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What are some decent and affordable height and dampening adjustable coilovers?

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    #31
    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
    I ever heard of them. I’ll have to look into them!
    Mike, those are the ones I was talking about when we were discussing a possible CB7Tuner.com suspension kit. I've been trying to get some parts together to do some testing with them for fitment and things like that, just been too damn busy.
    Click Image for CB7Tuner.com Beanies, Decals, & Keychains!

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      #32
      Oh yeah!






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        #33
        I have koni's, ground control sleeves on the front, and h&r race springs and I don't care for them much. I feel like my car bottoms out constantly. Bump stop is cut in half as per installation instructions for the H&R's and the koni's set full stiff or full soft still have the same compression damping. There's like 3 bumps on i5 between longview and portland I bottom the front out on no matter what. I have heard bad things on here about k sports but everyone I know who has them loves them (and often they are the only coilover available for some chassis) but at this point I think I would have been happier with them.

        I have messaged koni and they are baffled. I sent pics of my car and it is not that low with the rear spring seat on the highest snap ring notch and the gc sleeves wound all the way up on the front the car only sits ~1.5 inches lower than stock. They claimed my car was "jacking down" but the issue isn't after driving on rough road... it's one minor bump in an otherwise flat road. They told me on full stiff the car should be almost unbearable on the street and it's hard to tell any difference honestly. They priced out rebuilds, revalving and shortening the shock body for me all of which cost more per damper to have done than they were to buy new, per service. I have marks in the front wheel wells in the undercoat from the control arm kissing the sheet metal so I don't think shortening the shock body will do much besides let the control arm hit the shock tower harder. Only thing I can see is that the compression damping is too soft (shock/spring rate thread says like 100 (units?) and the stock ones are 400 (units?). But everyone seems to love this setup so idk, maybe I got a bad set?

        TL;DR I have koni sports and H&R race springs and I don't love them/wish I had gotten k sports despite the bad rep they have here.

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          #34
          If you can’t tell the difference between soft and stiff, your shocks are either blown or faulty. The difference is extremely noticeable.

          And Ksport is another Chinese/Taiwanese made product from yet another company that doesn’t actually engineer anything.

          Koni yellows have a lifetime warranty. Send them back to koni.






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            #35
            Typically single adjustable dampers only change the rebound when the knob is adjusted. What I have read about the Koni's is that they have a bit of vagueness at either end of the adjustment range. Basically clicks at the far end of soft or hard do little to change the damping characteristic, in the middle there is a sweet spot where each click or turn makes a larger difference.

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              #36
              You can tell Koni's at full stiff. You do not want to drive with them on full stiff. It hurts. In fact, you're not supposed to drive with them at full stuff. Koni doesn't have "clicks". Its 2 full 360degree revolutions from soft to stiff. If you want to run them on stiff, then go full, then back 1/3 of a turn.

              But if you can't feel the difference, who knows, something may be up with the internals of the shocks. Like Deev said, if you are the original owner, send them to Koni for the lifetime warranty.

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                #37
                I have Tein super streets, hate them. They allow my UCA to hit when I feel they should be stiffer. But they do it on the weirdest bumps. Quick bumps, not rollercoasters. But not the first I've read/heard about this issue. Some get stiffer front springs i think... not sure.

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                  #38
                  More negative camber will fix that. It’s a geometry issue, not a dampening or spring rate issue. Though tein products are known to be a bit on the soft side. I don’t think they make any of their more race oriented products for the cb/cd. Not that the majority of us need race products.






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                    #39
                    How are you getting UCA hitting? Mine don't and I'm at Max low, or is it because I have more neg camber?
                    sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

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                      #40
                      Not a camber issue as I'm not hitting on the ends of the UCA or side of the wheel well. I'm hitting at the top of the UCA, the SPC adj. upper ball joint bolt is hitting. But it's weird, I can hit rollercoast bumps on the highway and have the exhaust hit the pavement but no UCA hitting. But a quick bump at a slower speed (40mph) on one side of the car or the other (IE - going through an intersection that has holes/dips) the exhaust doesn't hit but the UCA bolt bangs off the body.

                      It's a quick bump that they can't handle. It's like the shocks are too soft, but others mentioned on other forums that the front springs are too soft too. And i have the dampeners set to max level.

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                        #41
                        I know this will sound weird but try turning the damper adjustment down. As I mentioned somewhere else most single adjustable dampers only adjust the rebound (how much the damper restricts the suspension from expanding from compression) and setting this high may be binding up your suspension a bit. What could be happening as after the initial compression the high rebound damping isn't allowing the suspension to recover quick enough. On slow bumps you have a bit less compression going on and more time for the recovery to happen.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Bunta View Post
                          I know this will sound weird but try turning the damper adjustment down. As I mentioned somewhere else most single adjustable dampers only adjust the rebound (how much the damper restricts the suspension from expanding from compression) and setting this high may be binding up your suspension a bit. What could be happening as after the initial compression the high rebound damping isn't allowing the suspension to recover quick enough. On slow bumps you have a bit less compression going on and more time for the recovery to happen.
                          I had to read this a few times. But the issue is not the rebound, it's that the initial "going up" speed determines how the shock/spring react. / The compression state. And one could make a graph almost if put to the test. Based on the speed / bump the spring / shock has to react faster. I find these are too soft on the quick bumps but amazing on other smoother bumps.

                          - I will admit I've never tried turning them down. Read the research, how to set them, best settings, etc. and stiff is the setting I always used. I'm afraid if I choose a soft settings I'll bang too much
                          - Yes, I could raise the car in the front to fix this issue too
                          - Yes, it's probably the huge ass 21mm bolt the SPC camber kit uses too
                          - Yes, I know it's a grocery getter'

                          But I've read about the problem for a while. I think someone said you could swap the springs for another set but I can't remember/find that info anymore. So I just have to be careful.

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                            #43
                            That's more or less the same issue I have Raf! It's amazing through smooth sweeping corners or rolling sections of pavement, but any quicks dips or bumps and BANG. Rolling down the freeway in my car or in another car watching my car on any setting soft or stiff and the suspension is cycling a lot especially in the rear. Not like blown shock cycling, but definitely what appears to be underdamped. I really wanna get some data and set up a differential equation to know for sure but I don't have equipment to take the measurements lol. I would love to send them all in for warranty but this is my daily for now and I'm in college and don't really have the time or money to take it apart, put stock stuff back, get it aligned, pay for shipping, and wait.

                            I have one SPC balljoint that is the newer low profile design and one that has the large nut, freaking amazon. 😂

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                              #44
                              To me it seems that the compression damping is just too soft. They are the softest in compression damping on the sticky at 169 front and 67 rear and I've always thought it was odd considering the cheapest shocks on there have over double those rates.

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