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Raspy exhaust sound after header install

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    #16
    Originally posted by GTRON View Post
    That sounds exactly like what I did to mine!

    I still have a magnaflow cat though.

    Can we get some exhaust sound videos?
    https://youtu.be/C5D_gCICKwY
    Check out the link...more pics and videos to come. Lmk what you all think

    Comment


      #17
      Sounds really similar to mine! Why did you go with a 2.25" though?

      I had a stud break on me too, and had to get my crossmember notched (wish I would have done that myself).
      I'm faster then a prius

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by GTRON View Post
        Sounds really similar to mine! Why did you go with a 2.25" though?

        I had a stud break on me too, and had to get my crossmember notched (wish I would have done that myself).
        I'm not going for a huge build. I mainly want better gas mileage. All the bends are real smooth. Plus 2.5 will have more rasp. I just wanted a deep tone with a lot better flow. Originally i thought about 2.5... All of my next performance mods will be mild. I have a a6 motor and tranny in my garage so I'll probably just do the a6 upgrades. My fuel pump is starting to go so I'm not sure what I'll do there but that's another thread i need to search for. I'm curious on why you asked about going with 2.25 though. I like to pick people's brains...lol. I have read a lot on it and for the most part for what my plans are 2.25 seamed like the best option.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
          Once you put a resonator in your system it should get rid of most if not all of the rasp.
          How do I change the title of this thread to curing a raspy exhaust or what I did to get a deep good exhaust tone on my f22a1

          Comment


            #20
            I can change it for you. What exactly do you want the title to be?

            As for fuel economy, increasing your engine's ability to breathe will actually DECREASE fuel economy in most cases. Greater airflow in and out of the engine will likely result in a greater oxygen content in your air/fuel mixture. The ECU will see this via the o2 sensor, and send more fuel to compensate. The best way to ensure the best fuel economy is to leave it completely stock, and keep the engine in its best running condition.
            You CAN gain fuel economy with a custom ECU tune, but even that can be iffy (especially since the PT3 and PT6 ECUs are tuned quite well already).

            2.5" piping is quite large for an F22A that is not going to be pumping out significant horsepower. That will raise your powerband a bit, forcing you to rev higher to use your engine's power. This will also contribute to a decrease in fuel economy.






            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by GTRON View Post
              I have an eBay exhuast, with a magnaflow high-flow cat, and muffler, and I had rasp. Welding on a long red glass pack got rid of the rasp, and made the exhaust sound warmer.

              If I were to do it again I would buy a OBX header, and a Yonaka exhaust.
              I have the Yonaka cat back system & I love it. Nice, deep/low rumble.
              Keep Pushing..

              Comment


                #22
                Just saying... Yonaka and OBX are "eBay" companies. Just knockoff reproduction companies that frequently produce inconsistent products. They seem to be two of the better options, and I'd probably consider either one for exhaust components, but they're not high quality companies. One person's good experience may not translate to you having one that is similar. Inconsistency is very common among those brands. If you want consistent performance (and by "performance", I also mean sound, fit, and reliability), pay for a quality brand.
                Supporting quality brands is also a way to ensure they continue supporting our incredibly old and fairly unpopular platform.






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                  #23
                  Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                  Just saying... Yonaka and OBX are "eBay" companies. Just knockoff reproduction companies that frequently produce inconsistent products. They seem to be two of the better options, and I'd probably consider either one for exhaust components, but they're not high quality companies. One person's good experience may not translate to you having one that is similar. Inconsistency is very common among those brands. If you want consistent performance (and by "performance", I also mean sound, fit, and reliability), pay for a quality brand.
                  Supporting quality brands is also a way to ensure they continue supporting our incredibly old and fairly unpopular platform.
                  Yeah I hear you. We'll see down the road with how long it will last. I think I installed it last summer. I know I did have a problem with fitment when I first installed it. It seemed to be too close to the undercarriage causing the exhaust to hit the rear sway bar & making a loud vibrating noise. I just used longer exhaust hangers to compensate the distance between. Now there is no problem. My CB is not show room quality & I do not drive it everyday (more like every 2 weeks at this point in my busy life) so that is why I chose a "cheaper" route.
                  Keep Pushing..

                  Comment


                    #24
                    It's not a terrible option. I just want to mention the inconsistency thing so people know your good experience may not mean they'll have one as well.
                    When it comes to exhaust stuff, the cheaper stuff is often passable. We're very quickly losing legitimate aftermarket support, but that may or may not be associated with the support of cheap knockoff companies.






                    Comment


                      #25
                      Yeah I would feel bad if I had a good experience then someone went the same route & absolutely hated it.

                      Speaking of bad products, when I installed my new Koni setup I decided to redo the inner & outer tie rods. I ended up getting a bad Moog outer (brand new, right out of the box). It had a lot of play like it was already used.

                      So I guess there is always some sort of inconsistency with parts sometimes?
                      Keep Pushing..

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Moog's quality has declined sharply in the last few years. I had a rear upper ball joint boot fail on me in under 3 months, and I never once drove the car after installing it (complete with the new arm... not just the boot or the joint)! I avoid Moog now as well. I'm honestly not sure what good OEM alternatives there are for many more mundane parts (like ball joints and tie rod ends). For the longest time, Moog was the standard. If you didn't want to pay OEM prices, you got Moog. Now, it's OEM or crap, it seems.






                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                          Moog's quality has declined sharply in the last few years. I had a rear upper ball joint boot fail on me in under 3 months, and I never once drove the car after installing it (complete with the new arm... not just the boot or the joint)! I avoid Moog now as well. I'm honestly not sure what good OEM alternatives there are for many more mundane parts (like ball joints and tie rod ends). For the longest time, Moog was the standard. If you didn't want to pay OEM prices, you got Moog. Now, it's OEM or crap, it seems.
                          Damn! what a shame..Yeah I know, Moog was always the talked about brand for suspension components.
                          Keep Pushing..

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            Moog's quality has declined sharply in the last few years. I had a rear upper ball joint boot fail on me in under 3 months, and I never once drove the car after installing it (complete with the new arm... not just the boot or the joint)! I avoid Moog now as well. I'm honestly not sure what good OEM alternatives there are for many more mundane parts (like ball joints and tie rod ends). For the longest time, Moog was the standard. If you didn't want to pay OEM prices, you got Moog. Now, it's OEM or crap, it seems.
                            I stick with AC Delco and Beck/Arnley honestly for tie rods. That is when I can't afford OEM. Which happened this last time. I bought AC Delco for all of it. It all came with a lifetime warranty and the outer tie rods are Senkei 555, which is OEM for our cars. I'm not sure who made the inner tie rods but still, way ahead of where Moog is at.

                            Outer Tie Rod


                            Inner Tie Rod


                            Sorry to sort of derail the thread. But hey you guys started the derailing before I showed up!
                            Last edited by Rilas; 04-26-2017, 04:02 PM.
                            MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              It's pretty much done as far as the initial topic goes, I think! AC Delco is oem for GM, so yeah, they're probably quite good.






                              Comment


                                #30
                                Quite alot of ACDelco suspension parts are actually made by Moog, there were theories about this but we're confirmed when both companies put out same parts with the same defects at the exact same time. Honestly though every company has bad batches or quality control issues at one point or another, the difference is that some see the mistake and try to solve it while taking care of the damages caused by the faulty parts while others don't care and keep pumping out crap at the expense of those loyal to the brand.
                                [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

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