looking to make 200 whp with h22

[goodfellas415]

bought a burnt 98 prelude took the 5 lug swap and motor and tranny out scraped the rest. took the head off found little scratches on the cyclinder walls so going to honed it out and put type r pistons. thats as far as i got would like to make 200+ whp looking for some input this is my first build. not really shure what headers or exhuast or what valve train would be best for all motor build. any help would be apprecitaed

[Jarrett]

This is the big boy section of the forum. You haven't seemed to do much researching if your course of action is to disassemble an engine and then hop on a forum for directions as to which parts to "put", as you say.

How much engine building experience do you have? What's your knowledge of the many different components involved? Is all you want a higher compression H22A4 with minimal effort and OEM parts?

[goodfellas415]

im asking what people have used and make good horsepower dont know much about h22 as i said in the first section just looking for some ideas of what to do

[cb7_with_snail]

Take a gander at HATCHing mrt. He made 209. But next time try the search button at the top of the screen its pretty precise.

[Raf99]

Take a gander at HATCHing mrt. He made 209. But next time try the search button at the top of the screen its pretty precise.

Amen to this. Go do some searching, return with your thoughts and questions on your research and then I'm sure people will be more than happy to help you out. People are going to spoon feed you on this topic.

[cb7_with_snail]

We were all new to the site at one time

[deevergote]

Honestly, 200whp isn't terribly difficult.

What "type r" pistons did you use?


If you raised compression, other mods may yield better results.
Any reputable "type 2" cams, with matching valve springs, would be good.
A quality header, such as Mugen, HyTech, SMSP, RMF... also a good idea.
A quality intake manifold, such as Skunk2 (I hate the brand, but they make a good manifold)
Then a proper dyno tune, done by a professional.


Also, if you guys are going to insult people for not searching, at least give them useful information. That way, when the next person searches, they're not going to find thread after thread of questions that have gotten nothing but "search!" responses. That helps no one.

[wildBill83]

You know a shop that will hone FRM?

Also, HP is meaningless, you want torque!

Most shops in my area won't touch honing FRM with a 10' pole...

[deevergote]

Any shop that knows how to work on a Porsche will do FRM.

And as for the torque/hp argument... hp is a function of torque. 200whp from an H22A will make more torque than stock as well. You don't want too much torque in a relatively lightweight FWD car... unless you're not interested in actually putting it to the ground!
We're dealing with a high-revving N/A 2.2L... torque isn't really the strong point.

[wildBill83]

Well, I want torque (H22A4) and short gears (MP1A LSD transmission). You just gotta put it down with finess.
I'm not going to be launching my car or drag stripping it. I want to hit corners and accelerate out of the hole. I want an autocross machine! So I want more torque than horsepower at around 3,500RPM. I don't really care about what I get at 7,000RPM because chances are I will only every use those numbers on a dyno not at a local track.

I should have stated he wants more low RPM performance he should be interested in torque.

If you are driving on the street then there are limitations to your speed that will keep you from ever really seeing the benefit of high horsepower is what I'm getting at.

Not many Porche shops here in the armpit of Texas. Not sure if I could afford their rates if there were.

But yes HP & TQ usually trend together, get one you get more of the other. More TQ than HP at low RPM is what you want is what I should have said.

[CyborgGT]

Too much torque and you're still going to understeer into a cone. Put the torque a little further up the RPM range and you won't as easily break traction during the corner, then you can accelerate a bit harder in the small space before the next cone . Kinda like how the turbo lag in the Focus RS supposedly works perfectly for the driver in those situations.

And if you ever plan on shifting out of the gear you're in, you'll want power all the way up to redline (or wherever you shift).

[toycar]

Well, I want torque (H22A4) and short gears (MP1A LSD transmission). You just gotta put it down with finess.
I'm not going to be launching my car or drag stripping it. I want to hit corners and accelerate out of the hole. I want an autocross machine! So I want more torque than horsepower at around 3,500RPM. I don't really care about what I get at 7,000RPM because chances are I will only every use those numbers on a dyno not at a local track.

I should have stated he wants more low RPM performance he should be interested in torque.

If you are driving on the street then there are limitations to your speed that will keep you from ever really seeing the benefit of high horsepower is what I'm getting at.

Not many Porche shops here in the armpit of Texas. Not sure if I could afford their rates if there were.

But yes HP & TQ usually trend together, get one you get more of the other. More TQ than HP at low RPM is what you want is what I should have said.

Hp is merely a measure of how frequently torque is repeated.


"Work done over time"

Work = torque

Over time = hp


And actually, if you want to auto-x the car, you'll be downshifting to a higher RPM than 3,000 when turning a corner. Because of this you will want a higher torque curve, so that you are actually able to accelerate out of the corner.

The reason you take the corner at a shorter gear, and a higher RPM, is that you put more power to the ground. More power to the ground = better traction = being able to take the corner faster in the first place.



I could roll a car with no rpm's taking a street corner at 45mph.


I could also pull hard through the corner at 4,600 rpm's in second gear, carrying the same speeds.

Why does the car roll over in one scenario, and not in the other?




The amount of power going to the ground.

[wildBill83]

toycar, I'm getting recirtified this year so I'm going to be in the entry class. This means no passing in corners and all that other jazz. I think 3,500RPM is a safe zone for me. When I advance in class I will look into a manual transmission and a motor build that focuses on an even torque curve through the majority of the power band.

But yes, your logic is correct. You sir are very knowledgable.

[cb7_with_snail]

Lol u need to shoot for both high HP/tq problem solved.

Op. Honestly if you actually want 200+ HP by all means go for it like I posted earlyer look at the performance thread both NA and Turbo sections have top rated CBS on the top of the thread. Pick a few and pm them most of us members that have been here for a while will be more than happy to help out on questions. But if u just want a quick cb 150-200 hp is going to put a smile on your face.

Also most members that are reaching 170+hp are either h22 swaps or turbo f22. And have bisi parts all kinds of inside. So u can contact one of his reps on this site. I know juilo@bisimoto is on here so u can also contact him, hell get u set in the right direction...yup good luck with ur goals!

[reklipz]

You know a shop that will hone FRM?

Also, HP is meaningless, you want torque!

Most shops in my area won't touch honing FRM with a 10' pole...

Sorry to interrupt, but FRM == fiber reinforced metal, correct? The H22A block is FRM? Are the F22A blocks as well?