Fan timer module

[Cb7_Qc]

not sure if i should post here or in electronic section?

but i think my fan timer is starting to have freegames, my fan (the one on the passenger side) stays on forever after i shut the engine every single time, and if i put the key on accessories it shuts off...it does that since i changed the motor a couple weeks ago, not sure if it could be related in any way?
every morning tho i get to the car, fan is off and i still have battery...untill yesterday...

so i checked the basic stuff, its not the fan switch because when i unplug it, the fan doesnt stop, its not my relay because when i swap it with the electric windows relay the fan dont stop either...so that leaves the fan timer

today i removed it (what a pain in the a$$) and opened up the module, i was hoping maybe it could be a simple fix like the DRL module (just reweld some cracked weldings and your good to go) but none of the weldings seem to have any visible damage...
so i figured, if the fan stays on, maybe its because one of the little ''things'' (transistors? capacitors? resistors? switches? no idea what they are, i suck at electricity stuff) welded on the board is broken and gives continious electrical current or something? so im wondering if there is any way to diagnose wich one if the faulty one? because i can get those little ''things'' for like..50 cents at a store nearby and welding a new one on would be a simple fix, because i dont want to buy a new module from honda and swapping for one from the JY i know for sure the problem will happen again eventually...

i will get a used one in the meantime but id really like to find a way to literally fix the module, has anyone done it before?

[EsperHamid]

not sure if i should post here or in electronic section?

but i think my fan timer is starting to have freegames, my fan (the one on the passenger side) stays on forever after i shut the engine every single time, and if i put the key on accessories it shuts off...it does that since i changed the motor a couple weeks ago, not sure if it could be related in any way?
every morning tho i get to the car, fan is off and i still have battery...untill yesterday...

your fan is working normally now since you changed the motor

if your battery is empty could be something else connected directly to the battery, or the battery itself or your sound system connections or poor grounding.

my fan keeps on till 10-15 minutes depends on the weather, now that we are in fall it shuts-off earlier than it was in summer, yet I still have like 12.34 V on my battery enough to start my car

one poor ground which is most likely to be fooled with oil is the one mounted between the valve cover and the P/S bracket.

I changed it 2 days ago and man when I turn on my lower head lights they seem way way better than before ... I could see better in the dark now.

Good Luck

[Cb7_Qc]

i know fan is supposed to stay running for some time after engine is off, but this is my 5th accord, all have done that but its not supposed to do it ''every single time you turn the engine off'' it does it when it needs to do it, plus it can stay on for a maximum of 15min +- but that doesnt mean it wont shut off after 3min if temperature is low enough...

now it has been 3 times i need to boost the car i nthe morning so i really think my timer is dying slowly...im just wondering if anyone has enough electrical knowldge to explain me how to test all the components on the board of the module

[EsperHamid]

all have done that but its not supposed to do it ''every single time you turn the engine off'' it does it when it needs to do it, plus it can stay on for a maximum of 15min +- but that doesn't mean it wont shut off after 3min if temperature is low enough...

My temp gauge is fully working and it does reach normal op temp and stays there summer/winter all the same ... still each time I shut off the engine the fans turn for about 10-15 minutes then they're off ... I think it is normal .. unless some other members have something else to say.

dunno why the forum has been a little slow on replies, members used to be on killing spree

[Stoner51]

Mine did this in the summer.

Turned out my coolant was low. Seems like that would be the first thing I checked but I didn't.

Have you checked the coolant level.

steve

[kapone]

Mine did this in the summer.

Turned out my coolant was low. Seems like that would be the first thing I checked but I didn't.

Have you checked the coolant level.

steve

same here ...

when my car does that now (because it never did that before, and its hot in fl) I automatically check the coolant level and its always about a quart low...

[EsperHamid]

same here ...

when my car does that now (because it never did that before, and its hot in fl) I automatically check the coolant level and its always about a quart low...

remove or loosen the fan bolts, turn on the car to normal op temp (you should already know where the normal op temp gauge is always at) then turn off the engine and look-up the radiator for leaks .... of course do it after you check all your cooling lines.

Mine had leaks on the metal part one straight below the upper neck and the other at right of the radiator behind the fan .... I used JB Weld for 48 hours then re-installed the radiator ... no more leaks. .. coolant stays at them same level.

PS: don't forget to tighten well the transmission cooling lines on the radiator this is how I lost a lot of ATF.

[esskater892]

Well shit mine never stays on after I turn the engine off. I wonder if that has something to do with my overheating issue. I've replaced my fan timer too and it didn't help. I'm gonna subscribe to this thread.

[EsperHamid]

Well shit mine never stays on after I turn the engine off. I wonder if that has something to do with my overheating issue. I've replaced my fan timer too and it didn't help. I'm gonna subscribe to this thread.

check the temp switch A and Switch B ... one at the upper radiator neck and the second on the thermostat housing

If they are withing specs then move to the Coolant Temp Sensor or TW sensor and check it

must be one of those ... Fan motors are highly unlikely to fail unless the car has been neglected for a long time

[kapone]

remove or loosen the fan bolts, turn on the car to normal op temp (you should already know where the normal op temp gauge is always at) then turn off the engine and look-up the radiator for leaks .... of course do it after you check all your cooling lines.

Mine had leaks on the metal part one straight below the upper neck and the other at right of the radiator behind the fan .... I used JB Weld for 48 hours then re-installed the radiator ... no more leaks. .. coolant stays at them same level.

PS: don't forget to tighten well the transmission cooling lines on the radiator this is how I lost a lot of ATF.

thanks for the advice ....

All though i have a slightly easier way to check for leaks...

I have a coolant pressure tester...

most of the time its actually my hose claps come lose ever so slightly from the engine vibrations, because of my solid mount in the front, and my lowered stiff suspension. So coolant leaks through the seams... I tighten them and problem is fixed for another month or so...

Driving a modified car is great...

BTW ... No coolant lines I have a 5 speed.

[EsperHamid]

thanks for the advice ....

All though i have a slightly easier way to check for leaks...

I have a coolant pressure tester...

most of the time its actually my hose claps come lose ever so slightly from the engine vibrations, because of my solid mount in the front, and my lowered stiff suspension. So coolant leaks through the seams... I tighten them and problem is fixed for another month or so...

Driving a modified car is great...

BTW ... No coolant lines I have a 5 speed.

Glad you fixed your problem ^____^ ... never let a problem related to a cooling system component be postponed ... it can affect other parts of the car ... what I learned is there's two components not to be postponed on a CB7:

- a broken engine mount
- a cooling system leak

a pressure tester is a great tool, I didn't have it so itwas a PITA to find my problem especially since my car had no overheating whatsoever ... but I had to always add coolant .. after quadruply checking my vacuum lines and other cooling hoses ... a hint drove me to remove the radiator .. my radiator didn't have those rubber bushing so it was very noisy when the fans hit .... which guided it me into removing it and found the leak ... my idle problems are mostly fixed

as for cooling lines, I meant all the cooling hoses not only those of the tranny ...