IAB solenoid - where to buy

[aluminum13]

In the process of removing the intake manifold I pulled the electrical connector from the solenoid on the 'black box' and it crumbled into many small pieces. So the solenoid is now wrecked. It screws onto the black box (one screw/bolt) which is undamaged.



Part number 24. Honda part #36163-PT2-004


Online I'm looking at $150 or so depending on the site. This is silly. Where else can I get this thing?

I've tried typing 'iab solenoid' into rockauto and advanceauto but can't find what I'm looking for.

[aluminum13]

Also searched for "Bypass Control Solenoid Valve Assy" and didn't find much. Same part on the Prelude.

Assuming the solenoid is strong enough maybe I can use one off another car...if it's cheaper. Plenty of room under the manifold to mount something...

Looking at the broken part I'm guessing it was broken before I even started, looks like the case cracked and it corroded inside. Lots of threads on wiring these up with shift lights and such mention this part going bad for whatever reason.

[cp[mike]]

Some solenoids are normally open, and close when power is applied. others are normally open, and closed when power is applied. As long as you find the right style solenoid, basically any of them will work.

[aluminum13]

Some solenoids are normally open, and close when power is applied. others are normally open, and closed when power is applied. As long as you find the right style solenoid, basically any of them will work.

That's what I was thinking.

The first post in this thread: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=120077

, member 'lucid' says:

Before I start, I want to go over how the stock system works.
This should help us understand why and how to do this modification.
When the engine is off, the second set of runners is naturally open.
When the engine is on and the rpm is below a set point, the IAB solenoid is energized allowing vacuum from the engine to hold the secondary set of intake runners closed for improved torque and throttle response.
When the higher rpm is reached where more air and shorter runners is desirable, the IAB solenoid should be electrically switched off, allowing the intake to return to it's naturally open state.
The stock signal to open is around 4800rpm, and you definitely won't want to be in VTEC with them closed.
With the following system, you can put the switchover at any rpm you like.

Assuming this is right, this is one is normally on below 4800 rpm, and when on is closed.

I think this Toyota Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) might do the trick, though I'm not sure if when energized if it's closed or open. Has a little filter on it by looks though. I think it's for EGR stuff. Toyota apparently has a few variations of this thing. There is also a Vacuum Control Valve that I think just switch over at a certain set level of vacuum and aren't what I want...

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-604...witching+Valve

Dorman 911-604



This might also be it?

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-612...witching+Valve
Dorman 911-612


EDIT: ahh giant pictures just go to the links...
edit2: links corrected

[Jarrett]

Instead of looking for a new replacement, do you want me to send you a black box and solenoid?

[aluminum13]

Work brought me out to the area around the parts yard, I pulled two black boxes and both solenoids were a corroded looking mess.

I wonder if the typical driver revs their engine high enough to even actuate the valve and they just jam over a few years of disuse.

I'm open to offers on a good unit but am still trying to figure out the toyota unit.

[wagon-r]

I usually use Beaver's Honda Salvage:
http://www.beavershondasalvage.net/

They have everything, ship immediately, and have a good return policy.

[Losiracer2]

is the solenoid for the auto vacuum mount the same?

[aluminum13]

bump?

I wrote ealier: "Assuming this is right, this is one is normally on below 4800 rpm, and when on is closed. "

I think I got that wrong. When the valve is energized the valve is open. Right?

That would mean that the $40 Dorman 911-612 Vacuum Switching Valve would be my bet for a new part.

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-612...witching+valve

is the solenoid for the auto vacuum mount the same?

Hmm I don't know.

According to this article: http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1259

(refering to newer model hondas)

"Typically, the ECM energizes the engine mount solenoid valve by grounding it at idle. When the solenoid is energized, engine vacuum flows through it and down to the motor mount. Applying vacuum to the motor mount puts it into the softer mode. Then the ECM ungrounds (deenergizes) the solenoid above idle. When this happens, the solenoid valve releases the control vacuum through its little vent and the motor mount goes into the firmer mode."

I think that would be the thing I was looking for. Of course now where do I find one of those and how much $$$.

...wait come to think of it I'm planning on swapping in a 5 speed in my auto wagon, so I'll have that part doing nothing for me for free. Assuming I can't use that auto mount with the 5 speed...

Hmm...

[aluminum13]

So I got this EGR solenoid from a Ford and bench tested it, looks like it'll do the trick and only cost $20.

Every single honda solenoid I checked in the junkyard was corroded and many were cracked. I'd bet this is a source of vacuum leaks in a few cb's out there. The Toyota units also seem prone to failure and are expensive.

The ford unit needs a little modification to fit under the runners but it looks more sturdily built overall. I'll grab a harness from the JY. I think they are on a few cars, Mustangs in particular.

Dorman 911-128

[cb7 calling]

is the solenoid for the auto vacuum mount the same?

This is something I have been wondering for a couple weeks. I got a whole subframe/motor/tranny recently and this guy had the auto vacuum mount selenoid hooked to the black box with vacuum lines. I'm like huh? But I may have to do the same thing if it's the only selenoid I have.

[aluminum13]

This is something I have been wondering for a couple weeks. I got a whole subframe/motor/tranny recently and this guy had the auto vacuum mount selenoid hooked to the black box with vacuum lines. I'm like huh? But I may have to do the same thing if it's the only selenoid I have.

There's also the box in the corner of the bay, near the headlight on the passenger side. I Honestly don't know what it does. Very similar.

I checked and the switches on the top of the engine seem to be less screwed up in general in comparison to the IABs which were all messed up.

Easy to test just get a clean tube and hook it up to the two ports. Carefully get some alligator clips and connect to the terminals. With battery connected you should be able to pull a vacuum. A 9 volt battery should operate the valve. It doesn't make an obvious clicking noise or anything when on.

Maybe I'm just happy with the result cause I did the extra research to make it work but the Ford units seem to be built sturdily so I'm happy with it. Basically every newer ford in the JY had one of these on the top of the engine near the EGR. Rangers, Explorers, etc. $5 with harness.

[Qiko]

Great info, I am in the same situation too. Good to know of two options

Did you also use the accord's TANK, VACUUM with the ford explorer egr vacuum solenoid?