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Old 02-09-2009, 05:00 PM   #1
h22sparkle
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DIY boostleak test

OKay everyone since noone hasnt covered this im going to. In order to make sure that everyone is up to speed like me i figure why not. Sure so you say you want boost and now you have it.

But are you sure that you are running at peak top shape and that your precious boost isnt being well used and not wasted. Well fear not im going to show you how to boostleak your car .

Now a boostleak is when you have a leak of optimized pressure that supposed to be optimal for the car to run properly and get the power that its properly desired. Any leak in boost is bad when it comes to turbo and even N/a cars. It can trigger a number of things that would make your car run like crap. It can mainly affect things like:

-gas-mileage
-spark blow out consistanly cut due to computer safeguarding itself over a certain limit in the rpm range.
-fuel delivery
-computer calibration pulled timing
=basically lowered hp and torque
overall in time engine damage

So to counteract it lets perform a boostleak test. Here are some of the tools you will need:

1 pvc endcap it should look like this


1 silicon coupler and bicycle valve stem

all parts can be found from home depot and autozone and lets not forget the jb-quick for a nice seal to make sure there isnt any leaks

heres what yoru end product should look like when your down. You must first drill a hole in the pvc end-cap wide enough for the valve bicycle stem to fit in through nice and snug.

Then jbquick weld the inside and outside of the pvs end-cap. Then place the pvc end-cap insice the pvc silicon coupler. When your down it should look like this


Then now we are ready to proceed. Now you attach the end of the open side of the boostleak tester to your inlet side of the turbo like so

You then want to attach a nice air compressor to it like so
Once you get to a certain optimized pressure say 5-6 psi on your boostguage or more should need no-more than 7 psi.

But and I quote :BOOSTLEAK TEST THE CAR WITH THE CAR OFF!!! DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT DO IT WITH THE CAR ON. I will not be responsible for someone elses screw up you been warned.

Now lets finish this up when your boostleak testing when you reach a certain psi nomore than 7 psi needed. You leave the boostleak tester on the turbo clamp it down as tight as the clamp would allow with the air compressor attached to it. You shouldnt have any leaks on the tester. While its pumping air in the chargepipe you should check for any distinctive hissing sounds.

Distinctive hissing sounds and slight air openings in the system are considered boostleaks. You can prevent boostleaks by getting better couplers and t-bolt clamps which you can find at your local autopart store . Once your done you shouldnt hear any leaks or feel any leaks once your done and get your car set you shouldnt have any problems holding boost. Dont forget to tightendown what you gotta tighten down and make sure theres no leaks in the system. Goodluck and be safe I ask for a sticky. This is my contribution to the cb7tuner community to make sure everyones running right.

Last edited by h22sparkle; 02-09-2009 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:26 PM   #2
flcb7
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Very nice write up!
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:53 PM   #3
93_f22aky
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i second sticky nice right up and have been seeing all kinds of problems with ppl haveing boost leak problems
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:30 PM   #4
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very good writeup, i should do this.


except it only focuses on the compressor, IC, and piping (which is indeed where mostly all the boost leaks occur)
i was tryna figure out where i was loosing ~5psi from boost from, til i found my turbo-manifold gasket blew a hole in it
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:03 PM   #5
h22sparkle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
very good writeup, i should do this.


except it only focuses on the compressor, IC, and piping (which is indeed where mostly all the boost leaks occur)
i was tryna figure out where i was loosing ~5psi from boost from, til i found my turbo-manifold gasket blew a hole in it
You say turbo manifold gasket if the turbo is attached to the manifold the leak should reveal itself there too. All of that is pressure like the turbo, manifold,charge-pipes and vacuum-lines too
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:05 PM   #6
twokexlv6coupe
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how would it possibly find that leak? the compressor and turbine aren't connected by any tubes that would transfer the air pressure.

if you put the air into the inlet of the compressor, it'll go thru the compressor into the IC piping, to the IC, and finally to the throttle body. there's no way for the air pressure to go from the cold side of the system to the hot side. ya dig?
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:07 PM   #7
h22sparkle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twokexlv6coupe View Post
how would it possibly find that leak? the compressor and turbine aren't connected by any tubes that would transfer the air pressure.

if you put the air into the inlet of the compressor, it'll go thru the compressor into the IC piping, to the IC, and finally to the throttle body. there's no way for the air pressure to go from the cold side of the system to the hot side. ya dig?
Well im giving an example it can boostleak test through to meet the exhaust manifold gasket in other words thats a turbo manifold gasket. Do ya dig well mine has tubes that transfer pressure so not all cars are the same so please keep that in mind.

Last edited by h22sparkle; 02-10-2009 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:48 AM   #8
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you could also clamp this thing onto your muffler tip and test the exhaust side for leaks.....
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Old 02-14-2009, 11:51 AM   #9
h22sparkle
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you could also clamp this thing onto your muffler tip and test the exhaust side for leaks.....
maybe if i had a single exhaust lol. Itll work for yall and other cars but not for me lol
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:43 PM   #10
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this will work as long as none of the cylinders intake and exhaust valves are in overlap. but if you have overlap at the position the motor stopped at pressure is gonna go right into the exhaust making you think you have a leak.
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