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Old 02-07-2013, 06:39 PM   #1
DumbleDore!
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Ideas for AWD CBs! Motors? Drivetrains?

This thread is, now, for thoughts on AWD CBs. Post your thoughts on different motors, Honda or other, drivetrains, etc. What do you think would be cool? What do you think would even work?

I was thinking the other day about swaps and conersions and what not, and this came accross my mind. so I am seeing what people think. Evo VIII\IX motor, trans, and drive train in a 92\93 CB7. Sleeper, if you will. AWD. Turbo. I think it'd be awesome. Ideas?

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Old 02-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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I mean, Anything is possible if you got deep pockets....
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:51 PM   #3
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The cheapest easiest most dependable way would be buy an EVO and fit a cb7 body. If not we are talking fractions of a difference. With the tools I currently have at disposal I think that's how I would do it.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:24 PM   #4
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Look up AlmostJDM's RWD conversion project. Converting a CB7 to AWD would be just as complicated, if not more so.

Could it be done? Sure. Would it be worth the effort? Perhaps. You'd certainly have something unique, provided you can actually make it work reliably.

Personally, if I wanted an early 90s midsize family sedan with AWD and a turbo 4g63, I'd just buy a Galant VR4. Hell, it'd probably be cheaper and easier to make a Galant VR4 look like a CB7 than it would be to convert a CB7 to run an Evo engine and trans!
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
Look up AlmostJDM's RWD conversion project. Converting a CB7 to AWD would be just as complicated, if not more so.

Could it be done? Sure. Would it be worth the effort? Perhaps. You'd certainly have something unique, provided you can actually make it work reliably.

Personally, if I wanted an early 90s midsize family sedan with AWD and a turbo 4g63, I'd just buy a Galant VR4. Hell, it'd probably be cheaper and easier to make a Galant VR4 look like a CB7 than it would be to convert a CB7 to run an Evo engine and trans!
I'll have to check it out. It's not so much wanting an AWD 4G63 sedan, I could just buy an Evo, I want an AWD 4G63 CB7. ;]
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:45 AM   #6
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h22sparkle may have said something they shouldn't have...
Aside from all of this and awd the notion is nice putting it into a cb7but there is a factor remaining. The evo's chasis. There are so many bars on that car and reinforcement which makes the car very stiff in turns along in conjunction with the suspension. So evernthough you want awd make sure the handling is there.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #7
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Precisely.
The way CB7 would need when hacked up to accommodate a rear driveshaft and driven rear wheels, adequate bracing would pretty much HAVE to happen! In fact, with an extensive project like that, I'd suggest welding all the seams in the unibody (cut the tack welds and do a solid weld), and install a full cage. Now, a full cage isn't exactly safe on the street (you can hit your head on it.) That automatically takes all practicality out of such a project. The CB chassis would need the support, though, because even before you gut it like a fish to make a driveshaft tunnel, the rear of the car isn't built to handle any sort of torque. There's no twisting going on back there, so it was never reinforced. Any power going to the rear wheels will tweak the chassis terribly without bracing the car properly to handle it.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:42 AM   #8
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It would be cheaper to get a used EVO VIII
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im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:44 AM   #9
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It might be cheaper to get a new EvoX!
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:54 AM   #10
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All good thoughts and points, the reason I posted this. Shame, would have been a cool project. We'll see, although it sounds like I need a new idea. Haha
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #11
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You could still pull it off with careful planning, lots of trial and error, and at least twice the amount of money you'd expect to spend initially.

It's far more involved than simply bolting up new parts and fabricating some mounts, though.
Try tossing a FWD 4G63t setup in there first. If you can get that to work properly, then you could look into using DSM parts to add the AWD.
Or you could be even cooler, and adapt the Mitsubishi AWD system (or whatever system you like) to be used with an F22A
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
You could still pull it off with careful planning, lots of trial and error, and at least twice the amount of money you'd expect to spend initially.

It's far more involved than simply bolting up new parts and fabricating some mounts, though.
Try tossing a FWD 4G63t setup in there first. If you can get that to work properly, then you could look into using DSM parts to add the AWD.
Or you could be even cooler, and adapt the Mitsubishi AWD system (or whatever system you like) to be used with an F22A
If I were to do that, I'd use an F22B.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #13
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Why?
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:21 PM   #14
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Why?
Facepalm My bad, F20B. http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_en...mission,_&_ECU
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:03 PM   #15
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Even worse. Why?

And from that place? Good luck. You live in CA, why the fuck do you want an engine from NJ? I live in NJ, and even I wouldn't buy an engine from them! Buy from hmotorsonline.com if you want something worth installing. I suggest H22A if you want to swap at all (the F22A has a ton of potential, though...)

The F20B was never sold in the US, so finding parts for it that aren't shared with the H22A is tough. It is OBD2, so you'd never be able to use a proper ECU for it unless you convert your car's wiring to OBD2. The F20B came in two varieties, 180hp and 200hp (a little less on both counts, but that's the easiest way to put it.) From most resellers, especially the shady cheap ones like jdmenginedepot, you'll probably end up with the 180hp version. 180hp and low torque due to the 2.0L displacement... that's a turd. Honestly, not a whole lot better than the F22B.
Yes, the F20B was designed for racing. It was designed for a class that was limited to 2.0L. It's not a racing engine... it's an engine that was designed under considerable restrictions.
And it's common enough that it's not very "different".
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:48 PM   #16
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It is OBD2, so you'd never be able to use a proper ECU for it unless you convert your car's wiring to OBD2
Why would you even want to use an OEM ECU? I would say if you are already doing such an extensive project, you might as well swap the engine management for a MegaSquirt or VEMS or DIYPNP or something (and all of those are kind of the same thing, just in a different package...)

Atleast here in Finland you don't need to have functional OBD-ports for cars that were originally registered before 1.1.2001, and if in the US they check the OBD from older cars too then you could just install the aftermarket ECU parallel to the OEM one.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:55 PM   #17
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An OEM ECU is properly calibrated for the engine. If it's not heavily modified, the OEM ECU is by far the best option. It is also MUCH cheaper (which is why sparky here is looking at the F20B from that shady engine seller in the first place... because it's cheaper than the H22A by a small amount.)

An aftermarket fuel management system would need to be properly tuned for the engine, which requires expensive equipment, detailed knowledge, and access to a dyno to do correctly... and if any of that is lacking, it will also involve the expense of hiring someone to do the tuning!

Different areas of the US have different requirements. California is one of the strictest areas, and it's very difficult to legalize a swap at all, let alone custom engine management systems.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:59 PM   #18
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h22sparkle may have said something they shouldn't have...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzAhdUBBYI4 just save up and get one.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:59 PM   #19
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This thread isn't about getting a new car, though. It's about modifying a CB7.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:31 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
An OEM ECU is properly calibrated for the engine. If it's not heavily modified, the OEM ECU is by far the best option. It is also MUCH cheaper (which is why sparky here is looking at the F20B from that shady engine seller in the first place... because it's cheaper than the H22A by a small amount.)

An aftermarket fuel management system would need to be properly tuned for the engine, which requires expensive equipment, detailed knowledge, and access to a dyno to do correctly... and if any of that is lacking, it will also involve the expense of hiring someone to do the tuning!
It's a pretty common thing here to use MegaSquirt, since it was designed and built to be used as a DIY application in all kinds of engines. In the most basic sense the only things you'll need are the kit to build it and a laptop with Windows to connect to it. Of course dyno runs are necessary but I would think they always are when tuning an engine (especially here since you often need to provide dyno forms to pass MOT with a "home made engine" which for example an aftermarket turbo'd engine would classify as).

Or maybe it's just me being OCD about tweaking all the smallest details of how the engine runs in any given situation...
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