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Old 04-06-2016, 06:50 PM   #81
Chrisnick
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Originally Posted by apalileo View Post
Nice! I do appreciate that there are still companies supplying parts for the 4th and 5th gen Accords. I am sure that all of these will tighten things up. I tend to "play with the play" when I'm at stop lights.

Hey Beans, let me ask you something... Are the shock bodies of the B8 HD's shorter than those of the B6 HD's? I've only seen images showing that the strut rod is shorter. In time I'll likely want to swap out the shocks and if the B8 HD's will give me more shock travel from a shortened body, that would definitely sway my decision. I've literally got <1" of shock travel before the body hits the bump stop when the suspension is loaded, and that's with the FFC extended top hats. Any bit could help!
My k-tunes bushings were meant for early K series cars, they worked perfect!

B8's should just be a shorter shock shaft, I wouldn't think Bilstein would go through the trouble of completely redesigning the whole shock body, but who knows. As far as I know, the B8's are virtually unobtanium since they're technically a Euro market item. Odd that you're running into shock travel problems, mine have about 3 inches before bumpstop comes into play. With my homebrew extended top hats, I had to use the smaller washer meant for the top of the shock that goes above the bushing below the top hat otherwise the washer that goes below was too large to allow the bumpstop to reach all the way up into the deeper top hat. Let me know if you need clarity. Previously, I only had about 1.5-2" of travel before hitting the bumpstop.
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:17 AM   #82
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Thanks for the input. I didn't think deeply enough into the logistics of having a whole separate line of shock bodies for B8's. In searching for those B8's they are definitely a rarity.

I spent some time this evening tweaking my suspension setup. I ended up swapping the 600's back on up front. I turned the front rebound down 180 so now I've got the Koni's set to +2 front and +3 rear. One thing I did realize is that the front bushing was not seating all the way up in the FFC top hat. I had to reduce the diameter of the top "bulge" by about 2mm and now it sits up higher in the top hat, but within FFC's instructions to have it protrude just past the rubber spring isolator. I raised my car .25" (two full turns on the perches) so I'm at 14" from fender to hub center. I've now got about 1.5"-1.75" of travel to the bump stop. The test drive proved how much better the ride is with sufficient travel. I thought the ride on the 600's was harsh due to the rate, but in retrospect I was hitting the bump stops rather frequently.

How much additional mounting height did your extended top hats add? FFC's specs indicate a 1.5" addition to the mounting height, but they do require a certain amount of bump stop.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:36 PM   #83
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About 1.5" of added travel. Did the koni's come with new bumpstop? My Bilsteins did, and I'm using thoae, I know the stock bumpstop is a good 1-2" taller and a little bit fatter.
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:06 PM   #84
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Okay, our top hats are similar in the extension. With regards to the bump stops, I didn't get any with the Koni's (bought used) so I'm running new OEM ones. There are four segments in the front bump stop and I cut the top and bottom ones off. As I recall, the segments didn't taper in diameter from top to bottom like the rear ones. That's why I had to shave a segment's diameter as I discovered it was resting on an inner lip of the top hat rather than up against the washer beneath the strut rod bushing. This drew the bump stop up about about an 0.25".
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:04 AM   #85
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If you keep running into bumpstop issues, give Fat Cat Motorpsorts a call. I believe good-win-racing also carries their products. FCM has awesome info on their website about bumpstops.
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:53 AM   #86
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Man, I can't believe I didn't see this thread earlier. Good stuff. Great choice on the Koni/GC. I love my set. Also bought used with about 2k miles on them. Had them 3 years now, and love every day. The FFC extended top hats are a great addition too. I'm running the 550lb/450lb combo the previous owner installed. Perfect for my driving style. The one thing I have been lagging on is helper springs....def need to cop a set!

Also, do you have any sound clips of the Sebring exhaust? I literally just picked one up tonight off a BB2 Prelude for $30! I had planned on flipping it for a profit, but I'm probably gonna end up keeping it LOL.









Oh and lastly, I don't think I've seen you at any Accord meets.....you should attend the 5th Annual Cali Accord Meet this June 25th!

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Old 04-12-2016, 11:53 AM   #87
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@Chrisnick - Since the slight tweaks to the suspension, I've been riding nice! The OEM bump stop is definitely firm, but now that it's trimmed properly and I've added some stroke, it has served its purpose as intended. I only strike it on serious inconsistencies in the road and with the added travel before contact, there's more spring compression so the impacts are far less dramatic.

@Corweena - I don't know where any of the meets are so I just spend my time here on the forum. I do plan on attending CAM this year though! As for the Sebring, I don't have a clip, but I can say that it only raises the decibel level slightly. I think most people who see my tailpipes just think they're stock. It does have a nice smooth hum to it. The most noticeable change is at higher RPM. It's not a screamer by any means, but it definitely brought out some new notes on the road. I like it for a daily driver. One day I'll buy a full cat-back.
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Old 04-12-2016, 01:18 PM   #88
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@Corweena - I don't know where any of the meets are so I just spend my time here on the forum. I do plan on attending CAM this year though! As for the Sebring, I don't have a clip, but I can say that it only raises the decibel level slightly. I think most people who see my tailpipes just think they're stock. It does have a nice smooth hum to it. The most noticeable change is at higher RPM. It's not a screamer by any means, but it definitely brought out some new notes on the road. I like it for a daily driver. One day I'll buy a full cat-back.
Nice, thanks. I have a custom Magnaflow catback currently....I'm just looking for a muffler I can bolt on that is quieter for daily driving. I love the Magnaflow but on longer drives it can be a little loud.
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:22 PM   #89
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April 2016 - Brake Upgrade

Teaser pic until I have the time to wash the car and take better photos:


New to the mod list:
91-94 Acura NSX front calipers
98-99 Acura CL 3.0 front caliper brackets 25T
Stoptech 98-99 Acura CL 3.0 front slotted rotors
Stoptech 98-99 Acura CL 3.0 front street pads
Stoptech rear slotted rotors
Stoptech rear street pads
Techna Fit stainless steel braided brake lines
94-01 Acura Integra RS 40/40 proportioning valve
Speed bleeders

Decided to switch things up and paint the calipers and rotors with VHT Gold Flake Engine Metallic.
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Old 04-22-2016, 02:38 PM   #90
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Very nice brake upgrade! You're lucky you didn't have to deal with eliminating ABS; that can be tedious. I love that you're doing topretty notch mods with top notch parts. It's good to see an enthusiast get into one of these cars as opposed to someone who just slaps on wheels and a drop then sells the car.
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:24 PM   #91
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Thanks Mike! I've seen the maze that is the ABS system. That's the charm of the DX, its simplicity.

I am experiencing far more confident braking with this setup. Both the NSX calipers and the 40/40 prop valve have improved my stopping distance and the front wheels don't lock up as quickly as they did before the 40/40. Breaking in the system involved several aggressive deceleration phases from about 40-20 mph, a cool down period and then several phases from about 60-30 mph (performed in an industrial area at 10 PM). All of which were very promising and not once did I lock up the fronts and they look to have heat cycled properly.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:55 PM   #92
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Did you have to regent all the lines or was a fairly straightforward swpa to the prop valve? There's one in a local yard I've thought about snagging, but the location on the CD is a bit of a bitch.
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:54 AM   #93
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If you swap the bracket from yours onto the 40/40 it's a straight forward swap. No need to rebend anything.
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:19 AM   #94
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I didn't swap the bracket at all. I've read several cases where swapping the bracket has resulted in leaks. Mine is literally suspended in place by the hard lines. None of which had to be reshaped. Yes, a bit of manipulation is required to get all of the flare nuts to seat and it was a pain an a half to do, but once they're all secured it stays in place. The bracket from the 40/40 is completely on the opposite side of the stock one so it's just hanging out.

Chrisnick, doesn't your CD have ABS?
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:55 AM   #95
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A trick is to place the valve in a vise and squeeze both halves together. It doesn't take a lot of force. Then you can swap the bracket.
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Old 04-23-2016, 02:08 PM   #96
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I'm planning to do this with my 4040 valve, but I seem to have misplaced it somewhere. I just can't seem to imagine what is so difficult about swapping brackets that causes leaks. If I can replace a headgasket without it leaking, or power steering pump seals without them oozing fluid everywhere, then why are people having so much trouble with this thing?

I'm coming from this with no experience swapping brackets, I just don't seem to understand, I guess.
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Old 04-23-2016, 03:59 PM   #97
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My car is a non-abs LX(i think only the LX sedans were available with ABS/4wheel disc). I'll have to snag it and see what all I'd have to do. The soft initial pedal annoys me greatly.
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:59 PM   #98
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I'm planning to do this with my 4040 valve, but I seem to have misplaced it somewhere. I just can't seem to imagine what is so difficult about swapping brackets that causes leaks. If I can replace a headgasket without it leaking, or power steering pump seals without them oozing fluid everywhere, then why are people having so much trouble with this thing?

I'm coming from this with no experience swapping brackets, I just don't seem to understand, I guess.
I figured the same thing... keep even torque all around and all should be well, then as I researched further, I read of issues with leaking due to disassembly. Tishock's advice is sound. Maybe breaking a seal after 20+ years just does it in. Could also be warping due to years of heat cycling. Who knows!? So far I've had zero issues with it not being bracketed down. With 6 hard lines attached to it, it's webbed in place pretty well.

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My car is a non-abs LX(i think only the LX sedans were available with ABS/4wheel disc). I'll have to snag it and see what all I'd have to do. The soft initial pedal annoys me greatly.
Interesting to know! LX Coupe FTW! Aside from the prop valve, ss braided brake lines help with pedal feel.
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:04 PM   #99
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I've successfully swapped the brackets on two 40/40 prop valves and haven't had either leak. Didn't use a vice either, just on the bench then re-assembled them by hand. I have no idea why people are so scared of doing this and/or have had issues. They must have done something wrong is all I can come up with.
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:15 PM   #100
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I decided to err on the side of caution. If I come across the need to address the bracket, I'll give it a shot (probably still vice it as well). With the work it took just to get it installed, I'd prefer to leave it be for now!
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