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Old 08-21-2018, 02:29 PM   #41
Grumpys93
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Smac,

We are all positive here and are a close community. You said you built a civic with a turbo on it that lasted for who knows how long. Regular maintenance on a car won’t prevent the weak ringlands from cracking and kissing your compression goodbye. Instead of asking us our opinions on everything and being upset with what we have to say.

Why not just tell us what you are going to do and we will guide you through the process. But putting in more powerful components on a 25 year old chassis without doing the necessary repairs first sounds like a disaster in the making.

So tell us what are you going to do? Pick one project so we can all focus on it. Right now you have 2 and the only person I know that was able to juggle 2 projects was NWaccord, but in reality one cb was his cousins and the other was his.
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:57 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
Hell, JDM92_accorn surpassed that with a naturally aspirated F series. (Long live the F)
This is the route I am currently taking.

These guys are not assuming anything about you, or trying to dishearten you. They are simply trying to bring you back down to planet Earth. It is really easy to get carried away dreaming. Budgets are easy to blow, we all just want you to have a good time.

These cars are plenty fun but are getting pretty old and will need some love to get back to par before you really can start modding them. Otherwise you WILL end up with a big headache and possibly end up throwing in the towel on it before you really even get started.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:14 PM   #43
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And I'm not even sure where you got off track with this one, "
If you can't get the maintenance done on a stock CB or a swapped CB, why complicate things with a turbo?" Really?? You dont know me or how I maintain what vehicles I have so how do you make a claim as such? I most certainly can get the maintenance done and WILL. I am fully confident that I will be able to achieve my goals.

I think folks need to try and be a little more positive. I get it, I opened myself to criticism by posting here for advice. However note this, with me, your probably wrong if your making assumptions I dont know what I am talking about. I joined over 7 years ago and have READ alot on this site where my excitement grew. Please dont ruin the fun.... I am 39 and have been working on cars in general since 16. There are not many jobs I havce not completed at 1 time or another...

cheers
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Another Idea I had, was to swap h22 or f20b, but just stay auto right now to save some cash and get some more experience under my belt. However, this is silly thinking, knowing I am gonna have everything completely apart anyways at that point and could figure it out I am sure anyhow...
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The car drives but needs crank pulley replaced Im told. I will know more tonight when I get her home...
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If it ran reliably maybe. The 4dr isnt running reliably right now thus the new heart....
Please note that no one in this thread has made any assumptions. This is all information that you gave to us.

We are trying to help you, honestly, but you aren't making it easy.

You may think we are being negative, when in actuality, we are being realistic.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:28 PM   #44
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This is the route I am currently taking.

These guys are not assuming anything about you, or trying to dishearten you. They are simply trying to bring you back down to planet Earth. It is really easy to get carried away dreaming. Budgets are easy to blow, we all just want you to have a good time.

These cars are plenty fun but are getting pretty old and will need some love to get back to par before you really can start modding them. Otherwise you WILL end up with a big headache and possibly end up throwing in the towel on it before you really even get started.
This is the route I am currently taking as well, but with an F23A1 instead of an F22Ax or F23A block and F22Ax head. You have options, but you really need to setup a solid plan for yourself first. Pick an engine, pick what your goal is, and try to accomplish said goal.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #45
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Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed. Ralphie is damn fine. Damn fine, indeed.
I am on around a dozen forums. That may or may not seem like a lot to you, as I won't assume anything about you, as you think that we are.

Some of these guys are on twice that amount of forums, so they can vouch when I say that this is probably the nicest and most family like forum youll probably ever come across.

Anything of this age, needs to be brought to a baseline standard before doing serious work too it. The work you are talking about, especially FI and custom tunes, people just don't really do on stock setups because A) its a huge waste of time, effort, and money when something catastrophic happens and you have to start from scratch, and B) you will probably end up with stupid issues that plague the build and make it not as enjoyable that could be avoided if you make sure everything is squared away.

In the end, its your build and people will still help you, but you have to take a step back like as has been mentioned and focus your energy into one area.

You claim you have been reading on here for 7 years, but you seem a little lost with some of your posts.

I do not doubt you have the ability to get it done, I just think you need a bit of guidance and to be open minded AND realistic about what you're trying to achieve.
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Old 08-22-2018, 08:31 AM   #46
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This is the route I am currently taking as well, but with an F23A1 instead of an F22Ax or F23A block and F22Ax head. You have options, but you really need to setup a solid plan for yourself first. Pick an engine, pick what your goal is what it, and try to accomplish said goal.

I had initially thought about keeping the F22A6 block and head, and just going big bore (like 90mm custom pistons) with a redline of around 7,000 RPM. But not long after I even started thinking of that, i shifted to F23 bottom with K20a pistons rotated 180 and forged rods. F22a head with extensive work and a hardweld cam about as bold as jdm_accorn. RDX injectors etc. Almost a copy of what accorn did. My plan is laid out across 3 pages in my build book (a spiral notebook comprised of every build I've ever done back to the 90's) and covers everything down to the type of oil and heat range of spark plug i want.

A solid plan is a must, basic understanding of theory and operation of the STOCK systems is a must before you try to modify it. Having a solid baseline to work off of (working like it did from the factory) is a must.

If this was mine, I would use the the money I have to get the H powered coupe running properly, fix all the oil leaks, etc. so I could DD it. Then get rid of your car payment, then start tearing down the auto CB to methodically build using the money I'm saving every month. That ~$500 will add up quickly to build the auto if that's what you want.

*edit* I don't see flip flopping around while figuring out what direction you want to go in as a bad thing, and bouncing ideas around in a forum like this can yield a different perspective and reveal things you may not have thought of as a flaw. Flip flopping can be a bad thing if you are trying to rush it, or start buying parts before you have a concrete plan.
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:17 AM   #47
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I have purchased the f20b auto version 180HP. I considered the manual version (200HP) but am afraid my automatic wouldnt be able to take advantage of the higher revs anyways as I dont control the shift points with an auto. If/when I decide to switch this car to manual, I would get the other cams that make most of the difference at that time...

Now, I would like to spend some money on improving this motors reliability to hold low boost in anyways possible while the engine is out of car and easier to reach everything. (I am purchasing an engine stand but not considering part of this build as its been a wanted/needed tool long time now). This means I am looking to change some internals and or bolt ons that would increase reliabilty but added power etc..
I am considering this kit for certain. http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=196

and this one too http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=748

Please share with me any bare bone upgrade necessaties to a motor you would do to hold low boost....

Last edited by smac; 08-22-2018 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 08-22-2018, 10:14 AM   #48
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*sigh*

OEM bearings are fine
OEM valves and valve springs are fine

Replace ALL your seals with new OEM parts.
Your ringlands are typically the first failure point.
Get a manual tensioner and balance shaft delete kit. You'll appreciate the extra oil pressure.
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:25 PM   #49
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Looking forward to seeing where this thread is in a month.
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im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:31 PM   #50
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Ok so now we are getting somewhere. So you went the f20b route which has the iron sleeves so that’s a plus for turbo. But I would purchase rods and pistons as well as a complete bottom end gasket kit for the motor.

Where did you purchase the motor from?

No need to waste your money on valve springs and retainers, like sonik said OEM will Be fine.
Most definitely convert the auto tensioner to manual kstuned sells both the conversion as well as the balance shaft delete kit.

I would honestly get the H22a coupe reliable with the remaining money first though. Then use your extra 500 a month for your projects.
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Old 08-22-2018, 01:49 PM   #51
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Looking forward to seeing where this thread is in a month.
ThankS, and I literally started smiling ear to ear.....
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Old 08-22-2018, 10:02 PM   #52
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Ok so now we are getting somewhere. So you went the f20b route which has the iron sleeves so that’s a plus for turbo. But I would purchase rods and pistons as well as a complete bottom end gasket kit for the motor.

Where did you purchase the motor from? JDM Orlando where I have purchased before.

No need to waste your money on valve springs and retainers, like sonik said OEM will Be fine. Gotcha
Ordered this auto tensioner to manual kstuned sells both the
Ordered this balance shaft delete kit.
My answers above^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 08-22-2018, 10:16 PM   #53
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Guys I need your help. When I went to buy the 2dr with h22a4 motor, someone stole the dizzy and I think they cut the harness where the dizzy connect to car harness.

Can you guys confirm this below? Whats the cleanest way to go about fixing this?





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Old 08-22-2018, 10:25 PM   #54
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Here are some other pics I ve taken of the two "platforms"






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Old 08-23-2018, 07:14 AM   #55
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The 100% way is to replace the engine harness.

Next best is to grab a distributor with the same style pinout and cut the pigtail about 4" down and crimp or solder (preferred) to your existing harness. Be careful with these connections because they carry the VR signals from the sensors. Make sure you have a very good connection.

Do not twist and tape. It won't work for long.
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:01 PM   #56
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That harness looks dangerous all those twist connectors and it seems every wire is spliced. I would get a new wire harness from the junkyard and just extend the o2 sensor, and add the sub harness for the vtec solenoid, knock sensor. Also why would someone only steal a dizzy? So did you ever verify the engine is good and starts?
Also looks like your water temp sensor is busted, and your missing your sensor on the waterneck.

Also I like the sharkfin antenna on the four door. Was it a clean install? Curious to see more pictures of it. Body looks good from the angles that you took the pictures of.
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:10 PM   #57
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That harness looks dangerous all those twist connectors and it seems every wire is spliced. I would get a new wire harness from the junkyard and just extend the o2 sensor, and add the sub harness for the vtec solenoid, knock sensor. Also why would someone only steal a dizzy? So did you ever verify the engine is good and starts?
Also looks like your water temp sensor is busted, and your missing your sensor on the waterneck.

Also I like the sharkfin antenna on the four door. Was it a clean install? Curious to see more pictures of it. Body looks good from the angles that you took the pictures of.


since Im gonna use my own harness for my swap, I think I am gonna try and use pieces from this new motor harness hopefully to get the other motor running. Is this even possible??

Can I use this motor as is with the sensors connected and then just buy a obd2 to obd1 converter then into my HONDATA S300??


I would like to use this motor as much "as is" as possible.
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Old 08-25-2018, 08:21 AM   #58
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The OBD2 bits won’t plug into the OBD1 harness. You’d be halfassibg a lot to make it work. Converting the engine to OBD1 is going to be the most straightforward, reliable, and ultimately easier way of doing things.
Don’t choose to swim across the ocean because you think airports are a hassle.
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:37 AM   #59
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The OBD2 bits won’t plug into the OBD1 harness. You’d be halfassibg a lot to make it work. Converting the engine to OBD1 is going to be the most straightforward, reliable, and ultimately easier way of doing things.
Don’t choose to swim across the ocean because you think airports are a hassle.

TRUST ME, if I havent stated it yet, this job will be done RIGHT!!! I dont/wont take any shortcuts. I am asking questions because I am not sure on alot of things right now. I am for sure 100% on workmanship, cleanliness, and doing jobs RIGHT the first time.

Maybe I missed it laid out but I am looking for the most straight forward instructions you have. I am willing to buy whatever sub-harness or whatever to keep this swap clean and "OMEish" as humanly possible....
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:42 AM   #60
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HERE SHE IS.......SHE CLEAN NOW BUT WIL BE SPOTLESS SOON......









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