Could I switch out the bushings on some innovative engine mounts for something softer? I know somebody who has these mounts sitting around, but I don't want my car vibrating like crazy...
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Can you change bushings on innovative mounts?
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I absolutely understand that but the whole point of a performance part such as those mounts is the solid rubber bushing. The way I see it, it would be like getting a prelude because it's cheap but planing to switch engines because it only uses premium. Although I think you have an idea to pitch to innovative, why not make swap mounts with softer rubber for those who want to swap but have less vibration.
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostI know Innovative can swap out bushing. You ship the mounts back and they press in new bushings. You could always downgrade the stiffness. I think 60A is about as soft as they come though.I'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by Crankshaft View PostI absolutely understand that but the whole point of a performance part such as those mounts is the solid rubber bushing. The way I see it, it would be like getting a prelude because it's cheap but planing to switch engines because it only uses premium. Although I think you have an idea to pitch to innovative, why not make swap mounts with softer rubber for those who want to swap but have less vibration.I'm faster then a prius
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Using a combination of stiff urethane mounts and factory rubber mounts will severely reduce the life of the factory rubber bushings. All of the four rubber mounts are designed to have a certain amount of compliance in them based on the harmonics produced by the engine and a compromise between an acceptable level of vibration in the cab and retaining enough rigidity that the engine is actually held in place firmly.
If you take one of the four mounts and nearly completely eliminate compliance at that point, the other three have to take on the resonance originally going through that mount. It will move to the path of least resistance. If you replace two of them with super stiff urethane, then the remaining two mounts have nearly twice the vibrations going through them than they previously did. Not only were they not designed for this, but they're likely not in the same shape they were when they were new. So expect them to fail very soon afterward.
None of this is an exact science. The placement of a mount on the body of mass that is the engine and transmission plays a huge role, as well as whether it's a side mount or a front/rear mount. But you can use what I just told you as a general rule of thumb to say that combining rubber and urethane mounts has its issues and to not expect everything to hold up for the long haul once you do it. Also, you're going to feel it in the cab either way. That's just the nature of the beast.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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Originally posted by Jarrett View PostUsing a combination of stiff urethane mounts and factory rubber mounts will severely reduce the life of the factory rubber bushings. All of the four rubber mounts are designed to have a certain amount of compliance in them based on the harmonics produced by the engine and a compromise between an acceptable level of vibration in the cab and retaining enough rigidity that the engine is actually held in place firmly.
If you take one of the four mounts and nearly completely eliminate compliance at that point, the other three have to take on the resonance originally going through that mount. It will move to the path of least resistance. If you replace two of them with super stiff urethane, then the remaining two mounts have nearly twice the vibrations going through them than they previously did. Not only were they not designed for this, but they're likely not in the same shape they were when they were new. So expect them to fail very soon afterward.
None of this is an exact science. The placement of a mount on the body of mass that is the engine and transmission plays a huge role, as well as whether it's a side mount or a front/rear mount. But you can use what I just told you as a general rule of thumb to say that combining rubber and urethane mounts has its issues and to not expect everything to hold up for the long haul once you do it. Also, you're going to feel it in the cab either way. That's just the nature of the beast.I'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by Jarrett View PostUsing a combination of stiff urethane mounts and factory rubber mounts will severely reduce the life of the factory rubber bushings. All of the four rubber mounts are designed to have a certain amount of compliance in them based on the harmonics produced by the engine and a compromise between an acceptable level of vibration in the cab and retaining enough rigidity that the engine is actually held in place firmly.
If you take one of the four mounts and nearly completely eliminate compliance at that point, the other three have to take on the resonance originally going through that mount. It will move to the path of least resistance. If you replace two of them with super stiff urethane, then the remaining two mounts have nearly twice the vibrations going through them than they previously did. Not only were they not designed for this, but they're likely not in the same shape they were when they were new. So expect them to fail very soon afterward.
None of this is an exact science. The placement of a mount on the body of mass that is the engine and transmission plays a huge role, as well as whether it's a side mount or a front/rear mount. But you can use what I just told you as a general rule of thumb to say that combining rubber and urethane mounts has its issues and to not expect everything to hold up for the long haul once you do it. Also, you're going to feel it in the cab either way. That's just the nature of the beast.I'm faster then a prius
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The bare minimum you need is just the one conversion mount. But then you'll begin to have the issues I was explaining.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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Originally posted by Jarrett View PostThe bare minimum you need is just the one conversion mount. But then you'll begin to have the issues I was explaining.I'm faster then a prius
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If you use the rear engine mount from Innovative you don't even need the dogbone. I'm currently running 2 Innovative side mounts and a stock rear mount with a Prothane insert. I still have some vibrations in the cab, but I also don't have a ton of miles on the mounts yet either. The engine has minimal rock to it at all.
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostIf you use the rear engine mount from Innovative you don't even need the dogbone. I'm currently running 2 Innovative side mounts and a stock rear mount with a Prothane insert. I still have some vibrations in the cab, but I also don't have a ton of miles on the mounts yet either. The engine has minimal rock to it at all.
I'll just do that thenI'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostIf you use the rear engine mount from Innovative you don't even need the dogbone. I'm currently running 2 Innovative side mounts and a stock rear mount with a Prothane insert. I still have some vibrations in the cab, but I also don't have a ton of miles on the mounts yet either. The engine has minimal rock to it at all.
You must be relieved! I can't even imagine what it would be like to have someone do that to my car. Never mind you putting so much time and money into yours!I'm faster then a prius
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