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Is this Rod knock in my F22B6?

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    Is this Rod knock in my F22B6?

    So i drove to Tucson to pickup some wheels/tires that some guy was giving away and on the way back, I'm getting this knocking noise at idle and it slightly goes away as I increase RPMs.

    I don't know exactly how many RPMs becauses this F22B6 is in a 96 Odyssey with no tachometer, fun stuff.

    Here's a video I took when i got home. It looks like I was 2 quarts low and I'm leaking oil pretty bad now. So I'm not sure if my rear main seal blew all of a sudden or if my balance shaft seal walked out.

    What does it sound like:


    member's ride thread
    93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
    99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
    91 Accord SE 176k
    97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

    #2
    Is the video with it running two quarts low, or had you added oil? Kinda sounds like my daughter's Element at idle, found out hers was a piston slapping in the cylinder.

    If it goes away with proper amount of oil, fix the leak and keep driving it.
    Last edited by Fleetw00d; 12-21-2016, 10:48 AM.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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      #3
      Rod knock

      Rod knock usually gets louder as RPM goes up, it also causes oil pressure issues and/or oil pressure light to come on. Get a piece of hose or a stethoscope if you have one and touch it to the oil pan and see where the knocking is actually coming from, check the PS pump too as my wife's car made a awful noise because of the pump; similar to marbles in a blender.
      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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        #4
        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
        Is the video with it running two quarts low, or had you added oil? Kinda sounds like my daughter's Element at idle, found out hers was a piston slapping in the cylinder.

        If it goes away with proper amount of oil, fix the leak and keep driving it.
        This was after I drained the 1000 mile old 5w30 and filled with 10w40, thinking that would help, so its at the proper level and still makes this noise

        Originally posted by Crankshaft View Post
        Rod knock usually gets louder as RPM goes up, it also causes oil pressure issues and/or oil pressure light to come on. Get a piece of hose or a stethoscope if you have one and touch it to the oil pan and see where the knocking is actually coming from, check the PS pump too as my wife's car made a awful noise because of the pump; similar to marbles in a blender.
        I did just recently rebuild the PS pump with new o rings and had to replace the high pressure line

        member's ride thread
        93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
        99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
        91 Accord SE 176k
        97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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          #5
          It ended up being the harmonic balancer pulley being the culprit. The woodruff key sheared in half due to the person who did the previous installation of the timing belt. They put the curved part of the key on the outside so naturally it had less material to keep the pulley in place and it wobbled itself enough to shear the key.

          I'm a little worried since it chipped some of the crankshaft. A new key slides in and out fine, but it's a judgement call at this point if its going to hold. I added some JB weld to the chipped portion last night and am letting it cure/harden for 2 days to ensure it is solid.

          Found a new harmonic balancer pulley for 20 bucks and luckily had a spare key. So catastrophe avoided hopefully. A new engine, F23A, would've been 300 delivered and a lot of work to install. So, 20 bucks alternative isn't bad. I'm probably going to sell this thing immediately after I fix it to cut my losses.

          The oil leak ended up being the new (JY) pressure line for the PS I installed. Its leaking at the fitting, so I'll try and tighten it, maybe add some teflon tape to it to help it seal better. How crucial is it to screw the line down with the rubber support grommet about 4-5 inches from the fitting? I tried for a good 30 min. to attach that to the crossmember but couldn't do so. So, I just screwed the 14mm fitting on.

          I'll install a new Timing belt to make it more enticing to buyers so they won't have to worry about doing it for 90k miles and also give me peace of mind that the car won't break the belt during a test drive, since Murphy's law always seems to happen to me.

          Here's some pics of the carnage:






          Last edited by Losiracer2; 12-25-2016, 03:32 AM.

          member's ride thread
          93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
          99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
          91 Accord SE 176k
          97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

          Comment


            #6
            I always try and keep an emergency fund for situations such as these, in my mind this would of been the perfect chance to go nuts and replace and upgrade block or engine. On my last brake service I did the wagon brake upgrade in my second accord , on my next I will do the rotor over hub. He'll trans manual trans needs fluid service and I was thinking on wether or not I should upgrade that so I can do the clutch once and for all.
            [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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