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Newb Tranny Question. Please help!

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    #16
    update to a dead thread.
    I looked under the clutch pedal and the nut/bolt were backwards.
    I also spun the 'adjuster' to make a lower clutch point and I only have issues if i drive for about an hour or so and put it in 5th with the foot to the floor.
    Next weekend the plans to take it out have a new flywheel just in case but replace the T/O bearing anyways because guy didn't do it.
    Thanks for everyone who helped chipped ideas on what it was but im guessing maybe the catch point was way too high.

    Comment


      #17
      Weird. The pedal shouldn’t need to be adjusted in most cases. Unless your guy fiddled with it. Glad you found at least a partial fix!






      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
        Weird. The pedal shouldn’t need to be adjusted in most cases. Unless your guy fiddled with it. Glad you found at least a partial fix!
        Thanks for your help through it though! Still learning but its cool that the clutch doesn't slip now. Glad I can actually get used to it

        Comment


          #19
          If the clutch isn’t slipping or acting weird, then you may be good. Changing the throwout bearing is definitely smart, but you can probably leave the clutch assembly alone if you think it’s working well. Might want to double check the torque of the bolts on the pressure plate, though. Any mechanic that wouldn’t install a new throwout bearing probably doesn’t bother using a torque wrench either.






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            #20
            Hey I couldn't ever see that pic of whatever was dripping on from the trans..
            but it sounds like if you drive about an hour & it starts to slip & you have
            fluids leaking...I would bet that you rear main seal is leaking.

            Especially since you say after about an hour of driving it slips.

            Change that seal please if you pull the trans. You will be very thankful
            since it sounds like the guy before you didn't do such a great job on the
            clutch replacement or whatever he did.
            Keep Pushing..

            Comment


              #21
              Good point. It’s smart to replace the rear main seal whenever you do the clutch. Sadly, that means the clutch assembly will have to come off after all.
              If that seal is leaking, that’s serious. If the rear main fails completely, it’s like pulling the plug in your bathtub. You’ll be lucky if you realize you lost all your oil and shut it down before the engine eats itself. Most aren’t that lucky.






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                #22
                I Hate to keep bothering you guys with simplistic questions but.
                Underneath the clutch pedal where that rod goes through and to the master cylinder (I think?) it drips a little bit of fluid INTO the car through that seal. Would this be a cause of anything/cause anything?
                Again I am taking the trans out Christmas break down here but things I can even look at might help out. Thanks!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Your master cylinder for the clutch needs to be replaced. The internal seals have failed and it's starting to leak. Eventually it will leave you with a non functional pedal.
                  MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Exactly that.
                    Also, the hydraulic fluid in the clutch system is highly corrosive, so clean everything that it touched thoroughly. Otherwise, you could end up with bare metal just begging for rust!






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                      #25
                      The fluid is just coming through that 'boot' on the interior.
                      Also. If my clutch is okay after 5th and about of mile or two of straight roads without stopping. However. I figured out my thermostat is stuck in the full open (first starts go 1k-2k-1k-2k-1k etc.) The old cooling fan melted through and got stuck on the shroud of it. I am going to replace the thermostat tomorrow and check the cooling fan fuse today.
                      What i'm getting at is would the cooling fan never being on (A/C is always off unless cars off and on acc to help cool it down after awhile), could this be another factor? especially since it gets worse if I sit at lights? I read something about if you stay still it just keeps the heat around it and i cant even tell if I ever get too hot on the car at all due to incorrect temp readings.

                      1. Would cooling fan never on be a POSSIBLE Cause (clutch point lower helps it for longer)
                      2. What else would you guys recommend that i check out?
                      Thanks again everyone for helping me out!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        The fluid coming through the boot of the master cylinder indicates the internal seals have failed, and it needs to be replaced. Eventually it's going to fully fail, and your clutch pedal will not move the pressure plate.

                        The clutch in our cars goes from the pedal, which actuates the master cylinder. The master cylinder pushes brake fluid to the slave cylinder, which then extends and pushes on the arm which actuates the fingers on the pressure plate releasing the clutch from being clamped to the flywheel.

                        The failed fan and or thermostat are their own separate issues and should be taken care of as well.
                        MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Rilas View Post
                          The failed fan and or thermostat are their own separate issues and should be taken care of as well.
                          I was referring to the trans getting hot causing a slip as it happens when i drive for awhile, sit at long lights or the car just isn't moving. Getting hot because there's nothing cooling it

                          Comment


                            #28
                            The only place the slipping can occur is between the clutch disk and the flywheel itself. Of course the transmission will get warm or hot after enough time. It is bolted to the engine which is having explosions occur inside of it generating massive heat. The transmission is bolted to the engine block and acts as a sort of heat sink, so it will eventually get warm. Also inside of the transmission you have metal on metal friction generating heat as the gears are working together.

                            Your cooling system only works on the engine, so as long as you aren't seeing it over heat you have nothing to worry about.
                            MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Rilas View Post
                              Your cooling system only works on the engine, so as long as you aren't seeing it over heat you have nothing to worry about.
                              That's the thing. My thermostat doesn't work so i can't ever tell where its at so i cant ever figure that out. Just figured it might help the trans out because it sits kinda in the middle of the two. Thanks!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Does the temperature gauge on the cluster not work?
                                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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