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Old 05-20-2018, 12:21 PM   #2261
Jarrett
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That sucks. The B-series gears are the same as the H23A1 non-VTEC, but not the H22A.
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:04 PM   #2262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH-503P-3 View Post
That’s not cool. Can they be exchanged?
Already started. Feel bad for the person who was at the post office as I was not in a good mood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
That sucks. The B-series gears are the same as the H23A1 non-VTEC, but not the H22A.
Ya. They are also thicker. I was so excited to get those done today as I've never done timing belts or cam gears. Now I'm so pissed off. And i can't work on the car pissed off, more things just go wrong...

Ahh well. I'll paint the old ones and put them back on.

The other item on the list was the AEM fuel filter I bought which (unfortunately) is the size of a paint can). But it has 10an female fittings on the end. I don't think they make an adapter to allow the OEM line nut/end, so I think they want you to run a new braided line with AN fittings on the ends. I think......
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:18 PM   #2263
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Best option for fuel filters that I have found for OEM fittings is the AEM HF fuel filter PN: 25-200BK. I used a red one for years. Paper filter cartridge is changeable.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...me-fuel-filter
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:45 PM   #2264
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Originally Posted by GhostAccord View Post
Best option for fuel filters that I have found for OEM fittings is the AEM HF fuel filter PN: 25-200BK. I used a red one for years. Paper filter cartridge is changeable.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...me-fuel-filter
That looks like a 10AN fitting too. So how are you going from the OEM banjo bolt to the 10AN?


And don't work on your car when you are pissed off at the world! This is the balancer tensioner bolt which broke off, and then a drill bit which broke off in the hole. I just wanted to throw the drill at the wall as hard as i could....







I did get it out. All caused by this fucking thing. Used for the first time since I bought it several months ago. And the dam thing doesn't click! I even tried it on 30'lbs/tq on a wheel lug nut and nothing. It does nothing different when it's set to 30 or 150. I don't get it.
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Old 05-20-2018, 07:07 PM   #2265
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Quote:
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That looks like a 10AN fitting too. So how are you going from the OEM banjo bolt to the 10AN?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AEM.com
Thread sizes for filter are 12x1.25 top and 14x1.50 bottom.
I'm pretty sure that I used the stock bottom fitting and I bought an "OEM replacement" braided stainless line from Summit that had the banjo bolt.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:48 PM   #2266
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ok, stupid question. How does a small torque wrench work?

I returned the one in the above pic for a new one and it's the same. There is no 'click' when you reach torque spec. Also the "give" in the handle is the same at 30ft/lbs or 150ft/lbs. I tried using it on my wheel lug nuts which I know are 85ft/lbs, and I had the wratchet set to 30ft/lbs. No sound, hand has that "spring" to it right away. Set it to 150ft/lbs and handle 'spring' is still there and obviously no click.

I'm confused. I can use my 1/2" large impact one and set it to 30ft/lbs and it clicks no problem.
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:06 PM   #2267
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Actually now that i've read these reviews i see the problem. This tool is a piece of shit.........
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma...p.html#Reviews
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Old 05-23-2018, 05:43 PM   #2268
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So went to Honda to pick up that bolt. They said the one bolt is on back order till August 1st! Jesus. Found out the same bolt is used in the Acura CL 97-99 so I'll try the Acura dealership next. After that I'll order it from torontohondaparts.com

H22 parts will be impossible to find soon enough.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:22 PM   #2269
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Wow man, the last few things you've tried to do have been rough on you. The engine bay looks like it turned out great though! If you're still interested in using a compact in line fuel filter I would take a look at Earl''s (like the company that makes the braided hose) as their filter is pretty nice and compact and actually uses male fittings. The cartridges change out pretty easy too if you want to change the size of the element. As far as the hose goes, I believe Ghost is right, Summit or Jegs makes a stainless braided line with that banjo fitting but I think it's for a Civic? Worst case scenario, I'm pretty certain they make just that banjo fitting by itself, either from Earls, Vibrant, or Summit. Hopefully you get that bolt from Acura. If it really comes down to it, I think there are a few websites that might have it in stock. At least the motor isn't in the car.
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Old 05-26-2018, 07:35 PM   #2270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1357 View Post
Wow man, the last few things you've tried to do have been rough on you. The engine bay looks like it turned out great though! If you're still interested in using a compact in line fuel filter I would take a look at Earl''s (like the company that makes the braided hose) as their filter is pretty nice and compact and actually uses male fittings. The cartridges change out pretty easy too if you want to change the size of the element. As far as the hose goes, I believe Ghost is right, Summit or Jegs makes a stainless braided line with that banjo fitting but I think it's for a Civic? Worst case scenario, I'm pretty certain they make just that banjo fitting by itself, either from Earls, Vibrant, or Summit. Hopefully you get that bolt from Acura. If it really comes down to it, I think there are a few websites that might have it in stock. At least the motor isn't in the car.
Thanks man. I did get the bolt from a friend today and came back to the house to install it. And.................. I broke it off in the block too

So I'm doing it wrong, all wrong. And it's actually GhostAccord that saved the day in his reply post on honda-tech. This time around when I installed the bolt I just tightened it snug. But the arm was still loose. It wiggled side to side 2mm and while the larger nut secured the bearing (which moves up and down) this arm had small amounts of play. I thought that the 10mm just needed a few more turns and snap'o ..... bye bye bolt.

So all this bolt is hold the arm to the block and act as a pivot point. The "shoulder" of the bolt is so the rod doesn't rest on the thinner bolt diameter. I
also was reading the wrong torque spec. And I should have noticed that based on the size of the bolt. But I just didn't think this arm could "move" around and not get snug. Me =



..
...
... but some good news I guess. I installed the OEM brake lines. I kid you not, it took me more than an hour to figure out how the F the passenger side went. Bud was with me too and we had prior pics and were stumped on how to it. Behind the steering column, or not, which hole in the prop. valve. wtf.


--
The head also needs valve adjustments done. I painted the block how i wanted, also the Valve cover for now, chromed the Honda part.



There should be some good activity coming up with the summer coming. The list is still lengthy but excited to do some of these items for the first time.
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:28 AM   #2271
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Sucks to hear about all the things going bad and wrong on the engine build. We can all relate somehow. Take some time to unwind and relax. Hopefully from now everything will be smooth for you.
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:01 PM   #2272
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Sucks to hear about all the things going bad and wrong on the engine build. We can all relate somehow. Take some time to unwind and relax. Hopefully from now everything will be smooth for you.
Fingers crossed. I did get another bolt, and no way I'm messing it up this time. I think the AEM cam gears are coming tomorrow so going to wait to finish the timing belts etc. tomorrow.

I did take a few hours last night and did the manifold wrap. Fuck i hate doing wrap. It's basically fiberglass / insulation that you need to always pull through and make shit go in the air. So long sleeve shirt + gloves + mask for 2+ hours doing this. I had some left over stuff so I wrapped the bottom half of it rather than only doing the pipes.



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Old 06-03-2018, 12:38 PM   #2273
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Sucks about all the mishaps lately. Header wrap looks the business. Great work!
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:56 PM   #2274
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Sucks about all the mishaps lately. Header wrap looks the business. Great work!
Thanks man. I never thought I'd see you in here again I hope you're still with that girl loving the weather together in paradise.

Updates:
Ordered the balancer shaft retaining kit today too. Realized I should have ordered that a long time ago.



Cam gears should arrive tomorrow. I also realized today that I don't know how to set timing or I should say there's a lot of controversy over the proper way vs. 'manual intervention' way. (ie - let the spring do it or you do it). My gut tells me to trust the spring and the slack you get from it. Turn 3 teeth counter clock wise, let the belt tension and tighten the bolt. I've read of some people then removing the 10mm bolt that holds the manual tensioner. That didn't make much sense to me.

For the balancer belt I know that spring isn't OEM, so I'll manually set it.
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:09 PM   #2275
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That retainer will save your motor. Had mine pop the seal years ago. If I didn't have an oil pressure gauge, I would've lost the motor. For timing the motor, when I was running the h23 tensioner, it's a bit tight to get a new belt on there. The only thing you really have to worry about is making sure there's no slack between the crank and the exhaust cam. You'll definitely know if it's off a tooth. I employed a wrench on one of the cams to slide the belt onto the tensioner bearing.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:22 PM   #2276
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Originally Posted by Mike1357 View Post
That retainer will save your motor. Had mine pop the seal years ago. If I didn't have an oil pressure gauge, I would've lost the motor. For timing the motor, when I was running the h23 tensioner, it's a bit tight to get a new belt on there. The only thing you really have to worry about is making sure there's no slack between the crank and the exhaust cam. You'll definitely know if it's off a tooth. I employed a wrench on one of the cams to slide the belt onto the tensioner bearing.
I remember when i had it go on the F22. It was a rainbow of oil coming out of the front fender well, it was crazy! But will save my bacon!



Wrap had to come off for the WG clamp to get on. So re-did it a bit better.


Where the PS reservoir will go.


Need to order some PS line, and some heater hose for the back of the engine. Then do the transmission, clutch and we will be good to go!
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:53 PM   #2277
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I also started on the transmissions too. I gutted the new transmission to look over things. I degreased it and gave it a light coat of high temp paint, same as the block. I also started to dis-assemble the old transmission too. So far I'm not noticing any bent shift forks or issues yet which is what I expected. Tomorrow I'll take a look at the synchros, gears, etc.


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Old 06-10-2018, 07:27 PM   #2278
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Haven't stopped in here in a while. This build just gets better with time!
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:43 AM   #2279
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Yikes, I didn't know about that retainer clip. My engine didn't come with one... you may have just saved my build before it even ran!
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:29 PM   #2280
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Haven't stopped in here in a while. This build just gets better with time!
Hey man, I appreciate ya stopping in!

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Yikes, I didn't know about that retainer clip. My engine didn't come with one... you may have just saved my build before it even ran!
Yep, do it now while ya can. Known issue and ironically only on that one side.


Updates:
- Started on the transmissions. And believe it or not there are differences between the T2T4 and M2A4. The end of the case in the T2T4 has an extra opening and attaches the ... "black arm thing" inside differently. This had me stumped for a while as the M2A4 case only has one opening for the MS clamp.


I couldn't find bent arms in the old transmission which I almost don't believe as after a bad shift once it was getting 'stuck' in gear or out of gear. Hard locked. But guess it wasn't the arms. Oh, the only difference in the arms is the 'elbow' on the 4/5 shift fork.


I believe these are the 4/5 gear selector ring? (excuse my laziness to google the proper name). Very interesting as they have a different profile but it's hard to really say how.



Not sure I see the point in going past this stage. I can't see any of the old transmissions gears etc being in any better condition than the T2T4 I bought online. But I do want to see the 5th gear sychro on the old transmission as it was grinding for two summers! I bet even the gears are a bit worn.

--The worn shaft on the old transmission--


--Newer shaft--


The plan is to simply make a good transmission here which looks pretty simple now.

But I need a puller....... so this is on hold.
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