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Old 02-24-2015, 11:41 PM   #1
fleetw00d
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ENG: Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) Repair

Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV) Repair:

This assumes the FITV has already been removed from the intake plenum. It is mounted with 10 mm hex head screws.

The valve operates on engine vacuum. The bottom of the spring loaded plunger rests on the top of the thermal valve plunger. The adjustable piston (pale yellow part) controls the spring preload of the plunger on the underside of the adjustable piston. High engine vacuum during a start pulls the plunger down, admitting extra air to the engine. As the engine coolant temperature increases, the thermal valve extends, increasing the preload on the spring to the point that it overcomes engine vacuum and closes the valve.

Cranking the adjustable piston all the way down solves the surging idle problem (but negatively affects the cold start idle) by clamping the piston down against the yellow ring of the poppet assembly, stopping the air leak around the piston.

NOTE: To solve the typical surging idle problem, all you really need to do is replace the piston and cover o-ring; this can be done with the FITV installed on the intake plenum.

Tools:

Phillips screwdriver

Supplies:
- Size 2-026 o-ring for the top cover
- Size 2-019 o-ring for the adjustable piston
- Size 2-018 o-ring can be used in place of the oval seal between the valve and the intake plenum
- Size 2-016 o-ring can be used in place of the round seal between the valve and the intake plenum

Note: These four o-rings can be almost any material as they only come in contact with air. I suspect the original o-rings are something like a nitrile that takes quite a compression set over time at temperature.

If for some reason you need to remove the lower (engine coolant) section, these two should be ethylene propylene to be compatible with anti-freeze.
- Size 2-024 o-ring for the outside seal
- Size 2-011 o-ring between the heat valve and the FATV body.





Remove the top cover of the valve by removing the two screws.

Remove and discard the o-ring

Using a flat bladed screwdriver, unscrew the piston from the valve body.



Remove the o-ring from the piston. It may feel more like hard plastic than rubber and may actually fracture instead of stretching. I believe this is the problem; it has taken a complete (100%) compression set such that it no longer seals and allows leakage past the piston even at high coolant temperatures.



Pull the plunger assembly out and make sure it is clean and works smoothly.
I removed the lower section and removed the thermal actuator. I tested it by placing it in a bowl of boiling water. The small plunger will extend about a quarter inch. It can also be tested without disassembling the lower section by pouring boiling water into the port and observing that the plunger extends.




Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Install the 2-019 o-ring on the piston. Use small amount of spray lubricant on the sealing surface in the valve body, then thread the piston into the body. I turned the piston all the way down, then backed it out 2.5 turns.

Install the 2-026 o-ring on the top of the valve, then install the cover with two screws.

Install the 2-018 o-ring in the oval groove on the valve face.

Install the 2-016 o-ring in the round groove on the valve face.

I will update this when I install it on a car.
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Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-18-2020 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:09 AM   #2
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awesome.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:55 PM   #3
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Nothing like a cheap diy. Good work.
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Old 03-14-2015, 07:53 PM   #4
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I removed the FITV from the 92 EX; compared the position of the adjustable piston (assumed this one hadn't been changed since the factory set it); the top of the piston was about midway in the upper port. I turned the piston in the one I rebuilt in by at least half a turn to be in roughly the same position.

Installed it on the car the other day; ran it to purge the air. Started it today while about 50 degrees outside. Fast idle was steady at 1800. Shut it off, opened the top of the FITV and turned it down by 1/2 turn. Restarted; fast idle was about 1600. I'll double check it tomorrow morning when it should be somewhat colder.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:02 PM   #5
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I've been experiencing some idle problems lately too, so during my troubleshooting I took off the FITV for inspection. It might be worth one's while to inspect the bowl when the assembly is off the car just to check it's condition. Here's what mine looked like:

Lot's of crud.


It's possible some debris got down there in the bowl and started to grind on the aluminum, eventually eating into the oring seat. It's bad enough that I'm going to replace it, but surprisingly it wasn't leaking.

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-22-2017 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 03-21-2020, 05:53 PM   #6
ca93accord
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Fleetwood,
other than www.hondaautomotiveparts.com, where can i purchase the suggested parts that you suggested? the website i typed in, does not have an o-ring for the adjustable piston (yellow-ish piston) in the FITV, nor the lower half of the FITV, where the thermo valve is located.

Supplies:
- Size 2-026 o-ring for the top cover
- Size 2-019 o-ring for the adjustable piston
- Size 2-018 o-ring can be used in place of the oval seal between the valve and the intake plenum
- Size 2-016 o-ring can be used in place of the round seal between the valve and the intake plenum

Note: These four o-rings can be almost any material as they only come in contact with air. I suspect the original o-rings are something like a nitrile that takes quite a compression set over time at temperature.

If for some reason you need to remove the lower (engine coolant) section, these two should be ethylene propylene to be compatible with anti-freeze.
- Size 2-024 o-ring for the outside seal
- Size 2-011 o-ring between the heat valve and the FATV body.
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:39 PM   #7
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If anyone one has a good website or suitable substitute from auto parts store, please pass the information. thanks in advance. as of right now, i purchase an o-ring from ACE hardware that fits but i am unsure if it is the correct material to withstand the temperature in the part. i rather install the correct part or a part that has been tested by the CB7 community to resolve the surging. please help.
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Old 03-22-2020, 12:09 PM   #8
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I have used a local place that sells all sorts of Parker O-rings, but normally in bulk, so when I ask for a just a few, they just give them to me. Fluorosilicone or Fluorocarbon should stand the underhood temperatures.

I don't know specifically what parts Honda used; they only sold the whole assembly. I have also used Ace Hardware (or other hardware stores) as noted near the end of this thread: www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=115811

What part of ID are you in?
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Old 03-22-2020, 01:23 PM   #9
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Mountain Home. It's about an hour southeast from Boise.

Btw, thanks for your quick response. Have a good day.

Last edited by ca93accord; 03-22-2020 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 05-02-2020, 01:20 PM   #10
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I NEED HELP. I was for sure by the suggestions on many threads that replacing all O-rings to IACV and FITV that my RPM/Engine surges would go away. It didn't.

When the IACV and FITVs were removed from the TB, I followed another suggestion to replace the EGR valve gasket and replace hoses that was connected to IACV and FITV that had small evidence of a minor leak.

before todays events, the surges would occur when the car was warm; now, it occurs right away when i started the car. I allowed it to warm up to normal temp and turn-off the car. I opened up the FITV and drove down the yellow piston until it stopped. That didn't stop the surges.

I am confused and lost of what i should. I think my next steps are:
1. Refill radiator fluid because when I replaced the hoses, there was a lot of fluid loss.
2. Run it and let it warm up to normal temp again
3. Set my base idle

Tell me if this is a major factor why my surges are happening? After I have done the above replacements/adjustments, when I took apart the FITV, i notice a slight crack on my yellow piston. It wasn't totally cracked through but very slight crack. Do you all think it is the cause of my surges? Should i replace it?
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Old 05-02-2020, 02:01 PM   #11
ca93accord
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I NEED HELP. I was for sure by the suggestions on many threads that replacing all O-rings to IACV and FITV that my RPM/Engine surges would go away. It didn't.

When the IACV and FITVs were removed from the TB, I followed another suggestion to replace the EGR valve gasket and replace hoses that was connected to IACV and FITV that had small evidence of a minor leak.

before todays events, the surges would occur when the car was warm; now, it occurs right away when i started the car. I allowed it to warm up to normal temp and turn-off the car. I opened up the FITV and drove down the yellow piston until it stopped. That didn't stop the surges.

I am confused and lost of what i should. I think my next steps are:
1. Refill radiator fluid because when I replaced the hoses, there was a lot of fluid loss.
2. Run it and let it warm up to normal temp again
3. Set my base idle

Tell me if this is a major factor why my surges are happening? After I have done the above replacements/adjustments, when I took apart the FITV, i notice a slight crack on my yellow piston. It wasn't totally cracked through but very slight crack. Do you all think it is the cause of my surges? Should i replace it?
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Old 05-02-2020, 08:51 PM   #12
ca93accord
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Top-offed radiator, purged bubbles, and set base idle. RESULT= no surges.

I guess the last owner increased the idle to get rid of the clicking from the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOUNT SOLENOID/VALVE. When I was going CW on the Idle Screw to lower the RPMs, it was still surging. Then, the RPM eventually stabilized without surging.

Now, I will try to tackle how to get rid of the clicking fromt he ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOUNT SOLENOID/VALVE. Any suggestions, send them my way. I will try to grab one from the junk yard to see if it fixes it BUT if not, it might look like I will need to replace the rear engine mount since it is connected to the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOUNT SOLENOID/VALVE.
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Old 05-02-2020, 10:46 PM   #13
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You probably had an air bubble in the bottom part of the FITV, filling and purging the air from the cooling system cleared this bubble so the thermal actuator operated correctly.

The clicking solenoid is not an issue with the solenoid; it is being commanded to do this by the ECU; sometimes the speed at which it is supposed to switch overlaps the idle speed. My wagon was doing this The only way to stop is to get the idle speed below the switching point, or keep it above.
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Old 05-03-2020, 12:37 AM   #14
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Fleetwood,
thanks again for your wealth of knowledge. I will follow your instructions to adjust the idle below or above so the click is not happening.
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