F22A1 head replaced - issues

[2Sheds_Jackson]

I'm still finishing up my head gasket issue from August on my 93 auto F22A1 ( http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=209726 )

-Installed a refurbed head
-adjusted valve lash
-tensioned the timing belt
-flushed cooling system
-replaced rear vacuum actuated motor mount
-replaced most of the the hoses, seals, gaskets, o-rings, I could access
-(burped the coolant system after restarting it)

When complete, it started right up, and in my 70° garage went to about a 1400RPM idle.

My issue(s):
> after about 45 seconds when the motor warms a bit, there's a "click" somewhere in the intake, then the idle starts bouncing rapidly. I'm guessing that this is due to a vacuum leak...I may have forgotten a hose somewhere. I'm still tracking this down.

>CEL light is throwing a "6" - which is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. This is brand new. In troubleshooting, it says I should see 5V inbound to the sensor...but I am actually seeing 11V. The next step in my troubleshooting procedure is to "disconnect connector 22P from the transmission control module" and recheck voltage. Using the manual, I can't find which of the ECM/TCM connectors is 22P.

>I also have a D4 light that's bliking a code of "1". I think I need to clear up my "6" code issue before running this down.

So...to anybody who has replaced a few heads...is there any vacuum hose that's easily/commonly missed during reassembly? Anybody know what connector 22P is? What's the true meaning of life? So many questions.

[Jarrett]

Have you checked for corrosion build-up going into and coming from the IACV and the FITV on the front of the intake manifold? When you leave it running, do you feel heat on both radiator hoses, implying that the thermostat is opening, allowing coolant to flow through the engine (and likewise IACV) for the first time since it's been reassembled? I know you said you burped it, but heat on both hoses would verify that it was truly allowed to circulate.

[2Sheds_Jackson]

Thanks for the reply-

After starting it, I turned on the heater inside the cabin & verified it got hot. Also the indicator on the temp gauge rose to about the middle position. I felt the top rad. hose (it got hot)...did not check the lower but I'm guessing that the coolant was circulating ok.


The electric radiator fans came on as well...although it was kind of strange that the those fans came on well before the engine was hot...it had only been running 45-60 seconds. Maybe that's related to the "6" code and the ECM is turning the fans on because it's unsure of the coolant temp?

>>EDIT<< - I was able to run it for about 20 minutes right around 2000 RPM - the temp gauge never went above 1/2 way to H. Again the fans came on after about 60 seconds (engine still fairly cold) and ran the whole time. The top radiator hose got firm and also hot. The bottom one got firm as well, but never got hot. As far as I could tell, the thermostat never opened. While doing the work last week, I replaced the thermostat with a new 180&#176; unit. I guess it's possible the coolant never reached that temp...I'll have to measure it on my next opportunity.

[2Sheds_Jackson]

Just wanted to close this one out, now that I seem to have the issues fixed.

A 30 minute jaunt on the freeway revealed that the cooling system was working ok (water pump ok, thermostat opens etc.). Bouncing idle most was likely caused by air in the system. I had burped it, but it still seems like a good freeway drive wrings out the system a lot better than just revving it the garage.

The 6 CEL code was fixed by replacing the temp sensor that's on the front of the head -on the connection to the top radiator hose. Didn't make sense to me, but it worked and seems to be driving fine.

I have one last issue with timing, but I'll start a new thread for that.

[Jarrett]

The thing on the front water neck is a secondary fan switch, not a temp sensor. Still, it is a perfect candidate for having been the culprit.