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Sonikaccord : 2001 Honda Prelude Base

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    Sonikaccord : 2001 Honda Prelude Base

    I got another daily/beater/project car. I purchased it for $2500. It came with 2 spare H22As that I will practice my nonexistent motor building skills on. One is completely disassembled and the other has a bent valve. Both are Type-S. It came with an extra set of wheels that I'll probably sell because I don't need nor want them. I think they are Prolines or something like that.





    Here is the background of this car:
    I have a 2001 honda prelude base model 5spd
    I just recently dropped a used 2000 prelude base motor in it bc my last one bent a rod.
    I dropped the motor in smooth sailing and i test start the engine with no radiator, evap system, or accessory belts hooked up. Engine cranked and ran and idled just fine. Before it got hot i shut it off and continued to hook up the rest of the parts. Once allllll was in place no plugs unplugged i started again only this time the engine will fire and shut right back off. Here is what i have checked and replaced

    Crank sensors
    Knock sensor
    Cam sensors
    Distributor + plugs and sparks
    Cleaned the injectors professionally
    Checked all grounds
    Ignition coil
    Fuel pump and all lines including the rail
    Immoblizer unit.

    I even went as far as putting a new ECU and ignition and immobilizer in there just in case the ecu was bad
    Im running out of ideas any suggestions would help greatly. When you put a test light on the injectors on the ON position they show full power. But as you are cranking they only pulse it seems to be once out of the four times they should be firing. When the light pulses on the injectors the car cranks over thens shuts off.
    If you shoot brake cleaner into the manifold the car runs perfect. So that must be the issue but what is causing it?? Yes i replaced the fuel pump relay and the pgmfi
    So the PO replaced a ton of things, but if you follow my other thread about diagnosing this problem (http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207433) you can see that the problem was the wrong balancer drive pulley. It was for an OBD1 motor which doesn't have the CKP sensor poles on the pulley like the OBD2 one. Swapped the correct one on and now it starts and runs pretty good. I haven't aired her out yet. I think I need a break from the CB, too. Something new-ish to work on. I've been driving old faithful for almost a decade now. It's really time for a proper rebuild on her anyway. Something like what Rilas has done with his.


    Now for the pics...which I will upload later because I'm typing this at work


    The mandatory mod list:

    Propulsion:
    DC Header (installed)
    Euro-R Manifold (have, not installed)
    Generic Cold air intake (installed)
    Ghetto(DIY) Manual Tensioner (installed)
    New Timing Belt
    Balancer belt removed
    New stuff from PO listed above
    New Axles
    New Slave Cylinder
    New Fuel Filter
    New Engine Harness (well exceptionally clean so I'm going to assume new)

    Outside:
    Foglights
    Depo Blackhoused Headlights
    Blue Repaint
    Tint
    Front Lip (want)
    Side skirts (want)
    Rear Lip (want)

    Rolling Stuff:
    17" XXR 526 (installed)
    Tien Coilovers (installed)
    SPC adjustable balljoints front and rear (Installed)

    Interior & Electronics:
    Spray painted panels (installed, looking for a clean set)
    Alpine Type-R components (Installed)
    Some cheap head unit (Installed)
    Eclipse 5 channel amp (want)

    Anyway...this car is slammed. The Tiens are literally maxed out. Not my style, so it's going to get lifted about 1.5".
    The XXR 526s are nice and have gotten a lot of compliments from non car people, but they aren't classy enough imo. I want some BBS's...gold with a polished lip.
    There is a rattling noise at about 3k rpm. (Hole in the exhaust)
    The A/C is pretty much non-existent. It may only need a few lines. (May leave out)
    The interior...oh God the interior. There is black spray paint on the console, doors, dash, and the little small kick panels. (Replace everything)
    The ECU wiring has been touched and will have to be repaired to my standards.
    The engine bay needs a wire tuck.
    The key only works in the driver's door and ignition

    Things to do/Quick Checklist:
    Lift car
    Find some BBSs or Fikse FM-5 (May go with some stock blades or RSX Type-S wheels. I want to DRIVE this car, not just look cool)
    Fix Paint Blemishes
    Replace Painted Interior Parts
    A/C Fix (Maybe)
    Ecu wiring Fix
    Acquire an amplifier
    Acquire a better Head unit
    Do a simple sound system install.
    Replace lock cylinders
    Install alarm

    Paint boo-boo:





    I have the rest of the interior parts.
    Last edited by sonikaccord; 09-06-2017, 07:57 PM.

    YouTube Clicky!!

    #2
    Some people shouldn't be allowed to own cars. But this guy seems strange. He does all of this crap to the ECU wiring and the interior, but he's thorough in his parts replacement process. Anyway, I'm glad you're enjoying it. I'm very familiar with the process of removing others' crap from a car right after purchasing it. With my most recent CL, it was more removing crappy OEM replacement parts. Part of it, I guess.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      Glad you finally figured out the issue with it. Also in doing so you saved yourself the headache of possibly breaking your timing belt or bending valves when the cam gear finally let loose. I can't believe you got so much extra stuff with the car including 2 H22A Type-S's, especially at that price. Most likely because he may have never gotten it running again. I would love to own a Prelude eventually, but right now the GF would shoot me if I brought home another car. Its a nice base to start with considering you sound like you need a break from CB wrenching. Also I don't know how people can do such tasteless and awful things to their cars. Especially like Jarrett pointed out, he seems to do decent with the mechanics.
      MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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        #4
        Looking forward to the pics, I love Preludes.


        Accord Aero-R

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          #5
          This is officially the worst thing that I've had to do...well maybe second worst. If you have ever changed a fuel filter on a Prelude, it's a total bitch.

          Anyway un-painting the door panel is progressing slowly.



          I really, really just want to say F'it and buy a set of panels. I'll be patient and keep working at it. So far I've been using my wife's hair dryer and carefully peeling off large chunks. I'll need another method to remove the small pieces that inevitably will get left behind. Maybe a steam cleaner? I'd prefer not to use abrasive chemicals that may damage the vinyl.
          Last edited by sonikaccord; 09-06-2017, 07:59 PM.

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            #6
            I'm going to try to find a clean interior off Craigslist. There are a couple of part outs in my area.

            Anyway. I failed emissions because of the readiness code. I didn't drive her long enough. And as soon as I left the trading place,I got a code 45 and that would explain the hard limit at 6500 rpm.
            The plugs are fouled. My idle is not right. It cuts out at a stop. And I still have a surge when the engine is cold. I'm thinking there's still a vacuum leak at the MAP sensor.

            Other than that...this car is awesome.

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              #7
              Drove it at highway speeds today. It feels like a death trap. Rattles and shakes everywhere. I have a free day tomorrow so I'll take some pics.
              I also fixed my non-existent MAP sensor o-ring. Code 45 didn't show up after about 30 minutes of driving.
              The car shuts off sometimes when the engine idles, or when I push the clutch in. I'll raise the idle up a bit and see if it still does it.

              1/18/16

              Battery tie down obtained.
              More driving revealed more gremlins. Got a cat code, and an evap leak code. Took it to the muffler shop and got the cat replaced since the PO had it gutted. There are holes in the exhaust so I'll try to get a replacement soon. Power steering is functional-ish. It makes a lot of noise...must be air still in it. I still need to raise my base idle up to cure the stalling issue. The sway bar endlink bushings are non-existant. I'm missing the top bolt on the alternator. Don't know how I missed that one. I also need the base for the H1 low beam bulbs. Just a bunch of small stuff except the cat replacement.
              Last edited by sonikaccord; 01-18-2016, 07:28 PM.

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                #8
                That loud *clink* that I heard on the highway a few days ago...yeah that was my UCA balljoint nut coming off...And here is the really f'd up part, the UCA and the knuckle were completely separated for who knows how long but the car is so damn low that the knuckled kind of wedged itself in the UCA.

                A bit of backstory...I haven't driven this car above 65 mph yet because I haven't gone over every bolt, nut and bushing yet and ^^^THIS is exactly why. This morning, I heard a loud pop when I was backing out of the parking lot. I wondered to myself what that was, and assumed it was a spring that was binded up. So I continued driving and noticed that the car was doing more clanking than normal and that the car pulled to the left when I started to brake. At this point I was entering the highway on ramp, and something said to me "go check the car out." I pulled off at the next exit and made it into QuikTrip (Gas station) where I found that the knuckle and UCA decided to part ways. I'm thinking...oh fuck, I could've died. Well, maybe not that extreme, but it felt like it! I turned the hazards on and slowly proceeded back to my apartment via the street way. I made it back , safely, got my stuff for work and hopped in ol' faithful. MMMmmm I love that girl and all her quirks! It made me realize how well built she is...really felt solid and not fragile like the Lude feels (as of right now...that's going to change soon).


                You guys HAVE to see this when I get pics. I'll probably throw in OT just for shits. Now I have three people to blame for this:
                Me for not doing a full inspection of the car yet and actually trusting someone else with their mods.
                The PO for not using a damn cotter pin!!!
                MIDAS for not doing their "Courtesy Inspection."

                Other than that, I have passed emissions and successfully registered and titled the car to my name. I'm going to rockauto and ordering some suspension parts. This weekend, I plan on working on my wife's Thunderbird and may not have time to do any repairs/replacements to the Lude.

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                  #9
                  Damn dude. Glad nothing bad happened! Pics for sure.

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                    #10
                    Me too!!
                    Ok, so I tried to get a good pic but in doing so I kind of changed the position of the knuckle. Warning...these pictures are very sorry. It was cold and raining.




                    Look at that coilover!! It is bottomed out...
                    Last edited by sonikaccord; 09-06-2017, 08:00 PM.

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                      #11
                      Haha super low. I'm guessing no camber correction on the front either? You should have been riding on all outer tire, that's fucking sketchy. Did the bolt just leave, or did it get bashed out?

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                        #12

                        The threads are fine, I don't see anything out of place. I'm assuming that it just wasn't on tight enough. This is what the opposite side looks like:


                        No castellated nut, just some home depot style flanged nut. I can't remove it easily since the ball just spins in the socket. I'll end up replacing both joints. Should be a relatively quick and painless procedure. I did the same thing for the other side just to get this thing mobile for a few days.

                        Upper bushing is shredded.


                        I did clean my FITV and added new o-rings yesterday in an attempt to cure my hunting idle when the car is cold. It seems to have helped. I only got one hunt when I was testing it and the cold idle is down to 1600 rpm instead of 2000.



                        Last edited by sonikaccord; 09-06-2017, 08:05 PM.

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                          #13

                          SPC adjustable joints, maxed out for more negative camber. And still no cotter pin!

                          Lifted her up a bit. Went from this:


                          To this:


                          Result:
                          Last edited by sonikaccord; 09-06-2017, 08:08 PM.

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                            #14
                            Man that is sketchy work. Im glad you made it safely home after your knuckle separation. It makes me think the OP was a young teenager and just cut corners left and right
                            ~Nick~
                            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                              #15
                              He was a young guy, 20 IIRC. So he went through his high school phase with this vehicle (thinking about that, I may want to disinfect everything again )

                              I got a code P1457 after I got my emissions inspection. Yay, just missed it. I figured out that the purge solenoid is leaky, doesn't hold vacuum with the key on. These things are expensive, so I ordered one off the bay for 26 bucks.

                              Also, VTEC still no work. After I fix this CEL, I'll dig into that. I'm on the lookout for new wheels. I want something with a lip that fills the wheel well and is also lightweight. 17s preferably, but 16s will work.

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