Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Lost crankshaft pulley. Motor will still turn over. Possible damage?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Good news, I was able to get the bolt out with the help of some cobalt drill bits. It's amazing the way these cut through, compared to the cheap Chinesium Harbor Freight ones I have. They might cut through some soft wood or Play-doe, that's about it.



    If this ever happens to you, don't even bother with the ez outs. The metal is just too soft and just flattens out the more you try and tighten them. You can see that on mine below.



    Crank bolt threaded in fine.
    Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-09-2017, 04:11 PM.
    My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
    Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

    My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
    Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

    Comment


      #17
      Good job! Saved yourself a lot of time and money! A quality drill bit is totally worth the price tag.

      And yes, the images are massive. Try using IMGUR's thumbnail options (same URL but with "l" before the ".jpg"

      Code:
      https://i.imgur.com/Sq1cac4l.jpg
      Click Image for CB7Tuner.com Beanies, Decals, & Keychains!

      Comment


        #18
        So now that the bolt is cleared, I have to get my crank and cam back in time. Anyone know the best way to do that without causing potential harm?

        I was thinking it might be best just to remove the rockers and their shafts, fasten the crank pulleys down, rotate it where I want it, and reinstall the rockers.
        My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
        Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

        My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
        Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

        Comment


          #19
          Why not just loosen the adjustment nuts all the way and relieve all the tension? Less time and effort than removing the entire valve train. Unless you need to replace you lower spark plug tube gaskets.
          MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

          Comment


            #20
            I'd do some maintenance stuff while I was at it, such as the lower spark plug gaskets as Rilas suggested.
            That and do some valve lash checking and adjustment too. I mean if you're going to go that far, might as well.
            Click Image for CB7Tuner.com Beanies, Decals, & Keychains!

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Rilas View Post
              Why not just loosen the adjustment nuts all the way and relieve all the tension? Less time and effort than removing the entire valve train. Unless you need to replace you lower spark plug tube gaskets.
              Yes, that was part of my logic, I already have that gasket kit. I'll make sure and check the lash before all is said and done.

              So I've gotten those replaced, and the rocker assembly off and backed out all the adjusters. With the valve lash adjusters out all the way will there be some contact on one of the piston's corresponding rockers when I tighten things down? It looks like cylinder #2 is getting tight. I need to take it off again anyway, I forgot to put the sealer on the ends.
              My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
              Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

              My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
              Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

              Comment


                #22
                Did a little more work disassembling things today. After a long conversation with my newly introduced neighbor who worked as an ASE certified mechanic for years, he says that the motor's probably alright and it's probably not too much of a risk to install the new seals, belts, etc and button everything up. If there was damage, oh well, new motor time.

                It seems the PO must've VERY recently did the belts and replaced the crank seal, but damn...the cam and balance shaft seals just about fell out on their own after a poke with the screwdriver. They were definitely very old. The sparkplug tube seals were replaced as well. Tomorrow, the water pump and a bunch of cleaning on the covers and engine block surfaces. It's friggin filthy!
                Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-11-2017, 11:22 AM.
                My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                Comment


                  #23
                  So I've gotten everything buttoned up after watching Eric The Car Guy's timing belt how-to 20 times and everything is running somewhat smoothly. Upon initial startup afterward, however it appears I've misplaced the bolt that locks down the distributor, and the exhaust seems to have holes in it so it's way louder than I expected. Best news of the day: no CELs!

                  I managed to bleed most of the air out of the coolant system. I was under the impression air in the system would make the idle surge upward and back down, not bog like mine is doing, e.g go down to like 600 RPM and coming back up. I'm aware there's the fitting up on the intake that may become stuck so being low hanging fruit I took the cap off off that and it appears to be seated ok.

                  Could it be my perforated exhaust or that distributor bolt going missing is causing the boggy idle?

                  The PCV and intake filter were both replaced, brand new stock part NGK spark plugs were installed after checking their gap.
                  My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                  Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                  My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                  Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Actually I did find that distributor bolt, it was stuck to the bottom of my magnetic bolt tray The idle is a little better until the system warms up to op temperature, then it starts to bog; just a little bit better.

                    I found this list of things to check from Hondahookup.com. Does this list seem all inclusive of the things I need to check? I've mentioned weather or not I've checked each item.

                    Note, the idle holds a steady 1200rpm or so until it reaches op. temperature.

                    The following items should be checked first:
                    1)Worn, dirty, faulty, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs Checked, good
                    2)Worn/loose distributor cap and/or rotor Checked, missing bolt replaced
                    3)Old spark plug wires Checked, good
                    4)Clogged/dirty air filter Replaced
                    5)Clogged/dirty fuel filter Recently replaced
                    6)Vacuum leak (check all lines, the throttle body gasket, and the intake manifold gasket) Sprayed around the intake manifold with carb cleaner, no changes in idle observed. Intake tube replaced with undamaged unit.
                    7)Vacuum lines not connected properly Checked, ok
                    8)Incorrect ignition timing Not checked
                    9)Air in coolant passages Checked, good


                    If the above items are in good shape, and the problem persists, try these:
                    1)Remove & clean the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. This valve is located on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Checked and cleaned
                    2)Remove & clean the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). This is located on the plenum of the intake manifold. Cleaned and reinstalled
                    3)Remove and clean the throttle body Shot throttle cleaner through it, per can's directions
                    4)Remove, inspect, and clean the Fast Idle Thermo Valve Removed and inspected, found to be damaged - REPLACED - IDLE ISSUE RESOLVED.

                    If the problem is still there:
                    1)Change the primary O2 sensor (Oxygen Sensor)
                    2)Test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
                    3)Check fuel pressure at the rail. If the pressure is below 35psi, check/replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator is good, fuel pump may need replacement.

                    On rare/extreme occasions the following items can also cause idle problems:
                    1)EGR passageways in the head/intake are clogged
                    2)Fuel injectors are dirty/worn
                    3)Mechanical failure/damage in the valvetrain (broken spring, bent valve, etc)
                    4)Poor compression due to worn/broken piston rings
                    5)Valve adjustment too tight
                    Last edited by wtfisafleek; 10-10-2017, 11:21 AM.
                    My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                    Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                    My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                    Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Wow, something useful came from HHU? That's where I got my start, before CB7tuner was a thing. I'm still the moderator of the Accord section.


                      That list is actually quite good. Go by that. If problems persist, I'm sure we can figure out a few more things to check.
                      Just a note, there is no "primary" o2 sensor, technically. There's just one o2 sensor for these cars, so the "primary" is the only. Semantics, really... but some people, especially those that buy cars with an aftermarket header that has two o2 sensor bungs tend to think they're missing a "secondary" o2 sensor and freak out. The various F22A engines have the o2 sensor located in different locations, so generic header companies just put a bung in each location so the item will be universal. (more detail than you need, but hey... I'm a treasure trove of useless knowledge!)

                      On the final list, items 3 and 4 should be evident in a compression test.






                      Comment


                        #26
                        Thanks for responding Deever. I'm going to check the ignition timing at halftime of the noon NFL games. I should mention that my bogging will go away if I give it some throttle, seems to rev pretty smoothly.
                        My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                        Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                        My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                        Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I think I found the problem.


                          It didn't help that the PO slathered it in some kind of grease to aid getting it on. It was all over the place inside.



                          If someone has a spare they can sell me or even knows the part number please let me know.
                          Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-17-2017, 08:03 PM.
                          My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                          Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                          My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                          Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                          Comment


                            #28
                            So after experimenting with the intake tube off, covering up the crack versus just off totally, I don't think this is affecting my idle. I did take the IACV off and clean it with some carb cleaner. It did look ok from the get go but I shot some carb cleaner through it anyway and after reinstalling it didn't seem to make much difference.

                            More importantly, I can definitely hear a distinct hiss right by the firewall on the driver's side after I shut the car off for about 5-10 seconds. Maybe it's something on the intake on that side, I don't know.

                            Almost forgot to mention, it appears someone has been messing with the idle adjustment screw. The putty or goop that normally covers it up was halfway gone. So I go in with a screwdriver to turn it just to check it's condition and ended up turning it in the dark and lost sense of where I started. So I turned it all the way in and backed it out 1.5 turns. Hopefully that's a decent baseline.
                            Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-18-2017, 10:06 PM.
                            My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                            Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                            My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                            Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

                            Comment


                              #29
                              FITV and air boost valve may need examining.

                              The FITV may have deteriorated o-rings. I picked some up from the local auto parts store and rebuilt it.
                              See here:
                              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=207630

                              YouTube Clicky!!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Could always go around with that carb cleaner looking for a vac leak.
                                Click Image for CB7Tuner.com Beanies, Decals, & Keychains!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X