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    F20b DOHC swap in a cb parts list

    Complete Parts List F20B DOHC VTEC swap in a CB7

    Ok so first thing first is your going to need a engine. You can find one from most of your jdm engine suppliers online.

    If your looking to completely tear down the motor and rebuild it you can get all your parts from here seeing as how to Honda doesn’t sell parts for this motor and neither does Auto-zone in the states. For a head gasket kit you have to get it from here only place that can get you one in the states THE H22 WILL NOT WORK they sell a kit and just the head gasket by its self.
    http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hopcbcyhegao.html
    hmotors online sell just head gaskets by itself.
    http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/wh...php?prodID=817

    Now if you have a f20b motor its more than likely OBD2 and your CB is OBD1. But I will be covering the most logical and easiest option to get the motor to work in your car.

    In order for your f20b to work in your accord you will need some parts listed below:
    1) H22 OBD1 distrubtor- 31-17405
    2) OBD1 H22 injectors- 06164-P0F-000 x4
    3) A OBD1 H22 top half of the intake or a full h22 intake and If you wanna run a after market IM a h22 bolts up just fine. Now the reason for this is that it takes care of the IAC on the OBD2 IM being a 3 wire but your harness is a 2 wire. This will allow it to plug right up.


    Now you have your new motor in front of you. Now your going to wanna do some things while the motor is out. Im doing a manual tensioner conversion and a new water pump and timing belt. Listed below are the parts you will need.
    1) timing belt for a H22- 1400-P13-003
    2) water pump for a H22-19200-P13-003
    3) manual tensioner conversion kit- http://performance.importrp.com/manu.../i-291139.aspx

    And this motor doesn’t have a vtec pressure switch so you will need to pull it off one from an H22 or take the entire solenoid.

    Now for the ecu you will need. You will have to get a ECU chipped you can actually hit up drummersteve7 for a chipped ecu. He is a really good guy and is on this forum.
    And other places to get a chipped ecu from is HAMotorsports they have cheap chip and socketed ECU's but they sent me a shitty basemap. http://www.hamotorsports.com/socketedp28.html
    And then there is phearable.net who has chiped p28's also but is a little more expensive I just order a basemap from them the other day and will let you know how it runs. http://www.phearable.net/

    And now for the driver side motor mount thats bolted to the head will need to be changed. You will have to find a 92-96 prelude DOHC timing side engine mount bracket so your Accord driver side mount will work. Honda has them for 60 bucks
    part number-11910-P13-000



    Most of my info comes from reading the F20B thread on honda-tech from the first to last post like 5 times. And other threads found on the internet. Because I will be doing the swap here soon and found most of the info over every where. And wanted it all in one place. So why not here.
    http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2018500


    Last edited by TracieS; 02-21-2013, 12:19 PM.

    STANCE|WORKS

    #2
    When you say you need a "DOHC" driver side mount, does that include the H23? Thanks a lot for putting this together. The F20B was actually an initial plan of mine, but when the F died I was just worried about getting driving again so I got an H22 because of the amount of info on the swap. I still might do this some day.

    The F20B was only offered in OBD2 Accords and Torneos. I'm pretty sure the proper ECU, if you can track one down, is called "PCB." But obviously it is OBD2 and probably not worth converting your gauges. This thread here also alludes to some major headaches. Getting a chipped ECU with a proper tune is my only real concern now.
    Last edited by CyborgGT; 01-12-2012, 06:19 AM.

    Accord Aero-R

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      #3
      Yea that one should work to. You can also use a f series but you can't use a bolt hole. Thats the reason I said use the DOHC one.

      STANCE|WORKS

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        #4
        The link for the Honda PCB Cylinder Head Gasket Overhaul Set. Says its for 98-02 f20b. My engine is a 97. Are there any differences between those years?

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          #5
          Im not to forsure on that. But you have to call to check for avalibality so I would talk to the guy and see.

          STANCE|WORKS

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            #6
            does anyone know if the f23 arp main studs would fit the f20? im trying to figure all this out before it goes off to the shop to get the pistons fitted and assembled. soo excited for this build... its been a long time coming... 5 years to be exact. to the OP thanks for the info dude.
            But by the grace of God I am what I am, and his grace to me was not without effect. No, I worked harder than all of them--yet not I, but the grace of God that was with me

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              #7
              Bump
              updated the d/s head mount with a actually part number and honda still can get them. For 60 bucks

              STANCE|WORKS

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                #8
                Just a few side notes and things i found out during this endeavor that I thought would help others who want to attempt this swap.

                the F20B I got had a belt with 155 teeth, so double check yours when you get the engine.

                also the manual tensioner conversion will not work because the timing belt bearing part is bigger than the auto tensioner's timing belt bearing. but after some research supposedly honda has updated their H22 auto tensioner so either buying that new or getting a KS (http://www.kstuned.com/) one should work fine. unless you can find a timing belt with 154 or 153 teeth i would not try to put the timing belf on after the conversion because the belt will be too tight and fail premature, ya sure it may work for a while and will make a whining sound but its not safe.

                also I had a problem getting the H22 injectors to fit with the F20B fuel rail and it is best to just get a whole H22 intake manifold. The H22 injectors are bigger/taller and the studs that hold the fuel rail down are not long enough.
                Last edited by esskater892; 07-23-2012, 07:44 PM.
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                  #9
                  does anyone know if the innovative h22 swap mounts would work for the f20b swap? im trying to upgrade my mounts and i wanna know before i go ahead and swap the motor is.
                  But by the grace of God I am what I am, and his grace to me was not without effect. No, I worked harder than all of them--yet not I, but the grace of God that was with me

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                    #10
                    Yes it will the outside is just the same as a h22.

                    STANCE|WORKS

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                      #11
                      okay great... hey another question tracy... its andruw... we're friends on facebook too. lol we've talked before about our swaps. lol but anyway..... do you know if the block is based around the f23 or the f22? im gonna end up having a block guard welded in and i need to know which block this is related to so i can go ahead with this thing. lol thanks for the feedback and info tho bro. i really appreciate it.
                      But by the grace of God I am what I am, and his grace to me was not without effect. No, I worked harder than all of them--yet not I, but the grace of God that was with me

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                        #12
                        It's not based around either of those. It's most like an H22A4 block only without oil squirters and having iron cylinders. I say H22A4 and not A1 because it is an open deck design with 55mm mains.
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                          #13
                          Originally posted by esskater892 View Post
                          Just a few side notes and things i found out during this endeavor that I thought would help others who want to attempt this swap.

                          the F20B I got had a belt with 155 teeth, so double check yours when you get the engine.

                          also the manual tensioner conversion will not work because the timing belt bearing part is bigger than the auto tensioner's timing belt bearing. but after some research supposedly honda has updated their H22 auto tensioner so either buying that new or getting a KS (http://www.kstuned.com/) one should work fine. unless you can find a timing belt with 154 or 153 teeth i would not try to put the timing belf on after the conversion because the belt will be too tight and fail premature, ya sure it may work for a while and will make a whining sound but its not safe.

                          also I had a problem getting the H22 injectors to fit with the F20B fuel rail and it is best to just get a whole H22 intake manifold. The H22 injectors are bigger/taller and the studs that hold the fuel rail down are not long enough.
                          Thats why I said use a h22 IM so much simpler. But im using the f20 bottom with a obd1 fuel rail with the stock obd2 310cc injectors using d series studs.

                          STANCE|WORKS

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                            #14
                            hmm okay.. so if i were to order a block guard it would be for a h22a4 block since its identical??
                            But by the grace of God I am what I am, and his grace to me was not without effect. No, I worked harder than all of them--yet not I, but the grace of God that was with me

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                              #15
                              I wouldnt do it. the pistons are are 86mm. Thats smaller then h22 pistons. The walls may be smaller as well. You can try and find out id a f22a or f22b1would fit being as the piston diameter are the same
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