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Vibration at Idle.

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    Vibration at Idle.

    Hey there, fellas. I need some advice. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and this shaking at idle is bugging the shit out of me. I realize that this is a 17 year old car, but there has to be something I can do. Car is idling right at 750 when I stop, and everything is tuned up. Is there anything I can do to dampen the dash & wheel from shaking? I was thinking about taking off my dash and putting some leftover Dynomat in there. Anybody have any suggestions?

    Thanks, guys.
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    #2
    Perhaps new motor mounts?

    1999 BMW M3
    2001 Honda CR-V SE RT4WD
    2005 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71
    2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650

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      #3
      Already checked those, they're good. It's the famous shake that I had with my last CB7.
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        #4
        u have to change the motor mount in the back of the intake manifold same problem with my girl car

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          #5
          Similar issue. 93 LX wagon auto (stock), 154,000 miles (bought it with 150K). Annoying vibration (1/rev?) at idle (worse than my 93 EX coupe auto), idle steady at 750 rpm, vibration smooths out above 1000 rpm. No CEL, no codes.
          Work since purchasing: valve job, NGK plugs, cap, rotor, wires, injector screens clean, air filter, fuel filter, fuel pressure 43 psig without vacuum, compression 185-190 across the board, new front mount, side mounts OK, checked balance shaft timing. Improved a little after tweaking the timing from 14 to 16 degrees BTDC.

          Rear mount solenoid and vacuum motor work as they are supposed to, but there doesn't seem to be much difference in vibration with the vacuum disconnected. Tried brake torquing the engine in drive and reverse, seems to settle back into position at the same rate regardless of whether vacuum is connected or not.

          Is there a way to actually check the damping of the rear mount other than replacing it (I guess I should have done it when I did the valve job in January)? Original mount as near as I can tell. Can the mount be replaced from below with sufficient ground clearance without removing the intake?
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

          Comment


            #6
            I do not believe there is any way to get it gone with stock options.

            Wonder if getting the auto's dampener would help any?

            I didn't feel as big of a difference when I installed my solid mounts as I thought I would...now below 1k do I feel a difference between solid vs stock. Above 1k it smooths out and I don't feel much.

            I'm pretty sure higher end cars have fluid filled mounts or have active dampeners on the mounts that pulse with the engine to cancel vibs.
            ____

            Comment


              #7
              I suspect that cleanwithit0607 has an automatic already with the dynamic mount. At idle, a solenoid is energized applying vacuum to rotate a valve that is supposed to open a large passage between the upper and lower chambers to allow fluid to move easily and provide a less stiff mount. Above approx 1000 rpm, the solenoid is de-energized allowing the valve to rotate back to block the large passage, leaving only a small passage between the chambers to stiffen the mount. It is either on or off, it doesn't pulse with engine rpm. My 93 EX coupe is bone stock and idles almost as smoothly as my 90 and 93 LX sedans with 5 speeds, even in gear, so I know it can be improved with stock parts. cleanwithit0607, the problem is not the dash or the steering wheel, it is with the engine, or mounts, or tranny.
              90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
              08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                I suspect that cleanwithit0607 has an automatic already with the dynamic mount. At idle, a solenoid is energized applying vacuum to rotate a valve that is supposed to open a large passage between the upper and lower chambers to allow fluid to move easily and provide a less stiff mount. Above approx 1000 rpm, the solenoid is de-energized allowing the valve to rotate back to block the large passage, leaving only a small passage between the chambers to stiffen the mount. It is either on or off, it doesn't pulse with engine rpm. My 93 EX coupe is bone stock and idles almost as smoothly as my 90 and 93 LX sedans with 5 speeds, even in gear, so I know it can be improved with stock parts. cleanwithit0607, the problem is not the dash or the steering wheel, it is with the engine, or mounts, or tranny.
                How many cb's do you own?

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                  #9
                  pull the motor out and rebalance the crankshaft, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer.
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I too have some vibration problems and haven't solved it yet.

                    I know i do have a front mount broken (it was hard to find at first as all the rubber inside is still attached, however the rubber is actually no longer attached inside and only a hair line crack barely visible suggested its failed).

                    When you apply pressure to it side to side it actually moves and shows the rubber failure.

                    My vibration research suggests the list below (I have not yet attempted them as im too busy on other things and other peoples car's at the moment).

                    Try these as the items below can affect running refinement (if engine mounts are in good order and have been eliminated from the equation):

                    Check, clean IACV
                    Check, clean and adjust FITV (round plastic donut ring)
                    Check and clean EGR
                    Check, clean or replace Distributor Cap
                    Check, clean or replace Rotor
                    Check and clean Throttle body
                    Check and adjust engine timing
                    Check or replace ignitor module

                    On the unlikely side but still worth the note (which i have read to be suggested also)

                    Faulty high tension wire
                    Incorrect Spark plugs
                    Faulty fuel injector


                    Let me know how you go.
                    Last edited by JDMDriver; 05-29-2010, 10:02 AM.
                    Rides:

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Lowmiler - to answer your question: 3 CB7's, 1 CB9. I drive one (90 LX 5 spd 303K), my wife drives one (93 LX 5 spd 110K), three daughters driving the other two (93 EX coupe auto 152K, 93 LX wagon auto 154K).

                      To JDMDriver - haven't done IACV or FITV, both seem to operate properly and should affect all cylinders pretty evenly so I don't think they can give me the 1/rev vibration I think I have. I did clean the IGV ports at the time of the valve job. Everything else pretty much addressed with new parts as normal maintenance after purchase, although I can't remember if I Seafoamed this one or not - did run a bottle or two of Techron through it and my daughters used Chevron (with Techron) whenever available. I may do some comparison of engine movement under load between the EX and wagon.
                      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                        Lowmiler - to answer your question: 3 CB7's, 1 CB9. I drive one (90 LX 5 spd 303K), my wife drives one (93 LX 5 spd 110K), three daughters driving the other two (93 EX coupe auto 152K, 93 LX wagon auto 154K).

                        To JDMDriver - haven't done IACV or FITV, both seem to operate properly and should affect all cylinders pretty evenly so I don't think they can give me the 1/rev vibration I think I have. I did clean the IGV ports at the time of the valve job. Everything else pretty much addressed with new parts as normal maintenance after purchase, although I can't remember if I Seafoamed this one or not - did run a bottle or two of Techron through it and my daughters used Chevron (with Techron) whenever available. I may do some comparison of engine movement under load between the EX and wagon.

                        So that makes you a CB conisuier of sorts huh!!! Sounds like my fam sorta!
                        The CB7 Collector.
                        Team Kindred Impulse Member #3
                        92 LX Coupe F22A1
                        2013 Toyota Corolla S
                        92 EX Sedan F22A1
                        Originally posted by deevergote
                        Do you really need to make a thread asking if having your car like this /---\ will cause uneven tire wear? Try walking like that for a few weeks and see if your shoes wear funny! (hint: they will.)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Did some checks with vacuum routed directly to the mount (low damping all the time) vs. off (high damping all the time). From the driver seat with the hood open, I watched how much the power steering pump moved when going from neutral to drive or reverse. With vacuum applied, engine appeared to jump about the width of the top power steering hose; maybe half that with vacuum off. My 93 EX coupe didn't seem to jump quite as much with vacuum on, and not as much difference with vacuum off.

                          Still not sold on the rear mount. Any way to check the relative contribution of combustion from each cylinder?
                          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I tend to get vibrations when it's time for an oil change. Since oil circulates through the dampener, it makes sense.

                            Simple enough solution to justify a mention, anyway.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I don't believe the mount has engine oil circulated through it. The fluid is self contained in the mount and is restricted from moving from top to bottom to provide the damping.
                              90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                              08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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