Intermittent start up issues.

[Apexbender]

This is the situation; I did the auto to manual conversion, used the method with the shift selector. I tried to leave the selector on Park (P) but it would not start, moved it to Neutral (N) and it started right up. Reverse light wired. Ignition lock wired up so I could take the key out. Still have the auto gas cable that seems to be different from the manual one, still the car started right up. Every thing worked right. Now this is where the problem started. I start the car in the morning, it starts, but the idle is rough(Strike 1), an if I don't step on the gas for a few seconds if would die and then after that it feels like I only have two(Strikes 2 and 3) more tries and I have to step on the gas for all three tries. The idle is super rough for a couple of seconds, then it settles at 2000 RPM until it is warm and then it goes down to 1000 RPM, the idle is high but it is because it was set to that because of "that" infamous EGR idle oscillation (I know, I am cleaning the intake and EGR system). After that the car will not start I have had to wait about an hour to start the car again under the same "three strike" conditions. Anytime I turn the car off and try to start it back up, it will not. But if I wait for about an hour it will start but I have to step on the gas for a couple of seconds so it doesn't stall. I know that there is a lot of stuff here that it can be confusing, I for one, am puzzled because the check engine light is not on right now. Can anyone help me with this problem?

[wildBill83]

Try pulling ECU codes anyway, not all illuminate the check engine light. For it not starting in park, check your fuses.

[Apexbender]

No, I haven't got any codes, but I did reset the ECU. No change on the problem though. This weekend Imma' try to get the EGR system cleaned to see if it helps, check timing and put a new fuel filter.

[wildBill83]

Do you have an A/F meter and fuel pressure gauge? Have you checked all wiring and cabling twice?

[all_accord]

Couple of things I would check.
1. You said you did the auto to manual swap. Did you remove the engine mount control solinoid on the fire wall and plug the hole that it ran to. Its for autos only. When I did my auto to manual swap I forgot to plug the hole and had a rough idle for weeks. Try removing your iacv plug then start the car and see if it idles at 1k. Thats what mine did.
2. vacuum leaks in general
3. Check you main relay you could need a new one they are kinda notorious about going bad
4. Just thought of this one did you change your ecu to a manual one. I've never heard of them giving this much trouble but just a thought.
5. Go ahead and wire the park switch and stuff together also. It gave me some trouble until I did its not difficult. Besides after all the time in the conversion I doubt your going back auto anytime...

Wow I really need to make my pic smaller......

[Losiracer2]

its most likely something with your brake switch and the auto shifter. I know I had to wire I think a white and a green wire together or something related to that to get the solenoid to release and make the car think it was in neutral.

[Apexbender]

Thank you for the replies, I was looking around in the engine bay when I stumbled upon a broken sensor. It is directly underneath the dizzy. I put it back together and boom, the idle and start-up issue disappeared immediately. And the check engine light is back on.