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Sonikaccord : 2001 Honda Prelude Base

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    #76
    Crank, no start. Shouldn't be too difficult. Are you still in Atlanta?

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      #77
      Yeah I’m here till the end of December.

      Did you figure out what the engines not getting?

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        #78
        No fuel.
        I figured that part out on Sunday.

        Today, I put my Fluke(I love that thing!) on an injector connector to see what's up. I found out that I have 12v on the YEL/BLK, but there is no ground on the other side when cranking the car, hence no fuel being injected.

        Ok, the problem here is that my pops threw the old key away and I had to buy a whole new key set with immo box. My assumption right now is that the special code that my original key shared with the ECU is no longer being sent by the replacement key. The key, the immo controller and the ECU are married. I have replaced the immo and the key and now the ECU is cutting the fuel supply. Now I have to either:

        Delete the immo chip in the ECU using a doctronics chip...again. I should've kept that chip. I think it's around $60 shipped for the chip from Xenocron.

        Get my old immo programmed to new key, which defeats the purpose of getting a new key set. $115 from some online locksmith.

        Learn to virginize my own immo so that I can use my own key. $?

        I have never seen pictures of this box taken apart on the internet. There may be a first here!

        Edit: I lied. There are pics here:
        http://ezflasher.com/documents/EZFLA...ANUAL-V1.6.pdf
        And it tells you what IC is the EEPROM, but it doesn't give you the contents of the IC.
        After more reading, I don't want to virginize my Immo. I just want it to send the correct code or rather match codes with the ECU. I may have to read two EEPROMs, the immo box and the ECU eeprom to figure out which values match, and then apply them to the new immo box eeprom...that's quite a bit of work.

        More learning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=qRz2b1S2PGk
        What I'm thinking is, the immo box holds the key values and the ECU just receives a unique code as an acknowledgement that the immo box has accepted the key. This occurs for any key that is programmed to the immo box. The code that is sent to the ECU does not change once married to the immo box! Thinking about how the doctronics chip works here is critical. It is only an EEPROM soldered on to a custom made PCB. It probably just delivers an "OK" code to the ECU's microcontroller, everytime, regardless of immobilizer state. That means the stock immo chip in the ECU has two functions, compare the immo box code to a stored value, give an OK command to the rest of the ECU.

        I'm wondering if, during manufacturing, all the ECUs were blank at first, then they were married to the immo box at first power on. If that is the case, I would only have to blank the ECU's immo chip and re-marry it to my current immo box...hmmmm. Talk a walk in my thought processes guys lol.
        Last edited by sonikaccord; 11-15-2017, 08:51 PM.

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          #79
          I have the EEPROM dump from my original immo box...I have no freaking clue what any of the bytes are. Now I have to grab the ECU immo chip and the new immo box dumps. This is the first time I've ever seen the hex dump for this style of Honda immobilizer. Ha! First on the internet still! I'm going to post pics once I get everything sorted...for security purposes. I don't want anyone's NSX getting stolen, since they use the same system.

          Due to time constraints, I'll have to skip reprogramming the immobilizer EEPROM...maybe. I ordered the Mobilizer-A0 from Xenocron to bypass the immobilizer. It's going to take more trial and error than anything which won't be of much benefit to me right now. Trying to get this thing rolling quickly.
          Last edited by sonikaccord; 11-21-2017, 07:33 PM.

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            #80
            Started the car for the first time today. Oil pressure shot up to 80-90 psi. The balance shaft delete installation is probably ok. I have a very, VERY, bad vacuum leak somewhere. My idle jumps to 4k ish rpm. It makes a loud whistling noise, you guys have to hear it. I have to take care of that next.

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AHTIJkZ98Q

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              #81
              Were you able to get some of the vacuum leak figured out yet?

              Damn that whistle is loud from the leak.
              MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                #82
                I did find the leak. Apparently the Euro-R manifold does not work well with throttle bodies that have the FITV built in. So, how to seal this hole?

                At first I tried this, permatex gray filled in the cavity...then I thought about how poorly that would end up if a chunk decided to fly in the combustion chamber.


                Next idea, find a rubber plug. This one hurt me a bit inside because I don't like destroying tools, but it was fairly cheap and it seems to fit the bill perfectly. A rubber mallet cut down into the shape of the cavity.



                This was a successful mod. No more vaccuum leaks. Idle is steady at about 800 rpm. I let the car warm all the way up until the radiator fans kicked on a few times. Oil pressure and water temp stayed in a good range. The best part? No leaks!

                Now I need to replace some suspension components and drive her for the first time in a while!

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                  #83
                  She's up and running! Did a few rounds through the neighborhood and everything seems OK. I have two codes: one is due to my VTEC pressure switch not being installed, the other is EGR valve insufficient lift. I don't remember if I reinstalled the EGR vacuum line or not.

                  Initial thoughts:
                  The car is freaking low. I forgot how close to the earth you sit in this thing. Its awesome.
                  There is a lot of vibration at idle, even with the stock mounts. Might be due to the balance shaft delete. I don't remember it being that bad with the belt removed. I enjoy a little vibration, it makes the car feel alive.
                  The clutch feels like a stock clutch! I was really surprised at how easy it was to engage. I have to run it through the breaking period before I start romping on it, but I'm thoroughly impressed with the smoothness of the 4 puck, semi-metallic clutch.
                  The lightweight flywheel compliments the car. It makes rev matching a thought-less process. There is no transmission noise that I can pick up. It is easy to drive, no need to rev it to 3k just to take off like some posts may indicate. That may be due to the...
                  H23a Engine:
                  This thing is effortless in power, for a 4 cylinder I haven't gone pass 4krpm in gear but it has balls, is responsible to throttle input, smooth power on the stock ecu but I feel it needs some turning to really bring it out.

                  Next:
                  Insure, emissions, register, wash, drive!!!
                  There are a few clunks coming from the rear to check.
                  I am also converting the front suspension to the SH setup. I feel that it is superior.

                  Last edited by sonikaccord; 12-20-2017, 09:18 PM.

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                    #84
                    Do you feel a real difference in the 2.3L vs the 2.2? Granted, the aftermarket clutch & flywheel are going to skew things.

                    People always say, "oh, it's just a tiny bit more torque." But the internal characteristics are still different, so personally I would imagine it feels different across the whole rev range, given that it has the same compression on a longer stroke, and the lower redline. Peak numbers certainly aren't everything.

                    Accord Aero-R

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                      #85
                      Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                      Do you feel a real difference in the 2.3L vs the 2.2? Granted, the aftermarket clutch & flywheel are going to skew things.

                      People always say, "oh, it's just a tiny bit more torque." But the internal characteristics are still different, so personally I would imagine it feels different across the whole rev range, given that it has the same compression on a longer stroke, and the lower redline. Peak numbers certainly aren't everything.
                      To be honest, I don't remember what the 2.2L felt like. It's been well over a year since I have driven this car, and I'm sure my comparison would be off. It wouldn't be too hard to find a stock Prelude to test against.

                      I passed the emissions test after I figured out my P0505/hunting idle issue. It was due to the throttle plate not fulling closing. Discovered that one with a few squirts of water into the throttle body. I adjusted it by eyesight, holding it up to the sunlight and turning throttle stop screw until the smallest amount of light came through perimeter of the plate. The engine was able to be stalled by covering up the IACV hole. No more leaks!

                      I cleared my CEL and engine monitors and started the cycle over. Within about 10 minutes all the monitors were complete and I immediately went to the emission station because ya know...cars like to act up. I got my emissions updated and now I have to wait until next week or so to get my tags.

                      I HAVE TO GET RID OF THESE WHEELS!!! Anybody wanna do the whole stancelife thing?

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                        #86
                        Car is legal! 1st gear just spins, these tires and wheels are not appropriate for my application. I didn't max it out because I still have about 700 miles to put on the clutch for proper break in. Plus, I'm running Supertech oil for engine "break-in", mainly because I wanted cheap oil to circulate all the particulates through the regular filter before I put the good S2k filter on.

                        I still have an idle hunt sometimes. I'll have to keep an eye on it so I can see what situations that it happens in.

                        I also have negative fuel trims, like damn near pegged out negative (-14&#37. I need to check my O2 sensors and make sure the pre and post cat sensors aren't flipped. I doubt it. The car would run like ass if that were the case.

                        I hate to admit this, but the Prelude's interior feels cheap. After dailying my ZHP, everything about the interior seems toy-like. It doesn't help that it has been previously spray painted which gives it a terrible sheen. There are rattles. The turn signal stalk feels like Hasbro manufactured it. It's really bad. I'd rather gut it, which I plan to do anyway, and run some carbon fiber door panels lol.

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                          #87
                          Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
                          Played with the connectors today to practice my soldering. They really need to be cleaned of all the old solder and flux. That's going to be a pain to do.


                          First strip the wire and no I don't need no fancy strippers to do this, just a sharp pair of cutters:


                          Here's the OEM wire for comparison. Notice how it isn't tinned nor twisted like the other wire. This isn't the M22759 wire, btw. Just some random mil-spec, M81044 I believe, wire laying around.


                          Next, tin the wire!


                          Grab some solder:


                          Throw it in the cup:


                          Add heat and insert wire:


                          Hmmm...two issues here. Not enough heat (thermal mass = bigger tip) and insufficient solder.

                          That's pretty much the process until I find a consistent good technique. I got somewhat good at it, but my home soldering stuff is much different than the stuff at work, which means I'll have to tweak the process a bit more.
                          Where did you get these connectors? I could of used them on my odyssey when I was making my harness. I tried to google/ebay MIL Spec connectors but couldn't find anything like the ones you have.
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                            #88
                            Originally posted by BreckAConner View Post
                            Where did you get these connectors? I could of used them on my odyssey when I was making my harness. I tried to google/ebay MIL Spec connectors but couldn't find anything like the ones you have.
                            They were on eBay. I was randomly searching for cheap MIL-spec connectors and ran across them. I guess it was just good timing!

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                              #89
                              I hear ya on the cheap feeling. I always felt civics were like this which is why i do not like them. Accords felt a bit better. But if someone painted the interior parts that makes it even worse. So you just need to redo all the interior

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                                #90
                                Big update:
                                1/7/2018

                                Car is in my driveway
                                Going to sell these XXRs to my friend an pick some wheels. I want to do RPF1s strictly for their lightweight properties, but I can't convince myself to get a wheel that everyone has or has had before. Plus, I don't know if they will fit over my old RL brake caliper set up that I had on my CB.

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