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Old 08-10-2018, 06:25 PM   #1
DjKash88
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Car shut off while driving, now wonít start.

Car: 1991 Honda Accord LX sedan 2.2l
Other day I was driving down the interstate doing roughly 70 when my rpms dropped to 0 and the car shut off. No warning, wasn’t overheating or running bad, missing or getting bad fuel economy, just shut off out of the blue. I put it in neutral, cut the key back and coasted to the nearest exit. Car wouldn’t start afterwards. Cranks and cranks like it wants to start but won’t turn over. No check engine light, all dash lights come on when I turn the key to on, but the check engine light goes back off. I tried to jump the two pin connector to read codes and the check engine light just comes on steadily when I jump the connector. Fuel pump is engaging and I’m getting fuel to the fuel rail at the injectors. Checked for spark and wasn’t getting any so I check power to the ignition coil and it was getting power all the way to the ignition coil in the distributor but no spark. Replaced the whole distributor because it had a bad o-ring and was leaking oil. Still not starting. Going to have a friend help me check if I’m still not getting spark tonight when I get off work, but I have a feeling it won’t be getting spark. Older friend of mine suggested it might be the crankshaft position sensor? Any advice or suggestions on what it could be or what I could test to maybe narrow it down would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading.
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:11 PM   #2
illinois_erik
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ECU is toast


A solid check engine light (with service check connector jumpered) is for an internal rom reading error within the ECU. If you receive a solid check engine light on a stock/ unchipped factory ECU, then the internal processor is most likely bad and the entire ECU should be replaced.
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:42 AM   #3
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Main relay?
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:35 AM   #4
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check all of your grounds, make sure they are clean and tight.
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:44 AM   #5
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The CKP sensor will usually throw a code if it is inoperable.

Did the new distributor come with a new coil and ICM/ignitor? I had this exact issue and it turned out to be the ICM/ignitor inside the distributor.
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:52 PM   #6
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If you can get your hands on another ECU, give that a shot.
Otherwise, coil and igniter tend to be the culprits in a situation such as yours. Keep in mind that brand new things can be bad right out of the box. I’ve seen it happen often, and it seems to happen even more now that these cars are old, and new/refurbished parts aren’t quite as good as they once were.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:48 AM   #7
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That is exactly what happened when my timing belt broke while I was driving, you may want to check to see if yours is still there.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:47 PM   #8
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^ X2
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:25 PM   #9
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Hopefully that’s not the case. Interference engines and broken timing belts don’t mix!
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
Hopefully thatís not the case. Interference engines and broken timing belts donít mix!
Not "always" the case, mine broke when I was passing a car on the highway at over 70 mph and I tried to start it multiple times afterwards and I didn't bend any valves. One of my friends, who is a 25+ year Honda tech says it happens, not very often but it happens, so I am one of the lucky ones I guess.
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