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90-93 Accord Adjustable Front Upper Control Arm AKA Camber Kit 4 Degree

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    #46
    There is absolutely no way to fully correct camber when lowered beyond a certain point without adding clearance. It is a matter of geometry, not poor design on ESP’s part. The upper ball joint must move outward and upward. Even if the arm and joint were to be as compact as possible, it would only allow for a very slight improvement.






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      #47
      his replies were: I will relay the information to the manufacture of the issue as we are not the manufacture. What I can do in the meantime... Is your alignment already done with the car? Slider plate is where it needs to be? I would mark the slider plate all on the unit so I can re install it in same spot. I would then also mark where the unit is hitting the inner fender well. You may then send it back to me and I will modify and trim it accordingly. The CB chassis can only give what it can give on clearances this is why no one had made a kit for it. What many people do these days is make camber kit steel cover plates for the shock tower for added clearance. I get you do not want to do this so we will trim them accordingly.

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        #48
        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
        There is absolutely no way to fully correct camber when lowered beyond a certain point without adding clearance. It is a matter of geometry, not poor design on ESP’s part. The upper ball joint must move outward and upward. Even if the arm and joint were to be as compact as possible, it would only allow for a very slight improvement.
        Can't agree with you there. First this is promoting 4 deg. for our cars. & my point is that these things are square as sponge bob, vs OEM or aftermarket where they have rounded corners to fit up in the area of concern. I'm not talking about banging the UCA off the top of the shock tower area (we all know the limits) I'm talking about scraping the sides. People have issues with OEM / aftermarket which have rounded corners, to think that these will work without Q&A is dreaming.

        Ex: you can take a car setup that is lowered 2-3" w/ X camber that does not hit / rub / bang, and install these. I guarantee you they will hit / rub (probably not bang as you are not changing the lowered aspect).

        This is 100% ESP design fault. But technically not a design fault as they admitted to not doing Q&A for these.

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          #49
          Even at lowered 2-3" these won't just rub / scrape, they will literally have the body sitting on the UCA's with no movement possible. I need to get pictures and some measurements to ESP to work on this.
          MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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            #50
            Ah, ok. I see what you mean. They’re wider at the point where the ball joint sits, correct? I can see how that would cause issues.






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              #51
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              Ah, ok. I see what you mean. They’re wider at the point where the ball joint sits, correct? I can see how that would cause issues.
              Yep. It would rub inside the strut cavity which faces the outside of the car (towards wheel). Coming from a guy who owns several ESP products I was disappointed on them trying to sell this here with no Q&A. I had someone else text me who bought these and say they rub too. No issues for other ESP products but these should not be for sale on this site in their current state. I would think they could at least try to make them close to OEM dimensions. But ESP said himself...

              "Still waiting to here back... If anyone wants to try them out. Email Us. If there is any issues manufacture has been willing to alter them. Just need feedback/measurements if any issues."

              So maybe folks who rub can providing feedback in here.

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                #52
                well, upon numerous attempts to insert the three images onto the post unsuccessfully, I give up. So just know if one were to order said product, you would have to cut about an inch or so away from the entire shock tower hump on both sides and weld in two giant sized towers in place plus cut about half inch of fender liner where it hits.

                It is impossible to give the product back to him with markings to where the alignment would produce correct camber (looking for -1.0 degree which within oem spec tolerable limits) because it will not get past the liners and towers it is way too long and wide for cb's

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                  #53
                  I have some down time and I'm in between projects on my Accord. I'll get busy and get some pictures uploaded, so we can all see the problems.
                  MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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                    #54
                    Agree with djALBINI. I mean, seriously. If OEM will rub under 3+deg camber + lowered situations how the F would these even come close to working. This is almost a joke .....as they don't even come close to fitting. The modification needed on this = making a whole new unit.

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                      #55
                      It’s the actual tip of the oem arm that rubs (or the adjustable ball joint added to it, if that’s the camber correction option utilized). A kit that maintains the width of the oem arm would have the same issues. With a wider end, it clearly hits before the tip makes contact, reducing clearance so that it’s nearly unusable in any situation where it would actually be needed.

                      Ultimately, I don’t feel there really is a way to improve a camber kit for the CB. A quality anchor bolt or quality ball joint kit will do everything that can be done. The problems we’ve all experienced with rubbing is a result of geometry.






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                        #56
                        Agreed. Best scenario is OEM UCA with SPC flat style top adjustable upper ball joint. But still rubbing and banging if not adjusted properly. Our cars were simply made for 4x4 mode :P

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                          #57
                          I am working with the Manufacture on a solution. However the Chassis will ONLY give you what it can give. The Fender seam is pretty inward. The Shock Tower Window Plates are becoming more and more common. Especially in the EG/DC.

                          I am currently working with a Customer that has been very helpful on Pictures, markings and will be for now trimming the End Plate corners to clear. We will finese the Control Arms Trimmage to clear. Thanks

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                            #58

                            Thanks for addressing it, John. It means a lot when feedback is taken seriously so improvements can be made!






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                              #59
                              here is a possible solution by JUN that looks stockish and may work for us..

                              https://www.junauto.co.jp/gallery/re...pperarm_ek.jpg


                              looks very close to the stock upper arm imo

                              Im ordering and giving it a shot

                              my esp order did not work at all and it sits here collecting dust since john wont take it back
                              Last edited by djALBINI; 07-15-2019, 02:11 PM.

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                                #60
                                How do you plan to attach the anchor bolts? Ours go off into a wishbone design, where those are a bolt
                                ~Nick~
                                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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