Captive rotor/ front end issues , stumped trying to diagnose

[Cleannlow]

just registered to cb7 tuner .thanks for the add . I recently just picked up a really clean 95 sedan it has low km on it and everything is super mint except for the fact that I bought the car with brake issues . I know it's not a cb7 but I heard they share the same suspension? It would shake under load of the pedal so Being my first accord ( allways had civic/integra) I researched the captive brake rotor job, replaced the front rotors and pads , only to realize the problem wasn't there...still was shaking under load on the passenger side and now it's making a strange faint grinding/ scraping sound that goes away and comes back almost like a rattling or a shake on the floor at around 100 km/h so I kind of got tired of going through the process of taking the Bering out etc. went to an auto wrecker pulled a whole complete passenger knuckle . Pulled off the old knuckled wheel Bering fuct , new used knocked wheel Bering was good. with the rotor on it , put it on the car ....no more shakes ! With the brakes applied, But the scraping/ vibration is still there ?!? Wtf! lol...also, the axel boots were torn but no clicking when turning etc etc ..it only has 150k (93000 miles) it runs super smooth til It will start doing its shit around 50 - 100 kph come and go, being a real pain in the ass off me to figure out I hope you accord gurus can help out with this problem , it's all it the front end OH...ps , I checked the heat shields there not touching . THANKS"

[ukemike]

when you say it shakes under load, do you mean that the car and steering wheel shake when you are on the accelerator and it stops when you lift off?

That is the classic symptom of a damaged CV joint. Replace it soon you don't want that to fail while you are driving.

Here is a video of me driving our cb7 with a failing CV joint. You'll see how when accelerating or climbing a hill it shakes really badly but when I lift or brake into a corner it stops shaking.

https://youtu.be/CJBPAE30CSU?t=24m15s

[Losiracer2]

make sure none of the upper control arm bushings are torn. Mine would shake due to the entire arm moving back an forth when my bushings were bad.

[Cleannlow]

Picked up an axle today gonna put it in tomoro see if that works, it makes the scraping sound after 50 then shakes a bit over 100 . so u guys think maybe the ball joints too? I shake the wheels everything seems tight

[masospaghetti]

If it shakes under acceleration it sounds like a bad CV joint. I had the same problem. Be warned that the cheap aftermarket axles you get from Autozone for $35 may not fix your problem. I tried Duralast remanufactured, Duralast Gold, Cardone Select New, EPMI, a local rebuilder, all of them had the same shaking/vibration under acceleration. I tried 12 axles total that all had the same symptom.

I finally bit the bullet and bought Raxles, which solved the problem 100%. I thought I was going crazy for awhile.

My guess is that all of these cheap CV joints (other than OE Honda or Raxles) come from the same low-cost factory in China and they have poor quality control?

[Cleannlow]

Yeah , it's starting to make me a bit confused ...Swapped the axel out from the car I got the knuckle from now this wheel bearing is bad ...Fkk I can't get a break here. Lol dammit..Kinda having anxiety about it cause it's my GFS car and I've owned it for less then a month and had it it the air 3 times already Swapped knuckles did brakes etc.. I don't wanna give up on this car but it's seriously testing me big time..

[Crankshaft]

Dude its Ok as it is perfectly normal for cars this age to have such wear and tear. Everytime i plan on purchasing a used car i always anticipate on spending an extra 1k on preventive maintenance before i put them on the road and i do so by tackling all i can at one time so i wont have to keep jacking it up. Always keep the 1k theory in mind when you make offers on vehicles, on accords i always assume brakes are needed and since i am doing that i purchase; rotors, pads, bearings, ball joints(lower) and struts.While i am there i check Cv axles and brake hoses for wear and age, then comes the basic stuff like plugs, wires, distributor rotor, cap and fluid maintenance. Just remain calm and try and do everything right since the lady would be the one driving the car.

[masospaghetti]

Yeah can't blame a 24 year old car for having parts worn out, if the parts are original than they have lasted a long time already, if they are aftermarket then the quality of the aftermarket part is suspect.

I've owned and fixed up a lot of different brands of cars and Honda aftermarket parts quality is by far the worst - IMHO.

Usually the cheap bottom-feeder economy parts will work for at least a short period of time but the cheap suspension parts I tried on my Honda were literally so low quality they would be a serious hazard to drive on. One ball joint housing was deforming under load (the housing was oil-canning, yikes!) and the tie rod end threads stripped before it reached spec at 34 ft-lbs.

My point is, it's normal for old OEM parts to be worn out but spend the extra $$$ and get decent aftermarket replacements, or you'll be stuck in limbo forever changing bad parts.

[Lunchbox]

Use 98-99 cl wheel bearingsand hubs and cl rotors on your factory calipers and get rid of those captive rotors

[Raf99]

Now that i read this again, this is a hard issue to diagnose. It's a common issue with 1st gen TSX where the inner boot corner of the knuckle socket will wear. So you may feel a vibration at a certain speed, but only on load. And eventually it will turn into a grind noise. The noise / symptoms creep in from no-where too. Ya, took me a while to figure my problem out, so don't feel bad.

This page describes the problem.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-...and-fixed.html