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CV joint/axle rubbing on transmission case.

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    CV joint/axle rubbing on transmission case.

    Hello everyone ,

    I am not new to the site, but I am new to the site. Thank you to Lucid for the great swap information, evil_demon_01 and deevergote for a great site, 90Cb7sleeper, Jarrett and many others for all the straight to the point useful information.

    Following Lucid's swap information, I swapped an ODB1 JDM H22 engine (automatic) into my 93 LX. Everything is fine for the first 15 mins of driving , then hell breaks loose . A rubbing noise comes from under the car, when I accelerate. The sound was strongest under the driver's side of the car. I assumed it was on that side. The car gets sluggish, and takes longer to shift gears at higher RPMs. You can hear the transmission having to do extra work.
    Before I figured out what was causing the rubbing noise, I swapped in a different transmission, it made the same noise. I tried new brake pads-No, new rotors - No, new calipers-No, new brake hoses-No, new bearings-No, New axles-No. The engine mounts are in good condition, so I ruled those out . But when I was removing the axle from the passenger side, I saw the grooved marks on the side of the case . It shows where the inner joint is rubbing against it. I looked at the other transmission I tried before, and the marks were in the same location too. I don't know what else to try again . I assumed maybe the engine is mounted too low or too high with the stock Accord mounts. I Google searched so many times for this problem and nobody has this problem, but lucky me .

    Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated...Thank you !

    P.S. This problem has been going on since July 4th.

    #2
    Problem update.

    Replaced all the engine mounts, and the problem went away for a day.
    Then it came back

    With a trial and error, I decided to drop the height of the engine on the passenger side and the rubbing noise went away. But the power is reduced, and the annoying transmission ticking noise is louder only when the car is warm.
    It's kind of odd that the car runs well for the first 20 mins when it's cold, but does a 180. I think that might be exhaust leak related.

    A few questions if I may ask; Does the engine needs to be level, and can it possibly be mounted too high?
    Do you think the extra weight of the H22, would affect the front suspension? If it does, I will replace them.

    Thank you for your help.

    Comment


      #3
      do you have any pics of the damage?

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        #4
        I will post some pics soon

        I will post some pics soon, I have to take off the new axle. The rubbing seem to have cut the axle boot and grease is all the place, second time in a row.

        Comment


          #5


          A video of my crappy sounding H22.

          The noise is coming from the driver's foot well.
          The car has no power, acceleration is rubbish.
          I re-did the timing belt again today, so I am positive it is at TDC.
          Maybe the iginition timing is out of wack.

          I will post the pictures next.

          Comment


            #6
            Some rubbing pictures

            Rubbing marks on the top right on the passenger side.

            https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8jn...p=docslist_api

            https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8jn...p=docslist_api

            Grease all over after the noises cut my inner boot again

            https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8jn...p=docslist_api

            Comment


              #7
              I've had similar issue with my friends a 5 speed swapped H, the passenger axle would pop out a little causing some of the grief you're dealing with. Just looking at the timing side of the engine, it looks level and at the right height. In regards to the axle issue you're having, first check the snap ring by making sure the axle hub on the trans side doesn't come out easily, if it does you'll have to try to expand it, and repeat test, I really think the axle shaft is shorter than what's recommended. Pull the axle, bring it with you to the parts store, and compare it to a non abs (90) auto, and an abs (93) auto axle. If there's no difference go to a different store. You'll need to find one that is at least 1 or 2 mm longer, usually it will have one or two yellow lines in the middle of the shaft sometimes with a blue line too, To me those marks indicate that there are factory Honda shafts rebuilt. Now with Honda auto transmission, they can be hit or miss it depends on two factors from its previous life: Maintenance and using Honda Fluids! You can't cheap out on fluids, and check them religiously. Good luck, also more pics will help, what trans? tcu?

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                #8
                Thank you for the help!

                I am using the original Prelude Automatic transmission the H22 was mated with, with a P13 ECU.

                But I did learn that on the passenger side axle, the inner boot had a pin sized hole in both of my new axles. I took apart the inner joint, and there was a friction marks on the rubber boot at the pinhole location.
                And when I dropped the engine height on the driver's side, the driver side axle then got a pinhole in its inner rubber boot too.

                So it seems like the engine might be mounted a little too far forward, causing a weird angle and stress on the inner to rip a small hole in it.

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