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Old 03-01-2010, 02:32 AM   #1
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Location: San Francisco
Posts: 253
Chirs190E16v is cool... so far.
Post DIY rear motor with out removing the intake manifold

So i just changed my rear motor mount today. It's wasn't that bad. I was looking at all the DIY's on here and no one had any pictures of a DIY removal from the top without removing the intake manifold.

I'll post what i have now and fix the rest later

You need basic tools, liquid wrench, long pry bar, extensions (2 feet), two flex heads, jack, breaker bar, and torque wrench.

Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands.

Lets start with the most tricky bolt first because if you can't get this off theirs no point skipping steps.

Use extensions and 2 flex heads to turn the drivers side bolt on the motor mount. This will come out right behind the intake near the firewall. This is meant to bust the bolt lose.

Get under the car and loosen the bolt with a wrench but don't remove it

Remove intake tube/box

Spray the two lower mount bolts with liquid wrench (Passengers side). Loosen them up but do not remove

^You will need to remove that big metal cover on top of the mount (You can see the metal cover on the last picture on this write up. Loosen up and remove the two bolts with extensions. Remove the metal cover as it will allow for more wiggle room.

Place a jack on the transmission. This will allow you to raise and lower the engine a few inches for room.

This is where you have to play around a bit.
Remove the control box

Remove your charcoal canister and unbolt your fuel filter from the bracket. (You can remove the fuel filter if you need more room check for proper removal).
Once that's out of the way remove your big bolt.
Unplug the vacuum hose connected to the rear motor mount.
^remove the heater hose from the fire wall. Make sure the switch is pointed to the back of the car this will prevent lose of coolant.

Now it's time to remove the 3 lower mount bolts. Use a pry bar and remove slide the mount towards the back. The heater hose will get in the way so take your time working around it.

Twist and turn the mount and work it out from the passengers side.

Once it's out take a break

Unbolt and unplug the vacuum unit from the firewall. This is the one connected to the rear motor mount.

Be careful! I broke the nipple that the hose holds on to on the old mount. You don't want to spend more money just because you broke a tiny peace.

I used a blow dryer to warm up the original hose before i put it on. Just to be on the safe side that i got a good bite i used some heat shrink on the tube (red tube).

Remove the top metal cover on the new mount. Put the new rear motor mount in and bolt in the middle big bolt first. Now bolt it the 3 lower bolts an torque everything in to spec.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2620526 190E Mercedes Benz
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3065882 Accord Under major Repairs

Last edited by Chirs190E16v; 09-01-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:55 AM   #2
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Darkcloud is cool... so far.
Good right up
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:39 AM   #3
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Bad_dude seems to have made some friends! Bad_dude seems to have made some friends!
Thumbs up

The bottom area of the mount is looking wet, is that lost coolant? Now this is something I can manage instead of taking off the intake.
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:42 PM   #4
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fleetw00d is very helpful fleetw00d is very helpful
I mostly followed the procedure above.

I started from under the car to loosen the driver side bolt for the base of the mount.

20190402_180129 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

View from the top with the intake duct removed:

20190402_180203 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

I removed the fuel filter, control box, the heater hose (firewall to valve, although still shown in the picture), unbolted the heater valve from the firewall moved it out of the way, and took the charcoal filter off the firewall to clear access. This is an LX; the ABS module on the EX and SE would take up some of this space.

20190402_182800 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

As the OP indicates, the retainer/bridge on top of the mount needs to be removed. I was able to get a 14 mm socket on the rear bolt to loosen it, but the nut below started turning. I was able to get a 15 mm wrench on that. I was able to snake a socket down to the rear bolt to loosen it, but had to wait until the mount was loose and I could move it rearward to get a wrench on the nut.

20190402_184210 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20190402_190409 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Then the mount can be moved rearward and manipulated to remove it. Remove the top bolt for the forward mount; this will allow you to use a jack to raise the back of the engine some for additional wiggle room.

20190402_191201 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Removed the retainer/bracket from the top of the new mount. Installation is the reverse of removal. Swap the small bracket and vacuum tube from the old mount to the new one. I used some heavy duty spray adhesive to stick the nut for the retainer/bracket to the underside of the mount flange for the forward bolt; there wasn't much room for my fingers to hold this while I tried to start the bolt. Get the mount lined up, but toward the rear, then install the retainer/bracket with the forward bolt, then slide the mount forward into place, then install the rear bolt and nut. I didn't need adhesive to hold the rear nut in place. Install the large bolt for the mount before the three bolts to the cross member.

20190402_192231 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20190402_194440 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Old mount was really bad, the upper rubber was torn almost all the way around. When I took Rose apart, the rear mount was torn similarly. Probably any mount over 150,000 is on its way out.

20190402_191216 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr
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Last edited by fleetw00d; 04-05-2019 at 10:11 PM.
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diy rear motor mount

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