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Rough idle, loss of HP, short overall gas mileage. HELP!!

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    Rough idle, loss of HP, short overall gas mileage. HELP!!

    Yet again, the CB is having it's "PMS" moods. I have been experiencing another problem I have yet to figure out.

    Why is it me that always seems to have the most difficult to figure...

    So I'll keep this short. My car used to run fine but would hesitate around 3500 to 4000 RPMs. If I would open the throttle a bit more the car would seem to "crossover" and the car would run fine.

    Some days it would do it, other days it wont. So, I ended up changing the rotor. Not knowing what cap to buy until I hit up kurobei, I bought myself a b16 cap. Yes, I have an h22a (jdm).

    That still didn't fix the issue. So I changed the o2 to a bs Bosch until my Denso comes in the mail. I have NO CEL CODES.

    Now my car seems to idle rough. I have a dramatic power loss throughout the powerband and my gas mileage is still shitty. I have new sparkplugs (ngk iridium), fairly new ngk sparkplug wires, and I changed the fuel filter maybe a year ago. I bought a new one and will be installing it soon.

    My friend did a compression check it turned out consistant through all cylinders.

    The only thing I havent touched is the ignition coil. Could this be a factor? I don't quite know how significant the ignition coil works in regards to HP and gas. I'm hoping this could be it, because I don't know what to look for if it isn't it and where to begin.

    Help? Who knows the breakdown on our ignition system?

    Trust me this is short compared to how detailed I can get.

    Thanks for any feedback given.


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    #2
    if its the original internal coil then yeah it could be bad. I had to replace mine and my H22 only had 45k miles when I put it in. I replaced it w/ an Accel high output coil, they say 20% more output than stock. Got it at Autozone for like 60 bucks in their performance section lol. Just get the one for a 90-91 accord.

    Also I had this weird popping in the upper RPMs. It was due to a crimped connection on the ignitor not being tight enough, or due to a bad connection. So i lubed everything up with dielectric grease and recrimped all the ignitor leads and the problem magically disappeared. So I would do that just to make sure all your connections are nice and tight.

    How do you think your injectors are? They might be possibly clogged or failing. Never know...

    member's ride thread
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      #3
      Thanks for your feedback. I also forgot to mention that early signs used to be that my car would turn over but would not start. So I changed the cap and rotor and it magically disappeared... for a few weeks.

      It didn't start again yesterday for 10 minutes like I mentioned in the first post. THAT is what makes me think it's an ignition problem. I will definitely look into the ignition coil.

      I will try to get some "free" ignition coils at a local pick n' pull (junkyard).

      What are the significant tasks an ignition coil does?

      Anyone else with advice feel free to join the party.


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        #4
        Poor Ground

        Your ECU, Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, Speedometer, and Tachometer all share a common ground; check it. A loose ground bolt can do exactly what you have described: at low rpms, the motor doesn't move much and the cable is steady and secure; at higher rpms, the cable moves around, ground is lost, and the problems begin.

        In my experience, the bolt eventually worked itself loose enough that the car wouldn't run longer than a few minutes, and then eventually wouldn't start. Only then was I able to identify the problem by probing my PGM-Fi Main Relay; the Fuel Pump kicked on when I probed ground.
        1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
        C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
        MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
        ~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp

        Originally posted by James Matteu
        You have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."

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          #5
          Originally posted by James Matteu View Post
          Your ECU, Fuel Rail, Fuel Pump, Speedometer, and Tachometer all share a common ground; check it. A loose ground bolt can do exactly what you have described: at low rpms, the motor doesn't move much and the cable is steady and secure; at higher rpms, the cable moves around, ground is lost, and the problems begin.

          In my experience, the bolt eventually worked itself loose enough that the car wouldn't run longer than a few minutes, and then eventually wouldn't start. Only then was I able to identify the problem by probing my PGM-Fi Main Relay; the Fuel Pump kicked on when I probed ground.
          I'll double check to be on the safe side. My tranny and engine ground are definitely good. I even upgraded to a 4ga. wire. I'm almost positive it isn't grounds. I watch my voltage on my AVIC-Z2 and it doesn't fluctuate but I'll check just to knock it off the probable list.


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            #6
            One more thing is that it only runs rough on idle and acceleration. If I let go of the gas is seems to run fine until I step on the gas pedal again.

            Frustration...


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              #7
              Not the ignition coil. I'm officially stumped.


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                #8
                Try your egr valve. When i first did my swap i had a little hesitation. So i sea foamed it and it helped a little. Then i later put on a egr block-off plate along with a chipped ecu that did not have an egr and the problem is gone. Some people swear by sea foam that it will destroy your motor. I on the other hand have had my h22 for 3 years and have sea foamed it a couple times, Still running strong. So buy a can and also clean your egr valve and ports.

                Just a suggestion.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by H23CB7 View Post
                  Try your egr valve. When i first did my swap i had a little hesitation. So i sea foamed it and it helped a little. Then i later put on a egr block-off plate along with a chipped ecu that did not have an egr and the problem is gone. Some people swear by sea foam that it will destroy your motor. I on the other hand have had my h22 for 3 years and have sea foamed it a couple times, Still running strong. So buy a can and also clean your egr valve and ports.

                  Just a suggestion.
                  I've seafoamed my car twice. I'm actually thinking it might have played a part in this madness. I will definitely try to clean the EGR again. This happened maybe a week after seafoaming. And to top it off, the first time I did this, there was hardly and smoke that came out my car. Must be one clean engine I have.

                  Eh, anyway thanks for the advice. I will definitely check that out and keep you all posted.

                  Anymore suggestions?


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                    #10
                    how are the EGR ports? don't just clean the valvle, pop off the plugs and clean the ports too.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by N9netwoAccord View Post
                      how are the EGR ports? don't just clean the valvle, pop off the plugs and clean the ports too.
                      I used fuel injection cleaner. Still nothing. I think I do gotta pop them out.
                      I am having the time of my life (sarcasm)

                      I'd like to add that it sputters on idle and when accelerating. When I left off the gas is seems to be running fine.

                      Grr.


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                        #12
                        could be o2 sensor.

                        I've had two go bad and the did something similar.

                        Both times I got no CEL, car would run SUPER harsh...buck and kick and shake...terrrible...at WOT it would act right. But ONLY at WOT. This is because at WOT the ecu ignores the o2 senor. I also had horrible gas mileage...it dropped by about 1/2 of what I normally got.

                        Now..my idle was fine, though I could hear it miss a bit. Wasn't really a miss, just running too rich.

                        Not saying this IS your problem...but worth checking. Again...I got no CEL codes.
                        ____

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by bcjammerx View Post
                          could be o2 sensor.

                          I've had two go bad and the did something similar.

                          Both times I got no CEL, car would run SUPER harsh...buck and kick and shake...terrrible...at WOT it would act right. But ONLY at WOT. This is because at WOT the ecu ignores the o2 senor. I also had horrible gas mileage...it dropped by about 1/2 of what I normally got.

                          Now..my idle was fine, though I could hear it miss a bit. Wasn't really a miss, just running too rich.

                          Not saying this IS your problem...but worth checking. Again...I got no CEL codes.
                          I changed my o2 to a denso. I don't know what else it could be. I will try to clean out the egr ports. I think everything is important so I'll have to take a look in that.


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                            #14
                            Well I have my car on jack stands in the front. Seems like the car seems to run fine when the front end is elevated. When on flat even ground, it idles horribly.

                            Anyone have a solution to this? This has to be liquid related. I just cant seem to figure this never-ending problem.


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                              #15
                              but if it was fuel related it would be directly related to the amount of fuel int he tank as well.

                              my friend's 626 had a stuttering issue whenever it would drop 1/4 tank. turns out part of the fuel pump pickup fell off
                              I <3 G60.

                              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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