This will allow you the perspective needed to see which parts need upgrading, repairing or maintaining without a time constraint. Check for bushings, stuck caliper slide pins, worn lines and hoses, leaking radiators...all that. Simultaneously, you're able to ensure that the engine you're hoping to use as the transplant is up to the task of ultimately powering your daily driver. Ultimately that means determining whether or not the engine has a blown head gasket, bent valves, worn rings, a bearing on its way out, and similar issues that are beyond the scope of what would be addressed if the engine were out of the car to go into another one, anyway.

It sounds like you've got a great platform to start with. That coupe will also be useful for parts once you pull the engine from it.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:05 AM   #22
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Might I recommend doing the maintenance and a quick tune-up on that car, as well as the necessary repairs he's saying for the crankshaft pulley (though the vagueness here has me pretty worried for you), and just drive it for a while?

This accomplishes two things.

1) It allows you to go ahead and get rid of your other car that's causing you to have a monthly payment that you're looking to offload.

2) It allows you to take your time with the sedan and get it torn down slowly and methodically. This will allow you the perspective needed to see which parts need upgrading, repairing or maintaining without a time constraint. Check for bushings, stuck caliper slide pins, worn lines and hoses, leaking radiators...all that. Simultaneously, you're able to ensure that the engine you're hoping to use as the transplant is up to the task of ultimately powering your daily driver. Ultimately that means determining whether or not the engine has a blown head gasket, bent valves, worn rings, a bearing on its way out, and similar issues that are beyond the scope of what would be addressed if the engine were out of the car to go into another one, anyway.

It sounds like you've got a great platform to start with. That coupe will also be useful for parts once you pull the engine from it.
Exactly! Same idea I had in mind.

Since I now own a manual, I am leaning towards leaving my auto 4dr auto, but add LSD and a low 6-9PSI daily boosted f20B. What are the absolute parts I should get before going with a daily driver low boost car?
For instance, new pistons, rods, etc, I am willing to change these types of internals as long as no machine shops are required.
I am not into racing or driving crazy. I am more concerned about longevity but good fun power.

I would imagine a setup of this nature could do 220 WHP pretty easily without really stressing internals (GRANTED the TUNE is right)etc..and for that, I am providing HONDATA S300 full package for the tuner.

With my idea of the f20b, would/could I get the Manual version ( more aggressive cams) and bolt it up to a MP1A LSD auto tranny?
Or perhaps the h23 with auto LSD?
I see there is a good amount of info on here for the f20b swap too but not as much as h22. I am considering the f20b/h23 because their much cheaper and as far as bolt patterns seem to line up with our cb7's without too much fuss.

Last edited by Jarrett; 08-20-2018 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:41 AM   #23
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If your plan is to keep the sedan automatic, and to entertain between an F20B or H23A, then I've missed the point of acquiring the other car, then.

For the sake of giving you the information you're asking for, yes, either scenario will work. The trick to either will be finding an MP1A with an LSD. That transmission was available in both North American and Japanese markets, but only Japanese market MP1As were available with an LSD. Key word is available, as not even all JDM MP1As had them. I've owned two. One with and one without. Both from JDM Accord SiRs.

If you're looking to avoid machine work, presumably due to cost, then know that anything you do with these engines and forced induction will be on borrowed time. Of course, mild driving habits and a lower power setup will go far toward extending the life of your engine, but these engines we're simply not designed to handle higher cylinder pressures. They do have the advantage of being cheap, though. So, if you were to break ringlands on a piston, you could buy a new F20B for $600 or an H23A for $900 and start over. Sell off the usable parts from the previous one to cover new fluids, seals, gaskets, etc. It's not the way I would want to go, but it's possible.

My vote is always going to be for the H23A over the F20B. The displacement difference is noticeable, especially with low-RPM street driving. This will be especially true with the automatic that will be less friendly toward high-RPM power.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:16 PM   #24
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thought?

Wouldn't a f20b (Higher Revving version etc) BOOSTED, in a long LSD geared automatic, be a good thing????
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:19 PM   #25
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My vote is always going to be for the H23A over the F20B. The displacement difference is noticeable, especially with low-RPM street driving. This will be especially true with the automatic that will be less friendly toward high-RPM power.


To this point thoug, perhaps h23A boosted with auto LSD????
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:53 PM   #26
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Ok I’m going to be your reality check. You will not be able to buy an h23/f20b, boost it and hope that it will last you longer then a year. You are literally all over the place with your ideas. That transmission alone will cost you as much as the engine.

You need to seriously figure out what you want to do and go with that. You bought an accord with everything you wanted except the LSD. And now you are changing your mind and throwing a turbo in the mix. If you were to build a proper turbo kit it would cost you well over 5,000. Believe me there are members on here including myself that will vouche for this.

If I were you I would get the 600 dollar accord running right and use that as my daily. Then I would save up money and start sourcing parts for your dream build. I am well over 10k in my current build and I am close to being complete. Not to the point were I want it but to were my cb will be boosted again.

If your planning on boosting then I would go f20b as it has iron sleeves but both motors are going to require some maxhine work if you want to make it last. As well as only run 5psi max.

Also I have not seen someone boost an automatic and the transmission last long either.
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:08 PM   #27
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smac you are all over the place man You get a gift from God with this cheap coupe and you start thinking of ways to get in more trouble.....

I would leave the 93 LX alone outside of bolt ons and suspension work... find a clean 5 speed shell and swap the H22 stuff over to that. No it's not as sexy and Internet cred friendly as a "turbo auto F20B!" but it's realistic and reliable, which anyone who has actually built project cars will tell you is more valuable than sex appeal. Especially on a budget with no experience. Use your head man...
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im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:23 PM   #28
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Ok I’m going to be your reality check. You will not be able to buy an h23/f20b, boost it and hope that it will last you longer then a year. You are literally all over the place with your ideas. That transmission alone will cost you as much as the engine.

You need to seriously figure out what you want to do and go with that. You bought an accord with everything you wanted except the LSD. And now you are changing your mind and throwing a turbo in the mix. If you were to build a proper turbo kit it would cost you well over 5,000. Believe me there are members on here including myself that will vouche for this.

If I were you I would get the 600 dollar accord running right and use that as my daily. Then I would save up money and start sourcing parts for your dream build. I am well over 10k in my current build and I am close to being complete. Not to the point were I want it but to were my cb will be boosted again.

If your planning on boosting then I would go f20b as it has iron sleeves but both motors are going to require some maxhine work if you want to make it last. As well as only run 5psi max.

Also I have not seen someone boost an automatic and the transmission last long either.

I really appreciate the input and experience here, however I think you all are cutting Honda's WAY short. Hating as it were.....

I owned a DD almost two years boosted 95civic 4dr Lx JDM D15BVtec that I put together along with a couple co-workers. After blowing two motors ( I havent learned how to tune YET but will soon hopefully) I found someone local who originally tunes DSM motors that tuned my automatic stock tranny JDMD15bVtec and I ran 7-10psi for almost two years!!!

I sold this car running like a champ and never heard a peep from a chic heading off to college in it...

I would add the following items that I had to the list in fairness.
93 Octane only
Greddy Turbo Timer
Full header wraps
Kept AC and Ran both fans ALOT because its Orlando Fl and its 110 degrees in the shade like every day....

Are the civic trannys that much better than accords? I see them as Honda and making alot of different kinds of everything for car engines/transmissions and they seem to just keep going....and going.......and going.....as long as you get a reliable tune and do your routine maintenance etc...
WATCH your gauges ( its kinda what they were designed todo in the first place ) as they have helped me on NUMEROUS occasions in the past......
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:37 PM   #29
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Man this is really hard. I am putting alot of pressure on myself in getting something ordered by tomorrow night. There are a ton of great options to go with and NONE of them are bad because after all, it will more or less be estimated 200HP more in my clean body cb7, with a new engine. This is SO sweet. I have liked the cb7 for a long time...

I am seriously considering 92-95 h22a JDM because its 200HP roughly and OBD1 would mean I wouldn't have to swap that too. To me this would "feel" easier?? Is this wrongful thinking??

Also same thoughts with boost here. Is boost completely out of question here even if only 5-7psi?
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:06 PM   #30
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Man this is really hard. I am putting alot of pressure on myself in getting something ordered by tomorrow night.
Why?
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im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:19 AM   #31
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Why?
Because if I can complete my goal before the remaining 23ish days left, I begin to start saving $500+ a month from that point on.......

Ordering the parts and actually getting them take awhile as you know. I feel if I can get something ordered by today COB, I have a good chance of getting it done. The 4dr will be in my driveway probably tomorrow night sometime where I will begin f22 Removal Guide...
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:32 AM   #32
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If you dump the $2700 you have on hand into these projects, you won't start "saving" for another 5 months....

If you want to start saving right away, leave the CB alone and drive it as is.
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:00 AM   #33
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[quote=If you want to start saving right away, leave the CB alone and drive it as is.[/QUOTE]

If it ran reliably maybe. The 4dr isnt running reliably right now thus the new heart....
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:20 PM   #34
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is either of them running reliably?

If that's a NO, then you need to STOP with the modding, and get them RUNNING RELIABLY.

Otherwise youll be back at square one in a year or less.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:31 PM   #35
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This keeps getting better.

So of the 3 cars you have, you're going to sell the one that's running reliably, and instead of fixing the one that could be running reliably easily, you're going to try and do an engine + transmission conversion with no tools or experience....

With a time deadline....

And a budget....

To save money................
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:08 PM   #36
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This keeps getting better.

So of the 3 cars you have, you're going to sell the one that's running reliably, and instead of fixing the one that could be running reliably easily, you're going to try and do an engine + transmission conversion with no tools or experience....

With a time deadline....

And a budget....

To save money................
Internet gold right here. Glad I stopped by.

Ok, so I need a quick recap because this thread is everywhere and nowhere.

Budget: 4,000 Pesos
Timeframe: 30 days (at time of OG posting.)
Goal: Fun, fast daily with AC (Pretty generic goal, but let's run with it anyway), that will last a minimum of 5 years

Your ideas range from engine swaps, to turbos, to manual swaps, to turbo autos. You will end up in a hole without a solid plan. Listen to these older members. They have been through some things...

You spend $700 on a Hondata system...that will need tuning +$$$, and will probably sit for a while and collect dust.
Now you're at $3300

God dropped a dope CB in your lap for a cool $600.
Now at $2700

You are beating yourself up wondering which turbo route to go, but you have TWO barely running CBs AND a car note still...

If you can't get the maintenance done on a stock CB or a swapped CB, why complicate things with a turbo? This is where you get experience. The small stuff.

P.S. A H23A can make 220 WHP with just bolt ons and will be infinitely more reliable than a turbo stock block.
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:46 PM   #37
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Internet gold right here. Glad I stopped by.

Ok, so I need a quick recap because this thread is everywhere and nowhere.

Budget: 4,000 Pesos
Timeframe: 30 days (at time of OG posting.)
Goal: Fun, fast daily with AC (Pretty generic goal, but let's run with it anyway), that will last a minimum of 5 years

Your ideas range from engine swaps, to turbos, to manual swaps, to turbo autos. You will end up in a hole without a solid plan. Listen to these older members. They have been through some things...

You spend $700 on a Hondata system...that will need tuning +$$$, and will probably sit for a while and collect dust.
Now you're at $3300

God dropped a dope CB in your lap for a cool $600.
Now at $2700

You are beating yourself up wondering which turbo route to go, but you have TWO barely running CBs AND a car note still...

If you can't get the maintenance done on a stock CB or a swapped CB, why complicate things with a turbo? This is where you get experience. The small stuff.

P.S. A H23A can make 220 WHP with just bolt ons and will be infinitely more reliable than a turbo stock block.

Not quite.

Corrections below

correct on budget stuff
correct on already purchased HONDATA
incorrect on my ideas. Here my idea is engine swap for sure 100%, tranny 50% on what todo whether I want to find a LSD auto or not.
I have decided for sure to keep the auto, an auto for now since I own the stick. Later I can always do this swapetc.
The engine purchased will be like new practically with very low miles. Even boosted with a great tune wouldnt/shouldnt have any issues lasting 5 + years = 60k miles with routine maintenance as usual......as stated I am a Honda fan/believer

And I'm not even sure where you got off track with this one, "
If you can't get the maintenance done on a stock CB or a swapped CB, why complicate things with a turbo?" Really?? You dont know me or how I maintain what vehicles I have so how do you make a claim as such? I most certainly can get the maintenance done and WILL. I am fully confident that I will be able to achieve my goals.

I think folks need to try and be a little more positive. I get it, I opened myself to criticism by posting here for advice. However note this, with me, your probably wrong if your making assumptions I dont know what I am talking about. I joined over 7 years ago and have READ alot on this site where my excitement grew. Please dont ruin the fun.... I am 39 and have been working on cars in general since 16. There are not many jobs I havce not completed at 1 time or another...

cheers

Last edited by smac; 08-21-2018 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:26 PM   #38
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Great!

Let's revisit the swap. You said previously that you are looking for 220-ish whp. You don't need a turbo AND a fancy swap to achieve that. Hell, JDM92_accorn surpassed that with a naturally aspirated F series. (Long live the F)

Is that your HP goal for the project? Or do you want more?
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:28 PM   #39
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Not quite.

Corrections below

correct on budget stuff
correct on already purchased HONDATA
incorrect on my ideas. Here my idea is engine swap for sure 100%, tranny 50% on what todo whether I want to find a LSD auto or not.
I have decided for sure to keep the auto, an auto for now since I own the stick. Later I can always do this swapetc.
The engine purchased will be like new practically with very low miles. Even boosted with a great tune wouldnt/shouldnt have any issues lasting 5 + years = 60k miles with routine maintenance as usual......as stated I am a Honda fan/believer
Still does not make sense.

As said earlier, unless its an f20b, its going to need machine work(which you don't want to pay for) to have any real longevity. Yes, you can run boost on stock internals, but its really just a matter of when, not if.

I think you should bring the AT cb up to par, maintenance wise. Make it a solid DD. Then find a clean ass shell to swap the 5spd stuff over too. While doing that, you can clean it up/replace/repair and take your time, and do wire tucks etc and do it right since you will have a reliable DD with the auto.

Youll also be free of your car note, which will give you around $500 if I remember correctly per month to address other issues as they come up(and they will).
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:08 PM   #40
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And you'd be crazy to buy an engine sitting in a Japanese junkyard for ~20 years without doing any maintenance on it. The engines have low mileage but they're not "like new" at all.

The fact that you are buying parts when you don't even know what you want to build, instead of doing repairs on the car you are going to need to get around once you sell whatever you are paying a note on... it's amazing. You are making some really bad decisions.
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